jeepr: Thank you, your insight is spot on. Longer rides do cause numbness in my hands (over fifty miles) on the SS. The Trek was specifically purchased for the over 30 mile rides. With all information gleaned from this, the Trek will get every consideration before sending it on it's way. Thanks again!

Maybe this works...

I would get a zero offset post (say Thomson) and center/level the saddle. Play with the setback from there. Check your position in relation to the bars and try rail position and saddle height (from BB center) until you get the best results. Mess with the bar-saddle position on the flat (easy in ChiTown) and the bb-saddle on incline efforts.

Good luck...

A few things can be seen from the images. Your Super Sport is set up more like a Rivendell than a typical road bike. I would not be able to tolerate that saddle tilt, some of it's adjustment may come from the high handlebar position. I find it interesting that you comment that on the Schwinn your hands can go numb, at least for how the bike is set up in the photographs.

I missed that the Trek has Dyna-Drive pedals. I have one bike with that crank/pedal set. It made setting up the position a bit of a trick, compared to measure-copy of my other bikes. To get the advantage out of those pedals you need cleated cycling shoes with as thin/stiff a sole and cleat as possible. The whole concept was to get the ball of your foot close to the pedal rotation center. For reference Alexi Grewal used that type of crank to win the '84 Olympic road race. You need straps for these pedals. They cause you to pedal a bit differently, not bad or good, just different. The ball of your foot has to be right at the pedal rotation center in plan view, the toe clips adjust so that can happen as long as you have typical sized feet. Finding alternate sized toe clips for these pedals is a lucky or hopeless search, they were made.

Shimano, way back by the way suggested one use a frame 2 cm smaller than what they would normally ride with these pedals at work. They lower your center of gravity just a bit too. And "raise" the top tube the same amount, when compared to how you have the Schwinn set up, a good thing.

From the diversity of the two bikes, I would consider searching for a shop that has a competent guy who can fit you to the Trek, and comment on the Schwinn.
An "off-bike" set of eyes I think is needed here.

Should you not like the Dyna Drive pedals, Shimano did make an adapter to insert and have typical 9/16" pedal holes.

I'd agree that you need to learn some basic mechanics - a big part of cycling, IMO, is understanding how it works. If you are "pounding asphalt" and don't understand something simple like brake adjustment you might end up pounding your head on the asphalt waiting for your ride. You don't need to adjust the BB or anything, but basic mechanical skills will serve you well.

Nice grab on the Trek though. I secOnd figuring out your fit before you spend money on bling. You can make it fit and then invest your pennies in cool pieces when you know what you need. I'd also sell the crankset and get something else.

The two bikes are clearly different sizes. I have owned both, in the same sizes. The Schwinn is a 24" in name only. The extended seat lug is what makes it a 24" frame. Schwinn measured center to top. It is really on par w/ a 56cm. The Trek is a true 24" and will feel bigger because it is bigger. The Schwinn has a top tube length of 56cm (IIRC) and I know the Trek has a top tube length of 58cm.

Looking at how the Schwinn is set-up, it is more than likely on the small side for you. BTW, how tall are you? I am 6'1" and ride 60cm frames, FWIW. My advice is to start riding the Trek as is. Making minor adjustments as you ride it. Even if you are not mechanically inclined, adjusting stem height, handlebar rotation and saddle height all involve loosening & tightening one bolt per item. You can do that without any help.

In addition, the Schwinn has randoneurring handle bars on it which sweep up & back towards the rider. The Trek has traditional drop bars. They will always feel farther away than the Rando bars, because the reach is different.

If the Trek is truly the right size (kinda looks like it fromt the pics) it is where you should focus your attention going forward. No disrespect intended but it is a better bike in most every aspect and will do almost everything better than the SS. I know folks here love the fillet brazed Schwinn's but if you are actually going to ride it, the Trek is a better bike.

Yes Bianchigirll came to the same conclusion. Thanks custermustache I will begin moving in that direction.


[/QUOTE]I'd also sell the crankset and get something else.[/QUOTE]

A decision about the Dyna Drive crankset could be made once it's 'keeper' status is determined, right? Or does it play substantially into initial fit? As repenchage states it compounds setup, so take it out of the equation early?

Snorkel has been purchased, short periscope is on back order! :lol:

Thanks fender1:

The Schwinn is a 24" in name only. The Trek is a true 24" and will feel bigger because it is bigger.
True and succinctly stated, honestly that's what it feels like too.

how tall are you?
I'm probably height challenged for a 60cm bike, 5' 11" and change.
That's the nut right there, this bikes to big for me?

To get it to go it will require the following and then some:
Zero offset seat post, (stashing the DA it comes with).
Taller stem with appropriate extension, (stashing the DA it comes with).
Possibly swap conventional handlebars for Rando bars.
Possibly swap out Dyna-Drive crank/pedal set,(stashing the DA it comes with).


if you are actually going to ride it, the Trek is a better bike.
Yes, wholly agree with you. It wouldn't become the commuter.

As Biancigirll noted someone loved this Trek. I want to express my gratitude to all who've contributed to my education. :thumb: