Hi Oldpeddlar...typically aero levers (and especially STI) are not good with v-brakes - these Tektros are built to work with v-brakes. Another option is using a travel agent, but I didn't go that route because it adds complexity and the Tekros were perfect for what I wanted anyway.

http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_pr...s&sort=2&fid=3

The shifters are Suntour Commands and are separate from the brake lever...they were Suntour's attempt to compete with STI in the early 90s and it didn't take off. They're the first time I've used them so I need more time to pass judgement. So far I like them a LOT...you can shift from the drops, flats OR hoods. They aren't as smooth or precise as STI, but I'm also not running them with the Suntour derailleur/freewheel they were designed for. That's probably affecting performance (they do work quite well as is).

Cool bike, if you actually plan on putting miles on it in bad weather I would highly suggest fenders and nokian studded tires (they have carbide studs that don't wear out). How you have it set up now will work - sort of - but it's not optimal IME.

I guess I have you to thank for it not snowing so far this season!

I wasn't going to go with fenders, but do plan on using studded tires. Paging Holiday! I'd spoken with some folks who told me that the fenders were a bad idea - they'd likely get build up inside which hurt the ride. I used a Cannondale with a rear rack as a winter bike for a while and the rack did catch snow. I plan on riding harder this winter so I'm in better shape for spring, which will motivate me to ride more then as well. I've always commuted to work through snow (it's a short commute though) and am planning on extending that to post and pre-work rides.

I'm thinking that using rain pants should minimize fender utility anyway - the bike sure isn't going to be affected by snow/salt.

That looks like a pretty hot ride for a snow-bike Aaron. :thumb:
(DEFINITELY get those studded tires on it though, or you'll you'll go down on your keester the first time you hit ice under the powder.)

I've had that happen a couple of times in the past few years...this bike was an attempt to avoid it.

Well...I wouldn't say that. The frame won't rust but everything else will, and shifting will sure be affected.

Aluminum doesn't really rust the way steel does...and none of these parts are especially valuable or hard to replace. I don't think having fenders on my Koga Miyata really protects the chain or derailleurs from rain, it really just protects me from rain...and the frame.

Cold day in you know where before I'd add fenders to a winter bicycle up here in the tundra.

I ripped a set of Planet Bikes off my Miyata last winter. Too much ice/slush, as it was gumming up the driveline/cog.

If I lived in the Pacific Northwest with just rain to contend with, for sure.

Looks like the bike is coming along Aaron.

FWIW I rode a very nice Serotta Fierte yesterday with studded Schwalbes and I didn't like them as much as the Nokians on my ParkPre Hammer.

http://images.jensonusa.com/large/ti...__26___1.9.jpg

I agree with those who nix fenders for heavy snow--they can and will clog. I made my own studded tires for winter--drove sheet screws from the inside of cheap knobbies. They worked great, but I end up giving them away. This year I may get some Schwalbes.

That thing came out all sorts of awesome. Honestly, the coolest build I've seen in awhile.

Definitely Vader.

So another words it shifts exactly like every other Acushift that is still somewhat functioning LOL
I have had 3 different bikes with Acushift thumb shifters and they all acted that way. Guess thats part of the reason Shimano pummeled them so bad when Index came out.

Nice build

Thanks man! I'm really sort of surprised at these reactions - I thought it was sort of a plain jane, non-descrip build with pretty blahh parts. I saw it as a work horse. I mean, I'm putting Huffy decals on it!

Interesting - I thought it was because I was using the Shimano derailleur and cassette. It shifts well enough for what I want to do with it, but Campy Ergo it is not. I love that you can shift from any position.

It doesn't always have to be Italian & campy for people to like it......:p

One bike I know was all a matched set. It was a 91 Trek Multitrack 720. with 7 speed Acushift. 100% sure it was unmolested but was non functional when I got it. Took apart the thing soaked it in a mild solvent and got it to function.
One of the other bikes was another trek Multitrack and pretty sure it was all original parts.
Last one I will confess was a Franken bike. I dont know what was right for the bike.

Interesting. The spacing on a Freewheel for a Acushift is 2.0mm Shimano is 1.85mm on Hg IG is 2.35 and 1.8 on 8speed.

http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html

I don't know if I'd go this far, but I'm going to - it's almost a little steampunk/utilitarian. Really, I just think all ti is badass.

Now, if it'd clear 700x32 cross tires and had a disc tab... oooooh boy!

Forgive my ignorance, but...
 

what's the reason for putting drop bars on a MTB? Really....it's not a snotty question...I've just never seen it before.

Not snotty at all and I'll do my best to answer.

For me it's about a couple of things - drop bars have more hand positions so that you can shift when you start getting stiff. I like riding my hoods and usually straight bars have a wider hand position that only works if you're upright. I prefer a slightly more bent over position because it stretches out my back. These are actually drops designed for mTBs and setup for torque out of the drops (notice the flare out?). If it's windy with straight bars, you're a sail. With drops, I can bend down and get through a little more easily. Ice and wind = I want low wind resistance.

Why not use drops? :)

You people riding in the snow are nuts (in a good way). I haven't tried that since I was 12.

Nice bike Aaron, you should have had it a month ago when we got the only snow we will get this year. Thank you La Nina!

I'd consider adding a Wipperman stainless chain. To be honest I found it didn't shift as well as a Campy chain, but it was nice to never have to worry about road salt-induced rust.

Ss a Winnipeger I put my vote in for fenders on a winter bike. I've found them nothing but valuable. Depends on how deep of snow you want to ride in I imagine, my experience is mostly just on the road. (Also right now I don't know how much my 'Winnipeger' vote counts, we barely have any snow!)

I vote for fenders too. The times when you'll have deep enough snow to gunk up the bike are going to be pretty rare.

I ride all winter long and even when the temps are in the teens, most of what is actually on the road after even a major snow storm is just slushy salty water (unless you are searching out virgin roads to lay first tracks). Fenders work wonders at keeping your feet and butt less swampy.

Thanks Roger - it's prety good for a "Huffy"!

Feels great on the hoods...the drops feel a little funky (not bad, just different). The braking is a tad spongey...it's not like the feel you get with traditional v-brake levers. They work well enough, but they are a bit spongey. The shifting layout is superb...you can shift easily from any position on the bike.The two levers make it easily reachable and the action feels good. I prefer ergo overall, but I wouldn't want to pay for ergos on a bike like this...or deal with them getting gunked up.

That is the thickness of the cog you are citing. The center-to-center spacing of the cogs is a much more critical deminsion for determining index compatibility.
Anyone have an idea what the R derailluer cable pull ratio was for suntour? I suspect it was probably very close to the normal (non early Dura Ace) 1.7:1 ratio used by shimano but it would be nice to have the exact ratio for suntour to calculate mis-match index drivetrain possibilities like at; http://www.ctc.org.uk/desktopdefault.aspx?tabid=3946

Konaron- Interesting that you are getting brake shudder with V-brakes, usual reason for the shudder is blamed on cable arrangement of cantilevers (flexing fork changes cable tension) which V-brakes are immune to. Clean the rims and pads, play with the pad toe angle and you can probably elimate the shudder.
Spongey lever feel = excessive amount of mechanical leverage of the system (and/or overly flexible brake caliper arms). Switching to V-brakes with shorter arms may help stiffen up the lever feel.

Grayjay - excellent advice, and I'll definitely play and try to fix the shudder. If this were an everyday bike I'd insist on perfection and experiment with options as you suggest - but I think good is good enough in this case, and the bike does stop.