Frame Wax Input
#1
Frame Wax Input
I am about to start cleaning and polishing my mixte frame. I have read a lot about how to address most of the problems I will encounter while doing this. The only thing I haven't decided on is the waxing stage. Yes, I have searched but I would like input and preferences.
I want to know what wax YOU recommend and why. I can read every thread here but first hand experience is always better.
Thanks in advance for your input. I promise to post pictures when I'm done so y'all can see the results.
I want to know what wax YOU recommend and why. I can read every thread here but first hand experience is always better.
Thanks in advance for your input. I promise to post pictures when I'm done so y'all can see the results.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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Actually the results of how shiny it will get is not because of the wax but how sanded and polished the paint is.
The color was sanded to perfection, then cleared with 3 coats of clear and then sanded again, then polished by hand and the only extra stuff i put in there was something called tech wax from meguiars the 1st time, that pretty much is a conditioner that put oils and stuff in the clear. But that was done only once.

The color was sanded to perfection, then cleared with 3 coats of clear and then sanded again, then polished by hand and the only extra stuff i put in there was something called tech wax from meguiars the 1st time, that pretty much is a conditioner that put oils and stuff in the clear. But that was done only once.

Last edited by ultraman6970; 11-27-11 at 09:37 PM.
#3
Unfortunately I am going to have to deal with rust removal during the cleaning process so touch up paint and wax are going to be the best bet to keep the frame in good shape. I wish all it took was a sand and polish.
#6
It's not in bad enough shape to warrant a full repaint. Just needs some attention in a few spots to really make it shine. I'll most likely use nail polish and then a nice wax over the top.
Auchen - Is it safe to wax over foil stickers? I hate that this stuff is over the clear coat.
Auchen - Is it safe to wax over foil stickers? I hate that this stuff is over the clear coat.
#7
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#8
Chef - I have relatively few foil stickers on my fleet but have never encountered an issue with Meguiar's. - YMMV because the construction of stickers and decals varies, with some made with soluble paint. Meguiars' Tech wax is however an automotive wax so it is unlikely that any clear-coat issues would arise.
It is not cheap, but IMO it's worth it - I think I paid $21 at the auto supply store. Buying on line would not be much less after shipment.
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- Auchen
- Auchen
#10
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: South Jersey
Bikes: Too many Bicycles to list
Another vote for Mothers here, I like the way it cleans as well as the shine factor it leaves on older paint. If I have a bike that the paint is in excellent condition already I will use Colinite (SPELLING?) Insulator Wax on it, it's expensive but tough as nails and last a long time between wax jobs.
#11
I'm also a fan of Meguiar's stuff. Several of the numbered waxes and cleaner/waxes I use on my vehicles. Available at auto body supply stores. If you are working on your Jeunet and the paint is dulled a bit, one of the treatments with a light abrasive compound to it might be in order, to rub out the paint a bit. I would keep it off foil decals though. Just use regular wax over those if needed.
#12
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
I use Turtle wax as well. If the paint is tired/oxidized, I use turtle wax polishing compound first. On severe cases, I will carefully use turtle wax rubbing compound.
I am careful around decals.
I am careful around decals.
#13
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#14
PanGalacticGargleBlaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Smugglers Notch, Vermont
Bikes: Upright and Recumbent....too many to list, mostly Vintage.
If its oxidized or really nasty I will use Meguiars ScratchX 2.0 first. For wax I always use Mothers Carnuba wax in the tin. I don't like the liquid stuff.
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#15
I use rubbing compound on stuff that's been long unprotected or obviously oxidized,
polishing compound on stuff that's less beat up looking, and paste wax afterward
to protect both the paint and the chipped and bare spots.
The car guys have a bazillion answers to this question posted on the
interwebz, and who knows more about shiny than the car guys?
Most of what I do this on does not then get ridden in the rain, which is why god
has given us beater bikes.
polishing compound on stuff that's less beat up looking, and paste wax afterward
to protect both the paint and the chipped and bare spots.
The car guys have a bazillion answers to this question posted on the
interwebz, and who knows more about shiny than the car guys?

