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Colnago Mexico Project

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Old 01-24-12 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude

Interesting - and I'd like to know more about this, because from my research there seems precious little information regarding the first of Colnago's "shaped" tubing. For instance, I have a goodly number of Bicycling magazines from '81 through '84 and not once do I see the Nuovo Mexico mentioned - not even in the Colnago ads themselves. In fact, in said ads the two bikes most presented are the early Profil CX and the Superissimo.

Any links you can share? I'd like to know a little more about the birth of the crimped-tube frames.

And for the OP: seems late '82 or any time in '83 dates your particular frame

DD
You know as much as I do. It's a topic worthy of close attention moving forward. There is some question, ironically for me, whether the first channeled tube builder was Colnago or - wait for it - Picchio. My early 80's Picchio has "rigidio" channeled tubing - including fork blades. though my frame post-dates the first Nuovo Mexicos.
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Old 01-24-12 | 08:06 PM
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^ I'm going to dig around a little this weekend, then. I also want to see the earliest example of the long channels on the inside of the chainstays - my '83 has these as well, and I wonder if the hype stated that with these channels and their resulting rigidity, Colnago could dispense with shoring up the chainstays with a buttress.

I'm pretty sure one way or another, the original fork did in fact have the more aerodynamic fully-sloping crown - it seems that was a major design change vice seatstay caps or even the BB shells...

DD
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Old 01-24-12 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by miamijim
Either by hand or with the proper Park tools or a combination of both.


I'm going to try another LBS to see if they have this tool.
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Old 01-24-12 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage
Flipping the wheel is not fool proof, but it might make you want to investigate further.
Do not assume that the wheel all the way back in the drops will result in the wheel being aligned between the chainstays, I would float it forward, or better yet, install some adjuster screws provisionally and have a final answer before you go squirting paint, I would not powder coat this frame, unless you are willing to hide its Colnago identity. Something is up, but Colnago was not perfect, I have seen other bikes with the rear brake mount off side before. Also, no guarantee the stays take the most direct path to the seat lug.

The crude shop method of muscling a rear triangle into position is not foolproof, on really light tubing I have covered an angle iron segment with leather and used it to disperse the load.


Before you commit to paint try a cable clip and cable housing on the raw tube, you may not like how it works and or appears.
1. I have decided to paint the frame, no powder coating.
2. I'm going to solder on new cable guides.
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Old 01-24-12 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
100% agree on this - Ernesto was never one to pass up an opportunity to hype something just that little bit different into the next "gotta have" idiosyncrasy



Interesting - and I'd like to know more about this, because from my research there seems precious little information regarding the first of Colnago's "shaped" tubing. For instance, I have a goodly number of Bicycling magazines from '81 through '84 and not once do I see the Nuovo Mexico mentioned - not even in the Colnago ads themselves. In fact, in said ads the two bikes most presented are the early Profil CX and the Superissimo.

Any links you can share? I'd like to know a little more about the birth of the crimped-tube frames.

And for the OP: seems late '82 or any time in '83 dates your particular frame

DD
Thanks for all of the great information, much appreciated!
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Old 01-25-12 | 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
100% agree on this - Ernesto was never one to pass up an opportunity to hype something just that little bit different into the next "gotta have" idiosyncrasy




DD
Sure got me. I am no Colnago expert. I had crash my Gios into a car that got into the race corse. No body gave a damn about Junior races. It was 1985. I got insurance money in hand and went to Celo Europa for a Colnago. I wanted a Mexico or the latest and the greatest from Ernesto of course. I was told that was it. I search and search for the next new thing. These were the years way before the net. Only magazines and shops that imported Italian bikes were the go to places. I went to almost all of the big shops in socal looking for it but they all had the round SL (I think they were SL) frames. I ended up with a Medici. The best touring bike for racing, as the guys in the club would say, for 300 bucks. Two years later, I see this crimp tubing that suppose to increase strength and stiffness. it was the newest thing coming out of Colango. I was super pissed at Marcel at Celo Europa for getting me the Medici. Well, at least the racing continued.
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Old 01-25-12 | 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by look171
Sure got me. I am no Colnago expert. I had crash my Gios into a car that got into the race corse. No body gave a damn about Junior races. It was 1985. I got insurance money in hand and went to Celo Europa for a Colnago. I wanted a Mexico or the latest and the greatest from Ernesto of course. I was told that was it. I search and search for the next new thing. These were the years way before the net. Only magazines and shops that imported Italian bikes were the go to places. I went to almost all of the big shops in socal looking for it but they all had the round SL (I think they were SL) frames. I ended up with a Medici. The best touring bike for racing, as the guys in the club would say, for 300 bucks. Two years later, I see this crimp tubing that suppose to increase strength and stiffness. it was the newest thing coming out of Colango. I was super pissed at Marcel at Celo Europa for getting me the Medici. Well, at least the racing continued.
By '85, Marcel should have been able to order you up a Master, or even the rare Master Equallaterall:

https://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalog.../85prices3.jpg
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Old 01-25-12 | 08:13 AM
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This thread reminded me of this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...=%27colnago%27

I'm not sure if it'll help dating the op's bike.
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Old 01-25-12 | 08:19 AM
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I'm probably the only one on this thread who doesn't know, but - what is the best way to strip the paint as you did?
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Old 01-25-12 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbort88
1. I have decided to paint the frame, no powder coating.
2. I'm going to solder on new cable guides.
solder or braze? Not sure how durable solder would be, might be Ok on cable guides. Might be a detail question on the frame builders sub forum.

brazing is how most are done.

solder= lead/tin mix of metal that is used as "glue" between 2 metal parts. Relatively low temps required
Braze= brass mix if metal that is used as "glue" between 2 metal parts. Relatively high tems required (steel will be red hot+)
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Old 01-30-12 | 08:11 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jyl
I'm probably the only one on this thread who doesn't know, but - what is the best way to strip the paint as you did?
The respray on this frame was really thick so I started with some Rustoleum paint stripper, scraping off as much paint as possible then sanding with 320, 400, and 600 grit sandpaper (wet and dry). Since these pictures were taking I have done a lot more work with wire brushes and brillo pads. It is so important to have a clean frame when you repaint that spending the extra time to clean off all the old paint will pay in dividends.
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Old 01-30-12 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
solder or braze? Not sure how durable solder would be, might be Ok on cable guides. Might be a detail question on the frame builders sub forum.

brazing is how most are done.

solder= lead/tin mix of metal that is used as "glue" between 2 metal parts. Relatively low temps required
Braze= brass mix if metal that is used as "glue" between 2 metal parts. Relatively high tems required (steel will be red hot+)
Actually silver solder which is somewhere inbetween. The job will be good enough for hold cable guides, maybe not so much for cable stops. I'll post pics when I'm done.
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