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I’m pleading guilty…
10 Attachment(s)
In the C&V court of public opinion I’m pleading guilty to several counts of I don’t know what I’m doing. (Will this bike be staying or going? You decide.)
On my behalf I did what I was trained to do. I got in the car and drove immediatly. Not once but twice. On the second trip an ’81 Trek 710 came home with me. It test rode very well. Here’s where the lunacy picks up velocity. The bike doesn’t fit. It’s a 24” frame, the daily driven ’72 Schwinn Super Sport is also a 24” frame. The SS fits like a glove, gets used pounding out asphalt on the commute. First thing the Trek goes into the LBS for a brake tune, (gotta be safe). Their immediately blowing smoke, is that a museum piece? Jeez it’s older than me. The owner isn’t working but the lead mechanic with 22 years on the job is. His prognoses ride the bike and get acclimated to it. He feels like the frame isn’t too large, you can change the stem and seat post to get her dialed in. Okay basic plan, easy goals, procure stem with shorter extension. Haha this frame was built with Dura-ace bits. Along with a Campy FD and Dia Compe AC250g brake levers. A stem candidate gets sold at auction for $162.00: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-DURA...#ht_500wt_1059 I participated up to a point. As this is being written another candidate, “Shimano 1980's 80mm DURA-ACE Retro stem, HIDDEN BOLT,” is bid at $82.00. What’s really needed is a DA stem with a 70mm extension. Hens tusks I tell ya! So some options, spend $55-70 for a Nitto Technomics Forged Aluminum Stem, 60-70mm. Which isn’t vintage but might get me driving it. Along with finding a DA zero offset seat post? Is there such a thing? If it’s a keeper ideally the shifters move from the down tube to the barends. At this point in the exercise I’m confident the bike could be sold now, netting a scratch. The meter is currently at $260.00. This bike rally glides! But if I can’t get it dialed in at a reasonable price one of you lucky ducks is going to get stuck with it. What’s your verdict senators? Please run down my options as you see them. |
so... is the top tube too long?
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seems like an easy one to solve. just measure your SS and compare it to your trek.
you can find a nice stem for less than $50. the same goes for a seatpost. |
I've got a nice Cinelli 80 mm stem. If interested get in touch.
J |
Lots of stems cheaper on fleebay, just buy one to fit out the bike to dial it in. Some use an ugly adjustable stem to get an idea of the right parts before spending the big bucks. You shouldn't have to have Dura Ace or Nitto to make the bike look and ride nice, but I do understand the idea of a full matching groupo and parts.
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Originally Posted by Puget Pounder
(Post 13233407)
so... is the top tube too long?
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Originally Posted by Alan Edwards
(Post 13233461)
Lots of stems cheaper on fleebay, just buy one to fit out the bike to dial it in. Some use an ugly adjustable stem to get an idea of the right parts before spending the big bucks. You shouldn't have to have Dura Ace or Nitto to make the bike look and ride nice, but I do understand the idea of a full matching groupo and parts.
Originally Posted by illwafer
(Post 13233430)
seems like an easy one to solve. just measure your SS and compare it to your trek.
you can find a nice stem for less than $50. the same goes for a seatpost. |
Thanks, I'll happily keep that in mind. 80mm might be to long.
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Whats the STA? I wouldn't imagine you would need a stem anymore than 20mm (2cm) shorter...
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Hi, I know VERY little, but from looking all summer for a nice 80's Trek, I know this; in Minneapolis that bike could easily fetch $350-450. Nice bike!
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Originally Posted by buldogge
(Post 13233575)
Whats the STA? I wouldn't imagine you would need a stem anymore than 20mm (2cm) shorter...
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Hi, I know VERY little, but from looking all summer for a nice 80's Trek, I know this; in Minneapolis that bike could easily fetch $350-450. Nice bike!--scotjonscot
Thanks, the Trek should be good for the longer trips. Sledge the asphalt pounding SS just take so much effort on the over fifty mile rides. It still has the "Ashtabula" in service. scotjonscot the folks here at C&V are very generous with their talents! |
Definitely a keeper, but only if it fits you.
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Originally Posted by Puget Pounder
(Post 13233714)
Definitely a keeper, but only if it fits you.
