I’m pleading guilty…
 

In the C&V court of public opinion I’m pleading guilty to several counts of I don’t know what I’m doing. (Will this bike be staying or going? You decide.)

On my behalf I did what I was trained to do. I got in the car and drove immediatly. Not once but twice. On the second trip an ’81 Trek 710 came home with me. It test rode very well. Here’s where the lunacy picks up velocity. The bike doesn’t fit. It’s a 24” frame, the daily driven ’72 Schwinn Super Sport is also a 24” frame. The SS fits like a glove, gets used pounding out asphalt on the commute.

First thing the Trek goes into the LBS for a brake tune, (gotta be safe). Their immediately blowing smoke, is that a museum piece? Jeez it’s older than me. The owner isn’t working but the lead mechanic with 22 years on the job is. His prognoses ride the bike and get acclimated to it. He feels like the frame isn’t too large, you can change the stem and seat post to get her dialed in. Okay basic plan, easy goals, procure stem with shorter extension. Haha this frame was built with Dura-ace bits. Along with a Campy FD and Dia Compe AC250g brake levers.

A stem candidate gets sold at auction for $162.00:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-DURA...#ht_500wt_1059

I participated up to a point. As this is being written another candidate, “Shimano 1980's 80mm DURA-ACE Retro stem, HIDDEN BOLT,” is bid at $82.00. What’s really needed is a DA stem with a 70mm extension. Hens tusks I tell ya!

So some options, spend $55-70 for a Nitto Technomics Forged Aluminum Stem, 60-70mm. Which isn’t vintage but might get me driving it. Along with finding a DA zero offset seat post? Is there such a thing? If it’s a keeper ideally the shifters move from the down tube to the barends. At this point in the exercise I’m confident the bike could be sold now, netting a scratch. The meter is currently at $260.00.

This bike rally glides! But if I can’t get it dialed in at a reasonable price one of you lucky ducks is going to get stuck with it. What’s your verdict senators?
Please run down my options as you see them.

so... is the top tube too long?

seems like an easy one to solve. just measure your SS and compare it to your trek.

you can find a nice stem for less than $50. the same goes for a seatpost.

I've got a nice Cinelli 80 mm stem. If interested get in touch.

J

Lots of stems cheaper on fleebay, just buy one to fit out the bike to dial it in. Some use an ugly adjustable stem to get an idea of the right parts before spending the big bucks. You shouldn't have to have Dura Ace or Nitto to make the bike look and ride nice, but I do understand the idea of a full matching groupo and parts.

No, (I don't think so, ((ignorance)) the Trek tt is 57.5cm, which compares with 57.2 on the Schwinn SS. The stem on the SS is approximately 76mm, the Trek is 100mm, but the SS stem is pulled up higher. The drop of the handlebar is even with the top tube on the SS. It's lower on the Trek.

Thanks, I'm reluctant in a sense, is this bike what you guys call a keeper? If so, then that's the way to proceed.


Thanks, dial it in cheap then keep a look out for matching parts.

Thanks, I'll happily keep that in mind. 80mm might be to long.

Whats the STA? I wouldn't imagine you would need a stem anymore than 20mm (2cm) shorter...

Hi, I know VERY little, but from looking all summer for a nice 80's Trek, I know this; in Minneapolis that bike could easily fetch $350-450. Nice bike!

buldogge: this is the remedial class, who's a STA? :o

Hi, I know VERY little, but from looking all summer for a nice 80's Trek, I know this; in Minneapolis that bike could easily fetch $350-450. Nice bike!--scotjonscot

Thanks, the Trek should be good for the longer trips. Sledge the asphalt pounding SS just take so much effort on the over fifty mile rides. It still has the "Ashtabula" in service.

scotjonscot the folks here at C&V are very generous with their talents!

Definitely a keeper, but only if it fits you.

Mark:

Is seat tube angle for a Trek 710 here?

http://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...1Trek3_150.jpg

That is the rub. :eek: Now I think I know where the STA goes but what has it done for me lately? :o

http://ruedatropical.com/2009/03/roa...-bar-geometry/

Sometimes selecting a bar with less reach can help too.

