Suntour Barcons
#26
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I have been watching the prices Barcons fetch on eBay for a bit. It's all over the map, and really depends on the listing details. I just picked up a pair, including cable, housing, stops, a Raleigh-labeled Suntour Vx RD, FD, crank, seat bolt/nut, for $56. All because it was a single fuzzy picture with no detailed description.
#27
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Regarding the locknuts...I have a hardware store here that has a VAST array of loose hardware, most drawers of nuts, bolts, screws I've ever seen in a single store. I plan on taking one of my locknuts in and seeing if I can find a bolt or screw with a similarly shaped head. Whack the head off, put in a vice with some wood gripping it and drill a hole down the center of the head, then tap. I hope to reproduce fairly closely the original locknut for all of us who have barcons without.
#28
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IMO, silver shifters work better than the SunTours.
they are also a Suntour design, for downtube location, lever rather too long
as a Bar end.
so how did you like the Kool Aide?
#29
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I was watching ebay auctions for these for a few weeks, and it seemed that they all went for at least $45. I got lucky and found a pair locally for $20 and I snatched them up right away.
#31
Senior Member
Regarding the locknuts...I have a hardware store here that has a VAST array of loose hardware, most drawers of nuts, bolts, screws I've ever seen in a single store. I plan on taking one of my locknuts in and seeing if I can find a bolt or screw with a similarly shaped head. Whack the head off, put in a vice with some wood gripping it and drill a hole down the center of the head, then tap. I hope to reproduce fairly closely the original locknut for all of us who have barcons without.
btw, I clamped the screw shank in my drill press vise and drilled the pilot hole before sawing off the head. The shank was just big enough for the 4M pilot.
#32
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I've done this with a regular straight slot pan head screw and it worked fine. I think it was a #12. I used stainless so tapping was a little slow, but do-able.
btw, I clamped the screw shank in my drill press vise and drilled the pilot hole before sawing off the head. The shank was just big enough for the 4M pilot.
btw, I clamped the screw shank in my drill press vise and drilled the pilot hole before sawing off the head. The shank was just big enough for the 4M pilot.
Good idea about drilling before beheading...I'll try that.
My goal is to have a few sets on hand for when people need them.
#33
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#35
Senior Member
Thanks for that...I had just envisioned this in my head. I was hoping to find a screw with a somewhat shallower head than a standard pan but we'll see.
Good idea about drilling before beheading...I'll try that.
My goal is to have a few sets on hand for when people need them.
Good idea about drilling before beheading...I'll try that.
My goal is to have a few sets on hand for when people need them.
Also, it's been said before - a drop of blue loctite on these isn't a bad idea at all.
#36
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I really like my Barcons and Suntour makes the best ones, in my opinion. I have them mounted on a few different bikes, the most recent of which is my Motobecane Gran Jubilee. Today, I took the drop bars off of the Motobe...
and installed mustache bars, with Barcons fitted, exactly the same as the set-up on my Legnano Gran Premio...
and installed mustache bars, with Barcons fitted, exactly the same as the set-up on my Legnano Gran Premio...
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#38
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I gave away a perfectly fine Suntour bar-con body after I crashed and broke the lever. Then I found a lever at a co-op but did not have a body.
Since then ive tried to build a single functioning bar-con with two bodies and three levers. However those little metal "g shaped" springs inside the ratchet seem to be cut different lengths by hand to work with each lever/body combo.
If anyone has a barcon or barcon parts, I am still looking.
Since then ive tried to build a single functioning bar-con with two bodies and three levers. However those little metal "g shaped" springs inside the ratchet seem to be cut different lengths by hand to work with each lever/body combo.
If anyone has a barcon or barcon parts, I am still looking.
#40
In the right lane
#42
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
There is nothing better than Suntour Bar Cons when you consider their price, availability, and rock solid construction and performance and when it comes to friction systems Suntour is king.
I do run some Simplex Retrofriction dt's which are, without a doubt the smoothest shifter ever made but they are neither plentiful or cheap.
I also have some of these bad boys and some indexed Suntour bar end shifters which can also be switched to friction.
