seypat

I just carry my frames into Michaels when I need to match up touch up paint. Lately though, I haven't been touching up. I just put on some rust stopper/primer then some clear nail polish as a sealer.

seypat

How many years was the Salmon color offered? Was it only used on the Terry model? That color is tops to me at the moment.

texaspandj

Too late. Im already half way thru the rebuild. I wonder if they'll let me roll my bike in.
Well, admittedly I don't have the patience/skill Those other builders have. So I normally would do what you do, however too much rust spots.
I'll check out Michaels. Thanks for the tip.

RobbieTunes

I actually think there is a non-Terry salmon model on this thread, somewhere, but it's something like 48 or 50cm. I've never seen a larger model in that color.

texaspandj

+1
And here is one. They have it listed as a 24 inch front wheel, but the head tube would be bigger if that was the case.

Centurion Ironman Expert Dave Scott Tange 1 Shimano 105 Missing Front Wheel' | eBay

texaspandj

Here's one with the smaller front wheel. Check out the headtube.
Vintage centurion ironman 47cm dave scott signature road bike

seypat

I think you all are right. All of the images I find are small frames. Even if the front wheel is regular sized, the frames are still tiny.

attylah

Well, I've seen dogs in the store, so why not bikes? They don't poop on the floor and won't bite anybody.

Thanks for the paint help all, I will be taking my frame in to Michaels and see what I can come up with.

Now, on to the stem. What diameter stem do I need to shop for? I need a seatpost too, I know that those are 27mm. I would love to find an aero model as I'm building this up as a tri bike, but damn, the aero's are expensive.

fleslider 

According to the catalog the Womens Ironman Expert came in two sizes a 46cm and a 48cm

the 46cm has the 24" front wheel and 700c wheel in the back
the 48cm has the 700c wheel front and back

texaspandj

Someone will,correct me if I'm wrong, but a 1" quill for the stem. The tough part is getting the correct length for yourself.
In my experience the 86,and 87 take a 27.2 seatpost no problem. The 88s take a little more pressure to go in, however they still also accept 27.2 I tell you this because the 27.2 aero is cheaper and easier to find than the 27.0
I have 5 or 6 CIM and two are tri bikes. Everyone is different on their setup. And you obviously have experience in this area.

texaspandj

Christmas morning I rode my 88 yellow fade with regular road bars. A shortish 25 mile jaunt. It made me compare my 88 tri to it. The most obvious difference was the handlebars. Second was the gear ratio.
I have two CIM I have set up as tri bikes both use the original scott dh aero bars. When they first came out even the triathlon pros didn't want to use them. But a couple of second tier pros did and went on a one or two month unbeaten streak. So naturally the other pros soon followed and then finally us age groupers. We saw the pros using them and bam, we had to have them. I grew up on them so to speak so they're totally comfortable for me. They look funny at first,then they look beautiful in their ingenuity. The most successful triathlete to use them was Mike Pigg. He would sit at the nose tip of the saddle and hammer like no one else on the planet. He used regular italian geometry bikes, but in a way invented his own tri geometry. I'll explain the best I can. If you're riding your regular road bike. If you were to put your elbows on the top bar of you handlebars, you body will be way too far forward. Well that's exactly what the aero bars would do, so you move your butt forward to compensate. So triathletes started moving their saddles forward, when that wasn't enough they reversed their seatpost. That's when they invented forward seatpost. They discovered a few added benefits to the forward position along the way : 1. It simulated running more so therefore when they got off the bike they were able to transition to the running motion quicker. 2. It made you use your quads more, and thereby create much more power.
Everyone knows the benefits to being more aero but some things that triathletes discovered that made these better than riding the drops or using bull horn handlebars : 1. Putting your elbows closer together, created a wedge that really helped you slice thru the wind. 2. Being stretched out in the prone position (basically lying down) allowed you to rest somewhat and work at a lower heartrate. Which in turn kept you fresher for the run.3. Your arms being stretched out allowed your lungs to expand more easily than being in the drops.
Although I moved my saddle forward, Personally I never used a forward seatpost. I like the different positions I can use by not being too far forward. I can ride the tops,I can ride the drops,and I can ride the hoods, and when I really want to go, I scoot a little more forward in the saddle. They're my favorite and the original. This is what I'm talking about.
Scott 3TTT Triathlon Handlebars Vintage TT Aero Italy DH | eBay
Sidenote : Back in the day I only had one bike and it had these bars. But I wouldn't ride in the aero position when I rode with the bike club. Not because it was dangerous or I wasn't stable but because I felt like I was cheating. But when it was my turn to take a pull, I'd get in the aero position inch to the front tip of the saddle and with the same amount of effort go about 1 mph faster.
Sleepy somewhat coherent ramble over.