Also you could try raising the levers a smidge if you ride mostly on the hoods.

That's a lot of bike for what you have in it. I'd be trying to make it work too.

Nice bike. I hadn't heard of this Dura Ace stem before but it looks and sounds awesome. In case anyone else was interested:

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/stems.asp



My vote would go for a Nitto Technomic and just keep the original seatpost (I doubt there was a zero setback dura ace seatpost of that vintage). Actually, I'm cheap so my real vote would be for using a cheap, short stem found in plentiful supply (for example, an SR 60 or 70 or something) to get the bike set up so you can ride it for a while and find out if you actualy like it.

If you don't like it, swap the original stem back on and sell it and you're only out the cost of bar tape. If you do like it, take your time to find a suitable quality replacement in the right length while you have a ride-able bike.

Thanks for the Road drop Bar link, very informative. I primarily ride in the drops, but I'm use to the drop being even with the top tube if that makes sense.

Just my opinion, but if you can stand over the top bar without crushing your jewels, you should be able to get a good fit on the bike. There is always the exception with someone that has very long legs or torso. Measure from the seat to the bars on the SS, then the Trek and see how different the measurements are. The riding position is different on the bikes though, so I wouldn't try and get them exact. I would be more concerned with where the crank is located relative to the seat. If you move the saddle too far forward, too much pressure is put on your arms, it's fatiguing and they go numb on longer rides. You should be able to sit on the bike (with your feet on the pedals) and lift your hands off the bars without undue stress to stay upright. The Trek is a very nice bike, but you will probably have to get used to a more aggressive riding style to keep it. I would get it close and ride it before sending it on it's way.

Thanks, your cheapness was what I was counting on. Trying to balance being a good steward for this bike and deciding how much to spend getting it dialed in vs uh oh bought the bike, bought extra parts doesn't fit now the project is under water. I think I ran a stop sign in that last sentence.

Get a snorkel and small periscope and you'll be fine.

A keeper is something you like, want to keep, and like to ride. Keep the take-off parts as you swap parts to get it dialed in to your size. If it does turn out to be a flipper and not a keeper you can always put the original parts back onto it before you send it to it's next owner. That way you'll have parts available for the next time an almost close enough fit bike comes along.

OK, I know earlier I said I'd be trying to make it fit, but that was before coffee.

You got a great deal on the package. I would give serious thought to stripping the parts and either selling the frame, or trading it on the 'frame doesn't fit' thread.

Just sayin. I believe the upper end Treks were often sold as framesets anyway.

Yeah...24" has a 73.5* STA...but...I have no idea what your Schwinn has...but it would need to be at least 1* difference to make any real difference.

You're prince, I never learned the laws of sines to well. :twitchy:
Thanks for getting back to me.

The SS appears to have roughly a 73* STA, right in the ballpark.

if your trying to make the bike fit, don't get hung up on a fancy stem to match. buy something that is reasonably priced and fits, then wrap the DA stem in a towel and same it for when and if you sell this great looking trek.

If I may suggest this, stop going to your LBS for simple brake adjustments. there must be dozens of C&V guys and gals near you and perhaps you can get a lesson for the price of a sixer of Ale.

beautiful bike but (yes I am being snarky) why the Craigslist pic? LOL

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...1&d=1316141439

how about a nice pic of the drive side?

if the tape is for the brake caliper it may be a tad high

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...3&d=1316141503

a DA seat post too? somebody loved this baby

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...9&d=1316141374

Schwinn 24" Super Sports frames ride "small". The seat tube to top tube angle is I am pretty sure slacker than the Trek. Cut a pc. of cardboard to fit one and I bet it will not be the same as the other frame. I also think as mentioned earlier that the top tube center of the head tube to center of the seat tube on the Schwinn is shorter but I think more than stated. As both bikes do not most likely have the same saddle you will need a second person to assist in measuring while you are on the bike. I would get the saddle position set first, assuming the Schwinn is good. (It is at least what you are used to) Cranks at 3-9 o'clock position, plumb bob off the front face of the knee and past the foot on the pedal, take note and set the other bike up by saddle height and fore aft by your knee over the pedal relationship. with that set the same, then measure your upper pelvis bone, even placing a pc. of tape on you with a sharpie X at that point and measure the distance to the bars on both. This will get you basically to a point of understanding where the bikes differ with you set up in relation to the cranks the same. There may be variations, such as in crank length, but this is used bike territory.

