Ok – this is a long piece and I hope I can explain the situation

Ok – so this is what happened – wanted to overall the BB on my fiorelli – campy crankset
Had been waiting for my 15mm crank bolt wrench to arrive and it did (nice tool)
So I select my puller (I have three of the 22mm standard puller – why 3? Why not – n+1 works w tools too)
Anyway – I choose my wrench force puller which has a removable piece on the top (it pops in / out)
so it threads on w/o difficulty and I start turning the bolt to “pull” off the arm
tighter and tighter and tighter – ok…where’s the release?
Never comes so I unthread the puller and the top piece is stuck inside the crank arm
Fortunately – the puller did manage to leverage the arm off enough for me to get it free
But unfortunately the top piece drove into the square taper of the arm a few mm
I was able to punch it out and now I wait…
I will overall the BB and then see if the square taper was compromised
Hopefully it will still be able to be sufficiently tightened for resuse
The threads didn’t strip so I can get it on / off again
Its just the outside few mm of taper that got damage
Obviously the inside – which looks good – is more important (I think)

So what happened – well this happened once before with another crankset and I never figured out what I did wrong
Today I think I realized it
This puller has a removable piece (circular) on the top that is wider than the taper hole (by just a little)
Because the crank spindle is one where the campy bolt threads ‘into’ not ‘onto’ the spindle – the end of the spindle lies flush with the entrance of the square taper
This contrasts the other ‘onto’ style where the spindle end protrudes past the entrance of the taper

Confused? Its tough to explain

So what happened in this case was the large top piece had nowhere to go when I began screwing it in and it apparently won the “who’s harder” battle between crank arm and tool – if it had been the other spindle type the arm would have been leveraged off before the removable piece could come close to the square taper entrance

So I should have either removed that tool end piece with this style of crank or just used on of my other 22mm pullers which have no large ended removable piece

That way as the tool threads in it finds only the spindle end and doesn’t touch the taper walls

Lets hope the arms are still usable
Has this ever happened to any of you – or am I the only ‘tool’?

visual aid

sorry link didnt work

Can't see your picture. IME when pulling a crank, if it doesn't feel right, stop, remove the puller, start over. Don't ask me how I know.

Can't see your pic here at work, but I think I understand what happened. I've only used a Campy extractor, which does have an end piece on the extractor bolt, but it fits inside of the arm taper quite easily.

Are these NR/SR cranks? The spindle should not be flush with the inside flat surface of the crank arm, but should be below it. IIRC, Kurt had posted a pic in another thread showing what one should look like.

As for your crank arm? Not sure; if it were me I would put it on and see what happened. I would think the spindle should push it out a bit and back into its original shape somewhat? I would probably install it, and then remove the bolt and take a look to see if any aluminum was sticking up, etc.

sorry the link didnt work - thankfully i used a diff puller on the non drive and got it off NP

i mean - i'll try the crank and hopefully it'll work - if not - parts bin baby - it was a $35 doller bike for me - dont get me wrong - nicest crankset i have

but the bike will ride on for sure - got to

lol - i saw a renee hearse crank set go for $2600 on ebay the other day
manage nickering up that arm
i'd be sweating like a bomb squad technician in a texas summer when it was time to overall that crankset

edit: did i mention i liked cottered cranks better

BB overhauled - cranks reinstalled - going for a ride momentarily - will report back

note: i did try to remove the fixed cup
budged it right just a little then it wouldnt budge again - left or right
i am used to fixed cups loosening to the right
perhaps though the threading on this one is reversed
and i have just tightened it further
either way - it aint going anywhere
so i just left it be and did my overhaul
cranks and BB have no play
lets give the 30 m test

edit: btw - BB spindle is a zues - cups are sugino

30 miler finished and BB / arms held up well - no play - thankfully - i didnt destroy the crankset - as borat would say - 'great success'

I just hate it when stuff like that happens.. Thankfully it worked out for you.

thanks - you learn alot from mistakes - but its better when its not your own

Being a Fiorelli, this is probably Italian threaded BB. If you have no good reason to remove it, then I wouldn't.

yeah my decision was to leave it go - i cleaned it up as best i could from the other side - the other cup was in good shape as well

so the italian thread on the fixed side would be left to loosen am i correct? if that is the case then my efforts ended up tightening the cup a bit which is fine since i am not going to be removing it at this time

I had the same thing happen to me as well a while back. My drive side crank arm has held as well. I believe the part where it gets stuck is too far up to have any affect.

If I unthread the push rod before I try to remove the part that threads into the crank it works fine.

Regarding removing the fixed cup, make yourself the Sheldon Brown tool, you won't regret it.

Yes, Italian threading is standard right hand for both cups, so counter-clockwise to loosen. The fixed cup apparently tends to loosen itself, so they are sometimes put in with thread locker or teflon tape to prevent this.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html

My tool for pulling sq taper cranks has a removable end as well, with 2 to choose from. One works on narrower opening and one for larger (later model) BBs. I always have to check before threading it in that the part that contacts the axle does so without touching the crank taper. Another favorite error of mine; forgetting to ensure you take out the washer for the crank bolt and trying to remove the cranks with the washer still in place. Doesn't work well, to say the least, but it does result in some interestingly shaped washers..