3m finish restorer available at Auto zone in the paint and body section. Great stuff but remember
you have to polish after to add moisture to the paint and then wax to protect. the last 2 steps
are necessary with any rubbing compound and there is a difference between polish and wax.
polish conditions, wax protects. as far as polish i prefer McGuire's no26 or no29 one is a polish
and one is a wax both are great for step 2 & 3.
you have to polish after to add moisture to the paint and then wax to protect. the last 2 steps
are necessary with any rubbing compound and there is a difference between polish and wax.
polish conditions, wax protects. as far as polish i prefer McGuire's no26 or no29 one is a polish
and one is a wax both are great for step 2 & 3.
has given us beater bikes.
#16
i've read plenty lately regarding waxes. generally speaking, the more you pay, the better the wax.
however, there's 2 general kinds of waxes:
1. carnauba (natural).
2. synthetic.
carnauba wax is supposed to be "super hard" whatever that means. it is not hard in any appreciable way for bikes. it lasts about 30 days they say, although there's lot of variables. but, it does have an incredible shine, and it is what you want to use if you are going for looks. it is not even close.
synthetic wax (like meguiars above) is made in a lab and is probably way more advanced than carnauba. it lasts a lot longer. months longer. but it doesn't look as nice, but it still looks great. it can be slightly hazy/milky, but i doubt you'd notice.
i used carnauba (kit brand) on my bare steel frame and it looked fantastic. it also started to rust during longer rides (on the coast). if i did it again, i would use a synthetic.
however, there's 2 general kinds of waxes:
1. carnauba (natural).
2. synthetic.
carnauba wax is supposed to be "super hard" whatever that means. it is not hard in any appreciable way for bikes. it lasts about 30 days they say, although there's lot of variables. but, it does have an incredible shine, and it is what you want to use if you are going for looks. it is not even close.
synthetic wax (like meguiars above) is made in a lab and is probably way more advanced than carnauba. it lasts a lot longer. months longer. but it doesn't look as nice, but it still looks great. it can be slightly hazy/milky, but i doubt you'd notice.
i used carnauba (kit brand) on my bare steel frame and it looked fantastic. it also started to rust during longer rides (on the coast). if i did it again, i would use a synthetic.
#17
After all the cleaning and polishing I do I went and splurged on a true paint sealer.It really took it up a notch. 
Works great on the Aluminun bits too.
-35 year old paint

-30 years old paint

-60 year old paint
Works great on the Aluminun bits too.

-35 year old paint

-30 years old paint

-60 year old paint
#18
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
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After all the cleaning and polishing I do I went and splurged on a true paint sealer.
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"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
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#19
This slightly less expensive Meguiar's #26 worked well for me on the cars.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M2616...533355&sr=1-33
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M2616...533355&sr=1-33
#20
Ban the Deed not da breed
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Caledon, Ontario, Canada
Bikes: Fausto Coppi, Bianchi Limited, Manufrance, Panasonic, Gardin, Rossi, Miele, Carrero, Centurion, Nishiki tri A, Raleigh record, Haro Master bmx, Softride, CW Phaze 1 Bmx
Turtle wax platinum with carnuba, I was sold on this stuff when I cleaned up an old Japanese Crown road bike once , it came out like it was coated with glass, and it looked like it was made by angels lol
#21
SE Wis

Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
I use Meguire's cleaner/wax - because it's "in stock"
https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.do?q=4571
https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.do?q=4571
#23
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From: Normal, Illinois
Bikes: Trek 600 ,1980Raleigh Competition G.S., 1986 Schwinn Passage, Facet Biotour 2000, Falcon San Remo 531,Schwinn Sierra, Sun Seeker tricycle recumbent,1985 Bianchi Squadra
Also another Megularian. Tru raises a good question about powdercoat.
#24
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
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"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
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#25
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 850
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From: Brooklyn
Bikes: Schwinns
I use Turtle Wax with carnuba, but illwafer is correct, it doesn't last very long if you're constantly using the bike. I wax my race bike about 2x a season because it's used daily. You can see the shine slowly disappear and the paint becomes matte (well mine does anyway since it's matte black underneath). FYI the liquid stuff is a little harder to use because there aren't any large flat surfaces like on a car.