Suntour Command Shifters... switchable between a regular 6 speed, Ultra 7, and friction. These are brilliant but sadly, were introduced during the sunset of Suntour's production.
This is how they mount...
I do run some Simplex Retrofriction dt's which are, without a doubt the smoothest shifter ever made but they are neither plentiful or cheap.
I also have some of these bad boys and some indexed Suntour bar end shifters which can also be switched to friction.
Suntour Command Shifters... switchable between a regular 6 speed, Ultra 7, and friction. These are brilliant but sadly, were introduced during the sunset of Suntour's production.
This is how they mount...
#43
Death fork? Naaaah!!
They're not really reverse threaded; you're just looking at the bolt from the wrong end.
I'm not trying to be a smart burro. Think about it.
Top
I'm not trying to be a smart burro. Think about it.
Top
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
#44
You gonna eat that?
Yeah, I think that's right, top. To loosen the bolt, you need to screw it further into the handlebar, which means turning the hex key clockwise.
#45
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Thanks for that...I had just envisioned this in my head. I was hoping to find a screw with a somewhat shallower head than a standard pan but we'll see.
Good idea about drilling before beheading...I'll try that.
My goal is to have a few sets on hand for when people need them.
Good idea about drilling before beheading...I'll try that.
My goal is to have a few sets on hand for when people need them.
If I can get my arse going after table tennis tonight I'll try drilling a few.
Anyone know off-hand the screw size and thread for these things? I'm not at home and wanted to go get a tap. M4 maybe?
#46
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I picked up some stubby pan head slotted sheet metal screws today who's heads snuggle nicely into the opening for the locknut.
If I can get my arse going after table tennis tonight I'll try drilling a few.
Anyone know off-hand the screw size and thread for these things? I'm not at home and wanted to go get a tap. M4 maybe?
If I can get my arse going after table tennis tonight I'll try drilling a few.
Anyone know off-hand the screw size and thread for these things? I'm not at home and wanted to go get a tap. M4 maybe?
Those locknuts are a very commonly lost/damaged part, and have not been
available for decades.
As it happens, there is a relatively easy workaround. Many pedal
reflectors use 4 mm threaded hardware, with nuts that use a 7 mm wrench.
The 4 mm thread is the same as the Barcon pivolt bolt, and the 7 mm size
is small enough to let you use a nutdriver or socket wrench to tighten
the nut up inside the recess in the Barcon housing.
Most bike shops will have a box full of discarded pedal reflectors under
a counter somewhere...
Sheldon "Solutions" Brown
+--------------------------------------------------+
| Some of my brother's paintings may be seen at: |
| https://junila.com |
+--------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
https://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
https://captainbike.com https://sheldonbrown.com
available for decades.
As it happens, there is a relatively easy workaround. Many pedal
reflectors use 4 mm threaded hardware, with nuts that use a 7 mm wrench.
The 4 mm thread is the same as the Barcon pivolt bolt, and the 7 mm size
is small enough to let you use a nutdriver or socket wrench to tighten
the nut up inside the recess in the Barcon housing.
Most bike shops will have a box full of discarded pedal reflectors under
a counter somewhere...
Sheldon "Solutions" Brown
+--------------------------------------------------+
| Some of my brother's paintings may be seen at: |
| https://junila.com |
+--------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
https://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
https://captainbike.com https://sheldonbrown.com
#47
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Hmmm...M4 tap requires a 3.3mm drill bit, 3.3mm = 0.1299216", 1/8" = 0.125"
Can't imagine the 0.004" matters for the tap huh?
I think we have a winner!
Can't imagine the 0.004" matters for the tap huh?
I think we have a winner!
#48
Senior Member
I listed a couple pairs of these on ebay this past Spring for $25 BIN price +shipping and they sold VERY quickly..........
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#49
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I little late to the conversation I used to have a set of what I guess you would call semi index with longer levers Suntour barcons that worked great with both 5, 6speed and good with 7 tension setups that where on a bike that got stolen a about 8or9 years ago. They where great If I could find another pair like them they are one of the few small older parts I would shell out actual bucks for. Damn be the daffy looking cabling of having two extra cables come off your bars for them to work great.
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