Need help climbing!!!
#1
Need help climbing!!!
I live in Park City, UT and love to ride my Bianchi '84 Campione de Italia; the only problem is that I am not a great climber and need help making my Bianchi climb better. It is a 53x42 with a 13-23 rear. What are my options?
#2
Steel80's

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From: NJ
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Put a 7 speed MTB freewheel on it (new chain, too). They can go to 32 teeth. You'll have to change the derailleur, too, if that's Campy NR. Suntour Cyclone MKII is what I've used.
#3
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From: Portland OR
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Right now you have a low gear that is 3.63 gain ratio (49 inches, if you think that way).
Easiest is to change the freewheel. A 28-tooth big sprocket would get you a 2.98 gain ratio which is reasonably low. I imagine most rear derailleurs should be able to handle that amount of wrap.
Is it low enough? Hard to say. You could just do it and see. Or you could borrow or rent a bike with really low gearing (a hybrid like they rent to tourists, say) and go ride your favorite routes, see what is the highest gear you can comfortably use. Record that gear information (teeth on chain ring and on sprocket) as well as the other relevant info (rim diameter, crank length). Plug it into a gearing calculator like the one at Sheldon Brown's site and see what gain ratio you need for your Bianchi.
If needed, you could consider a smaller inner chainring (if your crank will accept it), a compact double crank, even a triple. Some of those start involving changing a lot of parts.
Obviously you will want to lose weight off yourself, build up your legs, etc etc, but you knew that already.
Easiest is to change the freewheel. A 28-tooth big sprocket would get you a 2.98 gain ratio which is reasonably low. I imagine most rear derailleurs should be able to handle that amount of wrap.
Is it low enough? Hard to say. You could just do it and see. Or you could borrow or rent a bike with really low gearing (a hybrid like they rent to tourists, say) and go ride your favorite routes, see what is the highest gear you can comfortably use. Record that gear information (teeth on chain ring and on sprocket) as well as the other relevant info (rim diameter, crank length). Plug it into a gearing calculator like the one at Sheldon Brown's site and see what gain ratio you need for your Bianchi.
If needed, you could consider a smaller inner chainring (if your crank will accept it), a compact double crank, even a triple. Some of those start involving changing a lot of parts.
Obviously you will want to lose weight off yourself, build up your legs, etc etc, but you knew that already.
#4
I like beans
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Meffa, MA
Bikes: Tarmac Pro, Bianchi Zurigo, Raleigh Gran Sport, Fuji Del Rey, Ironman Centurion
Agree with the new freewheel. That one should handle a 28, which will make climbing much easier. I notice a huge difference when I just take out my 11-26 bike over the 11-23 bike.
#6
'84 and '09 Pinarellos
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From: Seattle, WA
Bikes: '84 Pinarello Record Equipe rebuilt with Campy Chorus/ Record; 2009 Pinarello Paris/ Campy SR 11sp; Litespeed Tuscany w Campy SR 11 speed
Campy didn't make a 39 chainring to fit that crankset, although there might be an aftermarket one that will fit the BCD. While an earlier response suggested that you will need to change the NR rear derailleur with a wide range freewheel, you certainly will not have trouble with a 26 tooth big cog, and you may do ok with a 28. Trading the NR for an SR rear will definitely get you to the capability of a 28. Another (albeit more expensive) period correct alternative is a Record triple, but they are not very common and will probably require a new bottom bracket as well (different axle lengths). Battaglin used one in the mountain stages of the Giro in the early 80's.
Last edited by dmp; 03-26-12 at 02:37 PM.
#7
Banned.
Joined: Mar 2011
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Squats my friend, power circuits, find a building with plenty of stairs, walk a few levels and monitor your heart rate. Work your increasing 5% per week...
You are lacking on the high intensity side, not from endurance.
fyi, wrong sub-forums, admins stop slackin! LOL
You are lacking on the high intensity side, not from endurance.
fyi, wrong sub-forums, admins stop slackin! LOL
#8
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The NR rear will handle a 28 on the freewheel. Will probably have to lengthen chain.
The only way to improve on hills is by riding more hills...
The only way to improve on hills is by riding more hills...
#9
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I've been able to get NRs to work with 28s, but only on bikes with the longer 1010 dropouts--not sure it works with the later, shorter ones.
I agree 28 makes a big difference as compared to a 23. Plus I think low gears are good for climbing even if you're fairly strong. Years ago (when I was in much better shape) I used to ride a 53/39 x 13-29 (yes, 29) 10 speed Chorus drivetrain for hilly rides in SE Ohio. Some of the folks who laughed at the "pie plate" ended up eating my dust as I spun past them while they struggled up long steep climbs in higher gears.
I agree 28 makes a big difference as compared to a 23. Plus I think low gears are good for climbing even if you're fairly strong. Years ago (when I was in much better shape) I used to ride a 53/39 x 13-29 (yes, 29) 10 speed Chorus drivetrain for hilly rides in SE Ohio. Some of the folks who laughed at the "pie plate" ended up eating my dust as I spun past them while they struggled up long steep climbs in higher gears.
#11
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From: Utah
Bikes: Basso, No name 70's Columbus steel frame with Campy components, Fuji - The Finest, Raleigh Super Record, Giant Advanced TCR
Hello Sneak Bird, I live in Salt Lake City so I know what hills you are talking about. I ride my Basso with a Campy NR RD and Campy 50-34 compact crankset with a Sachs 13-26 freewheel. I tried to use a 13-28 freewheel, but it did not work well for me with the NR RD. The RD pulley did not clear the 28 sprocket cleanly. I also moved my axle as far back as possible in the dropout. The combination of the compact crankset and 13-26 freewheel provides the gear range for any canyon climbs around here.


