Just picked up a yellow (73?) Schwinn Varsity. Its in pretty good shape, and, yes the bike was free. I know this bike isn't worth nearly as much as it weighs but I thought it looked cool (does this bike have any value? maybe after I restore it?)

I want to know exactly what year this is and everything you guys know about this bike.





P.S. I already got rid of that horrid baby seat.

I'll add the Serial # tomorrow.

schwinns are great and though the varsity is a tank - its an easy bike to work on - and sorta classic - enjoy it
as far as value - its hard to fetch much for it unless the condition is superb imo

Free bikes are always fun. The value, in ready to ride condition, would be somewhere between $75-150 depending on how hot of a used bike market you have. The lower end of that range would basically cover the cost of the tires and other consumables to make it ready to go, and about 75 cents an hour for your labor.

To determine the year and month of your Varsity, locate the serial number under the headbadge and just above the fork crown. It will begin with two letters. Let's say "CG" followed by 6 or so numbers. The letters are the Date Code. The first equates the month and the second to the year.

For instance C=March and G=1971. A-M for months skipping I, and F=1970, H=1972, etc.

Hope this helps.

1971 Varsity Specs

1971 Varsity Catalog Page

Yeah, I have a CJ Varsity: March, 1973 (I was not used.) Mine was also free.

I got one brand-new for my 13th birthday, long ago. The best part is the nice, easy-riding geometry. Riding position (crank vs saddle vs bars) on old Schwinns somehow works great for me then and now. (I'm a commuter/utility rider w/ many trips in the single-digits mileage and very few over 50.) Easy to ride hands-off, stable through uneven patches.

The bladed fork and thick frame makes for a teeth-rattling ride over bumps. Even a Continental with its tubular fork is noticeably better. Forty pounds and steel wheels and crank mean your legs will get strong if you ride in stop-and-go traffic. The heavy rotating parts are some help over small rises though, helps you to maintain speed. Efficient bottom bracket bearings, though the rotating mass of steel negates the benefit somewhat.

Chrome plated rims and caliper brakes stop great in dry weather, poorly when wet.

They're easy to work on, you'll need only the minimum of special tools. If you think you might like riding it, go for it. Fresh grease everywhere, true and tension the wheels, and you're golden.

Lots of resources here and elsewhere for dating and servicing these. Google works better than the site's own search engine. Google " 'search term(s)' site:bikeforums.net " Good luck!

I've sold lots of them after rehab in the $140.00-$180.00 range depending on condition.

They're heavy but virtually indestructible and in most cases the original components still work perfectly even after 40 years.

I don't have any in my fleet but if I could find a pre '66 in my size I might add one, the pre '66 bikes had lighter, smaller diameter tubing than the later ones.


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