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http://ruedatropical.com/2009/03/roa...-bar-geometry/
Sometimes selecting a bar with less reach can help too. Also you could try raising the levers a smidge if you ride mostly on the hoods. That's a lot of bike for what you have in it. I'd be trying to make it work too. |
Originally Posted by ChicAgo steel
(Post 13233303)
A stem candidate gets sold at auction for $162.00:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-DURA...#ht_500wt_1059 I participated up to a point. As this is being written another candidate, “Shimano 1980's 80mm DURA-ACE Retro stem, HIDDEN BOLT,” is bid at $82.00. What’s really needed is a DA stem with a 70mm extension. Hens tusks I tell ya! So some options, spend $55-70 for a Nitto Technomics Forged Aluminum Stem, 60-70mm. Which isn’t vintage but might get me driving it. Along with finding a DA zero offset seat post? http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/stems.asp Beautifully finished road stem with hidden binder bolt. These were made by Nitto around 1983 or so. Undoubtedly the most beautiful road stem ever made. For 1" threaded steerers. 26.0mm handlebar clamp diameter. 11cm, 12cm and 13cm available in Ultegra only. The Ultegra stem is identical, except for the steel expander wedge, and Ultegra name on the front. See below. There is a cap at the top rear of the stem. You remove the cap with a 6mm allen wrench (not supplied). With the cap removed you can adjust the handlebar clamp by inserting the allen wrench through the hole horizontally. You'll need an allen wrench that's about six inches long. To tighten or loosen the stem in the steerer, just insert the wrench vertically to adjust the expander wedge at the bottom. It's a wonderful piece of engineering that eliminates the usual exposed bolt for the handlebar clamp. My vote would go for a Nitto Technomic and just keep the original seatpost (I doubt there was a zero setback dura ace seatpost of that vintage). Actually, I'm cheap so my real vote would be for using a cheap, short stem found in plentiful supply (for example, an SR 60 or 70 or something) to get the bike set up so you can ride it for a while and find out if you actualy like it. If you don't like it, swap the original stem back on and sell it and you're only out the cost of bar tape. If you do like it, take your time to find a suitable quality replacement in the right length while you have a ride-able bike. |
Originally Posted by due ruote
(Post 13234347)
http://ruedatropical.com/2009/03/roa...-bar-geometry/
Sometimes selecting a bar with less reach can help too. Also you could try raising the levers a smidge if you ride mostly on the hoods. That's a lot of bike for what you have in it. I'd be trying to make it work too. |
Just my opinion, but if you can stand over the top bar without crushing your jewels, you should be able to get a good fit on the bike. There is always the exception with someone that has very long legs or torso. Measure from the seat to the bars on the SS, then the Trek and see how different the measurements are. The riding position is different on the bikes though, so I wouldn't try and get them exact. I would be more concerned with where the crank is located relative to the seat. If you move the saddle too far forward, too much pressure is put on your arms, it's fatiguing and they go numb on longer rides. You should be able to sit on the bike (with your feet on the pedals) and lift your hands off the bars without undue stress to stay upright. The Trek is a very nice bike, but you will probably have to get used to a more aggressive riding style to keep it. I would get it close and ride it before sending it on it's way.
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Originally Posted by mainstreetexile
(Post 13234406)
Nice bike. I hadn't heard of this Dura Ace stem before but it looks and sounds awesome.
My vote would go for a Nitto Technomic and just keep the original seatpost (I doubt there was a zero setback dura ace seatpost of that vintage). Actually, I'm cheap so my real vote would be for using a cheap, short stem found in plentiful supply (for example, an SR 60 or 70 or something) to get the bike set up so you can ride it for a while and find out if you actualy like it. If you don't like it, swap the original stem back on and sell it and you're only out the cost of bar tape. If you do like it, take your time to find a suitable quality replacement in the right length while you have a ride-able bike. |
Originally Posted by ChicAgo steel
(Post 13234518)
... now the project is under water. I think I ran a stop sign in that last sentence.
A keeper is something you like, want to keep, and like to ride. Keep the take-off parts as you swap parts to get it dialed in to your size. If it does turn out to be a flipper and not a keeper you can always put the original parts back onto it before you send it to it's next owner. That way you'll have parts available for the next time an almost close enough fit bike comes along. |
OK, I know earlier I said I'd be trying to make it fit, but that was before coffee.
You got a great deal on the package. I would give serious thought to stripping the parts and either selling the frame, or trading it on the 'frame doesn't fit' thread. Just sayin. I believe the upper end Treks were often sold as framesets anyway. |
Yeah...24" has a 73.5* STA...but...I have no idea what your Schwinn has...but it would need to be at least 1* difference to make any real difference.
Originally Posted by ChicAgo steel
(Post 13233751)
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Originally Posted by buldogge
(Post 13241777)
Yeah...24" has a 73.5* STA...but...I have no idea what your Schwinn has...but it would need to be at least 1* difference to make any real difference.
Thanks for getting back to me. The SS appears to have roughly a 73* STA, right in the ballpark. |
if your trying to make the bike fit, don't get hung up on a fancy stem to match. buy something that is reasonably priced and fits, then wrap the DA stem in a towel and same it for when and if you sell this great looking trek.
If I may suggest this, stop going to your LBS for simple brake adjustments. there must be dozens of C&V guys and gals near you and perhaps you can get a lesson for the price of a sixer of Ale. beautiful bike but (yes I am being snarky) why the Craigslist pic? LOL http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...1&d=1316141439 how about a nice pic of the drive side? if the tape is for the brake caliper it may be a tad high http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...3&d=1316141503 a DA seat post too? somebody loved this baby http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...9&d=1316141374 |
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