#15
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I agree that with that crank and DR your easiest option is to change to a 28 freewheel. With most cranks you could just change to a 38 or 36 inner front ring but not with this crank. Just a couple of teeth difference and the change from strait to ramped will make a big difference.
#16
Crawlin' up, flyin' down


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In terms of componentry to get a lower low gear, anything other than putting on a 26 or 28 tooth rear cog is going to be a major investment, meaning some or all of: new crankset (compact double or triple), new bottom bracket, new front derailleur, new derailleur, new chain. Depending on what is one there now and what you want to switch out to, you might also need to get the rear triangle spread. No single item on this list is outrageously expensive, but it is a "this is the hoouse that Jack built" proposition and tghe cost can mount up fairly quickly.
And good luck finding one. As a practical matter, 42 teeth is as small as you can put on that crankarm.
Don't we all . . . .
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#17
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#18
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Henry III is/was making long cages specifically to fit a Campagnolo NR/SR rear derailleur. That would allow you to use an even bigger freewheel like 32 or 34 teeth. Look for his recent post in the For Sale thread.
But first try a 28t FW, it will make a huge difference from a 23t, maybe enough. 42-23 is insane for the mountains.
But first try a 28t FW, it will make a huge difference from a 23t, maybe enough. 42-23 is insane for the mountains.
#19
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Henry III is/was making long cages specifically to fit a Campagnolo NR/SR rear derailleur. That would allow you to use an even bigger freewheel like 32 or 34 teeth. Look for his recent post in the For Sale thread.
But first try a 28t FW, it will make a huge difference from a 23t, maybe enough. 42-23 is insane for the mountains.
But first try a 28t FW, it will make a huge difference from a 23t, maybe enough. 42-23 is insane for the mountains.
#20
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For the longest time, I rode straight blocks. Then I found the need to change, riding a 14 to 22 tooth freewheel. These days, I run a 14 to 26 and find that it makes a big difference. Swapping the freewheel is simple, inexpensive and just might give you that little edge that you need.
Worked pretty good for me.
Worked pretty good for me.
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#21
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My guess is also that this is a 6 or 7 cog freewheel... if 7 it will take deft manipulation to catch a 28 w/o interference, chain length, axle position all play a roll. A 26 as a final of 7, no problem.
For my effort, I would go compact front, VO, TA, IRD. A 42 x 28 will get you a gear just over 40". ... I would look at the compact options with a gear chart. I am not saving you money perhaps with this advice, but the chain and existing freewheel will work, I think the chain length will be fine. You will not mess up the paint on the rear dropouts, and the IRD or VO crank looks "Campagnolo compatible".
#22
aka Tom Reingold




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Good catch, repechage.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments. Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#23
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For the longest time, I rode straight blocks. Then I found the need to change, riding a 14 to 22 tooth freewheel. These days, I run a 14 to 26 and find that it makes a big difference. Swapping the freewheel is simple, inexpensive and just might give you that little edge that you need.
Worked pretty good for me.
Worked pretty good for me.
#24
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And while you are addressing these gearing changes, a bike that pretty really needs a matching front wheel.
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-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer (x2) '72 Peugeot PX10 72 Gitane Gran Tourisme '73 Speedwell Ti '74 Motobecane Grand Jubile '74 Peugeot UE-8 80 Colnago Super 81 Univega Super Special 82 Zinn 84ish Mystery Custom '85 A.L.A.N Cyclocross '85 De Rosa Pro '86 Look Equipe 753 '86 Look KG86 '89 Parkpre Team Road '90 Parkpre Team MTB '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
#25
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