If you cannot get the saddle on the Trek set up the same then it may not be for you. Or, your position on the Schwinn is "wrong" but you have adapted to it. I have seen this often. If that's the case it may not be worth moving it, tell tale signs for me that a position is "wrong" can go to riding style, big gear mashing will push a position one way often, or a tilted seat, anything beyond a few degrees off level indicates a solution to discomfort problem that should be addressed by other means.

What diameter is the handlebar? I have a 70mm Cinelli stem that is 26.0, I believe, surplus to my needs. If you need it, I'll pass it along for what I paid, which was pretty cheap (clamp bolt is not original).

[QUOTE=Bianchigirll;13242520]if your trying to make the bike fit, don't get hung up on a fancy stem to match. buy something that is reasonably priced and fits, then wrap the DA stem in a towel and same it for when and if you sell this great looking trek.

BG, thanks that seems to be the growing consensus.

If I may suggest this, stop going to your LBS for simple brake adjustments. there must be dozens of C&V guys and gals near you and perhaps you can get a lesson for the price of a sixer of Ale.

Yes understood, I've been leaving my signature off, :innocent:. Conversely they did supply me with some interesting insights about this bike. It has a unique crank set. In that the Shimano engineers were attempting to gain greater efficient transfer of power from legs to the drive train? Anyway regular pedals do not fit these arms. Then there's the stem. Which mainstreetexile points out is awesome, but awesome comes at a premium, so it seems. LOL


beautiful bike but (yes I am being snarky) why the Craigslist pic? LOL
A. You don't miss a trick, yes those were the sellers pics, how did you know?
B. Reread my plea agreement, if it requires an amendment for 'wingnut' I'll plead to that too.
C. BG your snark is whole heartily welcomed. As it is of all the C&V posters. :thumb:

if the tape is for the brake caliper it may be a tad high
Yes there is tape on the downtube in the pic but not present when purchased.

a DA seat post too? somebody loved this baby
Yes, yes someone did love this one. Hence my really trying to be a good steward, (I don't know of a better way to express it). Fit or no fit I won't be the guy parting this one out. Per the CL seller, who BTW didn't look like this bike fit at all. The original owner was an employee of Trek.

That is very generous, thanks! The Cinelli bars require a 26.0 clamp on the the stem. Thanks again.

The seat tube to top tube angle is I am pretty sure slacker than the Trek.
Per buldogge, the STA on the Trek is 73.5 deg. A very rough measurement of the SS comes in at 73 deg STA.

I also think as mentioned earlier that the top tube center of the head tube to center of the seat tube on the Schwinn is shorter but I think more than stated.
You're correct, the Trek is 57.5cm, the SS is 56.5cm.

Or, your position on the Schwinn is "wrong" but you have adapted to it.

This could very well be true, hence the trip to the LBS too. The stem on the SS is raised quite a bit. The drop (very bottom) of the bars is even with the top tube. I'll get pics of both bikes like chuckk recommended.

tell tale signs for me that a position is "wrong" can go to riding style, big gear mashing will push a position one way often, or a tilted seat, anything beyond a few degrees off level indicates a solution to discomfort problem that should be addressed by other means.

The SS is a daily commuter. I'm in the habit of starting up @ 61 GI, while standing. Once my butt hits the saddle, its shift to 67 GI. Get that spun up, shift to 74 GI then 83 GI. Hands most comfortable in the drops. A pic'll be worth 1k of me trying to splain it.