Photos show a frame mounted with what I believe is a Campagnolo Athena threaded headset. The frame is a very fancy Ciocc...Columbus Minimax steel tubing. I recently broke a brake cable, so now is the time to make some adjustments I've had on my to do list for quite some time: 1) shorten the fork steerer to appropriate length and 2) replace the Athena headset (works perfectly, but it's cheap looking) with one more befitting the fancy frame (i.e., a C-Record headset...less bulky looking and more attractive finish).

Questions:

1) Am I correct in assuming the fork steerer tube is too long?
2) I've found a local shop that seems to have the proper tools for the job (i.e., the ramrod tool to remove the bottom cup and a slotted collar that screws onto the fork tube which acts as hacksaw guide). Is the task of shortening the fork steerer tube relatively simple? What issues should I watch out for as my mechanic performs the headset removal and fork shortening?
3) The frame's serial number suggests it was manufactured in 1993. Is there any reason that I shouldn't mount a C-Record threaded headset to this frame? Note: The C-Record headset seems to have a much smaller stack height than the Athena. If anything, I think that means the C-Record headset will require even more of the fork tube to be cut off. Might be a silly question, but this is definitely a measure twice, cut once job.

Thanks

I guess since that washer is visible between the lock nut and upper cup you could say the steerer is a little long. The style of HS here draws attention to it, a different HS might look fine with even more spacers stacked there...and that's something to consider: if you trim the steerer to fit one particular (short) stack height, you never get that back again. I don't think it's anything like grossly too long and if the C-Record HS looks OK to you with the spacers required to make it fit, I'd keep this fork uncut. Otherwise, sounds like your LBS has the tools to do this job, if they know how then just ask them to measure THRICE and check the measurements, too, before cutting...and I'd just chamfer the edge with a chamfer tool or file as a last touch.

BUT, I want to see more pics of this Ciocc, never seen a filet-brazed one like this before, and most don't have any serial number.

A couple more pics for a bit more advice. BTW, this is not an "original" build...I acquired the frame in NOS condition three years ago and had it built with NOS Campagnolo C-Record components (except the headset, which an eBay seller misrepresented as C-Record...I later came to realize it is likely Athena). So, a purist could critique this build as comprising 1985-1992 C-Record (7-speed era) components and a 1993 frame (8-speed era).

Also, I understand that the Ciocc name might have been sold a couple times by 1993, putting some distance between this model and its original namesake. Nevertheless, I like the way it looks and in its current configuration, the bike has perfect riding characteristics...I'm not sure whether to attribute that to the wheels (very nice/light rims), or to the Columbus Minimax tubing (maybe it is the ideal tubing for a rider of my size/weight). I didn't even like this frame when I first saw it...but the seller (a bike store owner...former professional(?) racer) said "believe me, if you're looking for old steel, this is the frame for you...take it home, if you don't like it, bring it back." He was right, after I cleaned it off (years of warehouse dust), I began noticing the first rate build quality in the lug work.

To complicate matters as it relates to the issue of cutting down the fork, the fork did not originally come with this frame...I initially rejected the frame because the fork was scratched and the seller was able to quickly procure another identical fork (his ultimate source was a warehouse on the east coast)...so, this fork, while identical in style/design, could have been lifted off of an even larger frame that sat unsold for years in the same warehouse.

Anyway, on to my follow-up questions...you mention a different headset. If this frame was manufactured in 1993, did Campagnolo headsets of that year have larger stack heights? Could this frame have been designed for a headset of different stack height? My familiarity with Campagnolo components ends with 1992...and while I'm leaning towards cutting the fork down, I'm very cognizant of the thesis measure twice (or three times) and cut once. Lastly, back in 1993, was cutting down the fork a common step in frame preparation...just like facing the bottom bracket and head tube and tapping the threads?

It would be standard practice for a framebuilder or factory to make the steerer long enough to accommodate the HS stacks expected to be used, if this Ciocc came with a Campy HS then the shop (I'll guess it might have been Billato by '93) should have trimmed the steerer to fit. If the end user wanted to use a Dura Ace HS (for example), he would either take up the additional length with spacers or have the steerer trimmed. The Campy HS of this style should fit so that spacer/washer is practically hidden in a recess in cup/lock nut.
According to Sutherland's, the stack ht. of C-Record and Record HS are 41.4, the stack ht. of Chorus and Croce are 41.2 and Athena is 41.0, not much difference there and nothing that requires any trimming to switch between any of these models, ATMO. Only some Mavics tend to have taller stacks (46) and a DuraAce can range from 39.7 to 31.0, depending on the model.
Anyhow, that's very nice late-model Ciocc, I think the seller told you right: this may be the pinnacle of lightweight steel frames and one I'd love to ride to see how it compares to my (slightly earlier SL) Ciocc.

I'm curious why you think the Athena HS looks cheap and the C-Record would be a significant upgrade. Since the rest of the build is C-Record, I understand why you want to complete the group (I can be picky that way, too). But to me, the two headsets look very similar. It's not as if Athena was at the bottom of their hierarchy.

I agree I don't think the HS looks bad at all. upgrading is of course up to you but personally if it works I would not fool with it. as for cutting 2 or 3 mm of the fork I don't think it is worth the time.

I'd avoid cutting the fork steerer too if it is not way too long, as you cannot ever get that legnth back in case you ever want to use headsets with a taller stack heights. You can easily buy an aluminum spacer(s) from your LBS to fill in the excess legnth between the top race nut and lock nut. that is what I exactly did on my bike last year when the lock nut on the new headset I installed on it was bottoming out a few mms above the top race. one aluminum heaset spacer from the local PBS later and all was fixed! From the pics, it looks like that is all you will need too.

Chombi

Leave it as is, it looks fine. If anything, buy a headset with a shorter stack height. Look on the bright side, at least the stack height is not too short.

The other thing you could do is find a spacer with a nice polished finished, and it would not be as noticeable.

Agreed - except that I don't think the OP would be cutting off 2-3 mm. More like less than 1mm. Not worth the trouble and risk of screwing things up IMO. It ain't a museum piece, it's a bike - RIDE IT!

SP
Bend, OR

Thanks for all the responses...I really want the bike to be all C-Record and my familarity with the components has now developed to the point where I can spot a non-C-Record headset from a mile away. However, I don't want to screw it up, because I ride this bike and I readily admit that the "Athena" headset is fully functional.

Does anyone have direct/extensive experience with fork cutting? What are the odds of "screwing things up"? Is it a tricky process?