As the title states...It is the "Two Prong" type. I did run a search and found that it was going to be a PIA I also found that my Park FR-2 two prong won't fit (prongs too big)
Sould I file down the prongs on the FR-2, look for the appropriate tool or ??? Any help/enlightenment would be greatly appreciated

Thanks much,
Chris

use a freewheel remover with a ring outside the two prongs, to help avoid slippage. You can damage the freewheel since the Regina freewheel just isn't that tough at the prong holes. I seem to ruin about half of them in removing. Nowadays I avoid removal, leaving a Regina freewheel dedicated to the wheel it is on, and build another wheel for needs.

I disagree with the above poster; I have been able to remove almost every Oro freewheel I've come across. But there are a few things you have to do to make this work.

Fist, clean the remover recesses very thoroughly. You want to maximize metal-to-metal contact. Use a solvent and a Q-tip to get all the way down in the corners. Second, when you file the tool, don't file it *quite* square. Give it a little taper so the bottom side is a tick wider than the top, with about a two degree angle. This would be on the left-hand side of the prong with it clamped in the vise upside down. This is to ensure the lower corner of the prong contacts the corner of the recess, and with the taper like you have it, it will want to wedge itself deeper into the recess instead of camming out. You'll want to use this with a skewer, of course, and I strongly advise clamping the tool in a vise so you can really feed it the beans. Don't dither and move with purpose, and all should go well.

Thanks for the replys! Captain Blight, I think I'm going to go your rout with this and file my FR-2 remover so it fits. Once off the regina will go to the fun things to look at pile, and a Shimano freewheel will take it's place!

Cheers,
Chris

Good advice from Captain Blight as usual. Test fit as you go with the filing. I found that the Park removers were of softer material than I thought they would be. Good luck.

I have gone a different route...I remove the outer 2 cogs, thus making the prong holes actually raised from the surface of the 3rd cog...then put a ratchet handle across the hole, which fills the prong holes perfectly and lets me really crank the hell out of it. I have done this twice now and both FWs came off with far less effort than using a breaker bar on the proper tool. I think it's because if you put a lever directly across the prong holes you're not changing the direction of the torque by 90 degrees before it's applied. You can pull up on one side while simultaneously pushing down on the other, and it's amazing how quickly they give way.

Very interesting concept! I love outside the box ideas!

Cheers,
Chris

Thanks...I came up with it because...you guessed it; didn't have the right tool at the time. Then I got the right tool and discovered it didn't work nearly as well.

Rootboy, what a nice thing to say! Thank you very much.

I have got to ask: Why get rid of the Oro? I've found them to be solid, smooth-shifting, well-made units.

The Oro freewheel came with a set of C&V wheels (Phil hubs) I just came into posession of. Anyway, the rear hub needs to go to Phil Wood to have the axle replaced (120 to 126) to fit my Woodrup, otherwise I would probably use it.

Cheers,
Chris

Dang, that's a nice problem to have to deal with. Um. Why don't you just leave the freewheel on and have the Phil guys take care of it? That way if they screw it up, they'll pay for it

Brilliant!

Cheers,
Chris

No, don't do that. It's nearly impossible to get a freewheel off a hub when the hub's not laced to a wheel.

That is a problem. But if he's taking the freewheel off at home, that does suggest that the wheel's still laced up. It costs like a dollar more to ship a wheel than it does a hub; and for me, the peace of mind would be worth the cost. I'm cheap but not a total skinflint.

When I called Phil Wood, they told me, I could ship the whole wheel if I didn't want to take it apart.
Tomorrow I'll call and see if they would be willing to remove the freewheel.

Cheers,
Chris

The G.S. Corse and Oro bodies were originally designed for a four-cog block; the other positions were added later without redesigning the body itself. Campagnolo's #704 tool was thus designed to remove a four-cog freewheel in the manner you describe. As more cogs were added, the #704 tool would no longer reach the slots in the freewheel body and therefor the #704/1 "reducing insert" was cobbled on to restore functionality to the #704 tool. The common 2-prong tools from Shimano, Bicycle Research, and others are copies of the "reducing insert" not the original tool.