1st rebuild, 1936 Raleigh Sports Model. Thoughts and help please.
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Probably don't want to dunk the whole wheel, the galvanized spokes don't play well with OA either. You can try flushing the hub with kerosene, then adding oil back into it. Or do a complete tear down and soak it in degreaser of some sort. OA is not going to hurt plastic. I don't know if I would do it my bath tub. Get a wading pool, or line a large fairly flat box with a sheet of heavy plastic.
Aaron
Aaron
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The more thorough way: disassemble the hub and clean all the internal parts by hand (being very careful not to lose the little pawls, springs, and pawl pins). With a 70+ -year-old hub, that's not a bad idea -- there's probably some ancient, varnished-up oil in there. The hub internals are less complicated than the diagrams might lead you to think. Really, I'm not a mechanical genius, but I pulled it off. Here's a guy with some good photos of the process, and here are some links to the Sturmey-Archer shop manuals. If you're patient and methodical, you'll have no trouble. Good luck!
#28
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The easiest way: just squirt the solvent in through the little oil filler tap hole. Turn the wheel a bit. Squirt some more solvent in. Let it sit for a couple of days. Turn again, pour the remaining solvent out through the right-hand end of the hollow axle, and refill with light motor oil. Keep refilling it and riding it, refilling it and riding it, 'til you're pretty sure that the oil coming out is fairly clean.
The more thorough way: disassemble the hub and clean all the internal parts by hand (being very careful not to lose the little pawls, springs, and pawl pins). With a 70+ -year-old hub, that's not a bad idea -- there's probably some ancient, varnished-up oil in there. The hub internals are less complicated than the diagrams might lead you to think. Really, I'm not a mechanical genius, but I pulled it off. Here's a guy with some good photos of the process, and here are some links to the Sturmey-Archer shop manuals. If you're patient and methodical, you'll have no trouble. Good luck!
The more thorough way: disassemble the hub and clean all the internal parts by hand (being very careful not to lose the little pawls, springs, and pawl pins). With a 70+ -year-old hub, that's not a bad idea -- there's probably some ancient, varnished-up oil in there. The hub internals are less complicated than the diagrams might lead you to think. Really, I'm not a mechanical genius, but I pulled it off. Here's a guy with some good photos of the process, and here are some links to the Sturmey-Archer shop manuals. If you're patient and methodical, you'll have no trouble. Good luck!
#29
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Don't put any oil on the braking surface itself. The brake pads will keep the rust down on those surfaces if you use the bike regularly. I saw you were worried about stopping power. Modern brake pads make a big difference. Kool Stops are probably the thing. They even make them in unobtrusive shapes for elder bikes. You probably want the Continental.
Don't put any oil on the braking surface itself. The brake pads will keep the rust down on those surfaces if you use the bike regularly. I saw you were worried about stopping power. Modern brake pads make a big difference. Kool Stops are probably the thing. They even make them in unobtrusive shapes for elder bikes. You probably want the Continental.
#30
Schwinnasaur
Be carefull not to misplace bolts, because Raleigh threading is all Whitworth which is hard to find.
As for freeing the stem, spray some sovent on bolt going vertically into the the stem and on the stem where it penetrates the down tube. Wait a day or so and see if it will loosen. Unscrew the bolt about 1/2" and wack it will a hard rubber mallet or a hammer with a hard wood block so you dont damage the bolt. It should move down. if this works then try to move the stem using the handle bars for leverage. If you are lucky it will come loose. If not report back to us.
As for freeing the stem, spray some sovent on bolt going vertically into the the stem and on the stem where it penetrates the down tube. Wait a day or so and see if it will loosen. Unscrew the bolt about 1/2" and wack it will a hard rubber mallet or a hammer with a hard wood block so you dont damage the bolt. It should move down. if this works then try to move the stem using the handle bars for leverage. If you are lucky it will come loose. If not report back to us.
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