Kinda bummed out...
#1
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Hump, what hump?


Joined: Dec 2003
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From: SC midlands
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Kinda bummed out...
about my Campy brake set. 
Long story short, I got overconfident and bid on a set of used Chorus brakes. Showed up with no barrel adjusters and a frozen, stripped out cable anchor bolt on the front brake (which explains the crappy photos with the listing.)
Today I tried to free the bolt by cutting a slot across the top, to go at it with a flathead screwdriver. No joy. Thinking the bolt may be frozen to the plate, I attacked the seam between them. Now the aluminum plate has apparently fused with the bolt.
At least the rear brake works and is in good shape. I can always try to find another front brake.
I'll get over it. Just needed to vent.

Long story short, I got overconfident and bid on a set of used Chorus brakes. Showed up with no barrel adjusters and a frozen, stripped out cable anchor bolt on the front brake (which explains the crappy photos with the listing.)
Today I tried to free the bolt by cutting a slot across the top, to go at it with a flathead screwdriver. No joy. Thinking the bolt may be frozen to the plate, I attacked the seam between them. Now the aluminum plate has apparently fused with the bolt.

At least the rear brake works and is in good shape. I can always try to find another front brake.
I'll get over it. Just needed to vent.
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
#2
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That sucks
#5
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Hump, what hump?


Joined: Dec 2003
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From: SC midlands
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Well, that's a thought I had not considered. Guess I could auction the barrel adjusters separately. Lol
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
#7
Thread Starter
Hump, what hump?


Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,963
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From: SC midlands
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No, I have not. I'm not sure it's a corrosion issue, but I'm willing to try. What would you recommend?
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
#8
acid does the trick. Park tools assert that even coke will get rid of it, but I wouldn't take any chances (plus it's sticky) and go for something more potent from the chemical cabinet. Be careful though, acid will also remove the finish of the brakes (the anodizing is actually nothing more than controlled and sealed corrosion), so don't dunk the entire unit in. If the problem is a deformed bolt you're out of luck.
#9
Thread Starter
Hump, what hump?


Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,963
Likes: 305
From: SC midlands
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acid does the trick. Park tools assert that even coke will get rid of it, but I wouldn't take any chances (plus it's sticky) and go for something more potent from the chemical cabinet. Be careful though, acid will also remove the finish of the brakes (the anodizing is actually nothing more than controlled and sealed corrosion), so don't dunk the entire unit in. If the problem is a deformed bolt you're out of luck.
__________________
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
#10
vinegar works, from what I've gathered from threads on stuck seat posts/stems (also a problem of galvanic corrosion) most people here use lye. Lemon juice should be potent enough too.
#11
Thread Starter
Hump, what hump?


Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,963
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From: SC midlands
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I'm gonna try lemon - that should be appropriate! lol
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
#13
Actually, if your parts in question are made of
aluminum alloy, household ammonia should work well.
But you said Anchor bolt? I'd try one of the penetrant
oils like PB Blaster on anything steel that's threaded.
This is what I use, so it must be the only thing that will work.

aluminum alloy, household ammonia should work well.
But you said Anchor bolt? I'd try one of the penetrant
oils like PB Blaster on anything steel that's threaded.
This is what I use, so it must be the only thing that will work.
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