RobbieTunes

The more things change, the more they stay the same....

attylah

Thanks for that tex. I will be using the Scott DH aerobars as well. They are a 22.2 diameter, I plan on using shims to bring it to 25.4 and use a riser stem such as a dirt drop. Do you happen to have any photos of your configuration? I am forgoing the bridge and installing ultegra 8 speed bar end shifters in the bars - they will have some flex, I know, but I don't mind that.

texaspandj

My 86 classic has down tube shifters. My 88 has 7 speed gripshift.
When you asked about dimensions I thought you meant quill size. I see you meant bar diameter size.

attylah

I had wanted to do the grip shifters originally myself, but just couldn't find any. And, I have this spare set of bar end shifters lying around, so that seemed to be my logical way to proceed. Thanks for the pics!

texaspandj

I had bar end shifters on a tri bike and they worked great.
As far as the flex, it only seems to flex enough to make bad roads tolerable. If the roads are too rough I'll be in the drops anyway. I generally try to allow my upper body to be as relaxed as possible while in the aero position, and just let my legs work hard, and flex never comes into play.
Oh the original dh bars didn't need a shim. Then another company took over and they came with a shim. My 86 didn't need a shim, but my 88 needed one. So I cut a lone star beer can, found out while riding it wasn't enough. Got home and I cut a Dr Pepper can and added it now it's staying.
I know one thing those MV are fast. My 56 cm really impressed me with how fast it is. Which is part of the reason I'm in such a hurry to rebuild my 54cm. However it's staying a road bike. Pics coming soon.

texaspandj

Here's my 54cm 87 Miami Vice. Used the cable housing, brake levers, headset,crankset,front and rear derailleur that came with it. Also same still stuck seatpost.
I had to use handlebars, cables,wrap,pedals,brake calipers,chain from my stash. Wheels and saddle are a trade from RobbieTunes.
Overhauled hubs,headset and bottom bracket. Note: Initially I had put the plastic bearings cage retainer wrong side up on top and bottom and it would tighten the steering yet the forks move back and forth within the headtube. So it was tight yet loose, a real conundrum.
The saddle is too high will try a lower profile saddle before hack saw.
Shake down ride scheduled for tomorrow.

jetboy 

looks good texaspandj! that post is so high i bet you might have a chance of pulling it out without hacking. once it moves then its going to come out-- so one thing you can do is not pull it, but whack at it with a rubber hammer to push it down. you can get much more force that way and break it free. and even if it stays frozen up a bit you can maybe whack it down till it fits.

RobbieTunes

Looks fast sitting still. No doubt many more recent saddles out there would be significantly lower.

triitout

DSCN1009

Took the maiden voyage ride before dark to end the year on a high note. Didn't touch a thing. Once I got the fork thread straightened out, the fun began. Only thing left to do is put on the white alloy bottle cages when they get here. My optimal size is 58cm c-c but now that I've got my contact points all figured out, it seems that the 60cm c-c is just fine. Felt at home right away. Happy New Year to all!

texaspandj....your bike is looking good!

RT, the Kestrel has been banished to the shed and retired. After 10 years of riding/racing tri's on it, I can say it was the worst handling, coolest looking, fastest bike I 've owned. I remember watching Wendy Ingram in Hawaii killing it on the kona blue color. I went for the fire engine red. It nearly killed me with some bad crashes and I'm not sure about a crack line through the seat post area if it's just the paint or the tube. Funny how 650 wheels disappeared too.

texaspandj

Dang! Triitout I like it. How bout some details on componentry? What is original to bike?
I was supposed to ride my MV yesterday ,but tweaked my knee playing with my grandson. So l also rode a short ten miler maiden voyage today. I switched my saddle to a low profile one it worked perfectly, albeit a half inch higher. No problem. It was cold low 50s. Last week it was low 70s. The first thing that jumped out at me was the tracking. Exceptionally stable. I will be switching the white saddle I used today with a same model black one. But other than that, It's Done. Very comfortable, great century bike for sure.

triitout

Thank you for the kind words texaspandj. Take care of that knee! So here's the deal. Stem, bars, brake levers, pedals, front derailluer, brakes and seat post are all original as spec'd....Nitto and 105 group. I think the rear RD was replaced to a newer index 105 model. I had 2010 Mavic Ksyrium Equipe 130mm/100mm wheels handy after an upgrade on another bike so on they went. Vittoria Corsa Evo-KS tires are new. Had a Shimano 600 Biopace crankset in the parts bin in much newer shape than the 105 and at 170mm vs the stock 175mm I opted for the switch. Used a 4.5 mm spacer on the wheel with a Shimano 7 speed cassette 13-28 and a new Shimano 7/8 speed chain. I found the required Shimano 1055 7 speed index down tube shifters on ebay. Nashbar saddle (love 'em, on all my modern bikes) and white cork tape. Brake hoods are the ill fitting but readily available 1055 black ones. Not willing to pay through the nose for NOS 105's in white. New cables and grease on the headset and BB. Found NOS toe clips for the missing ones and some nice nylon straps in white. Just waiting on alloy white bottle cages to finish it up. I wish I had this bike when I was younger and "zippier"!

T-Mar

Correct, the rear derailleur is not the original New 105 model, which had black parallelogram arms. The saddle is another obvious replacement.

texaspandj

WOW. Welcome back. The legend has returned. Happy New Year.

texaspandj

It's baaaack. The 89 with exceptional colors for a CIM. After my initial call, I texted her three questions. Were there holes on the seat tube, what was the serial numbers, and to give me ctc measurements. She didn't respond, tried calling still no response. Then I noticed she pulled CL ad.
Then seypat asked about an update. So I called again and she answered. However it was during the interloper melee. And I forgot to get back.
BTW I wrote all answers down and have misplaced it. But what I remember is they weren't holes but sticker residue, the serial number had a 9 for 89, and it measured out a 60cm I think. Oh I forgot, I asked to text a pic of the head badge. Either way, I love this color. I if it was a 54cm I'd get it , No question.
Fixed gear Centurion bike 62cm