![]() |
Nice little $6 dropout alignment tool
Just got through cold setting the new Paramount to 130 and straightening the frame. This is what I used to align the drops:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-l...0/P1020127.JPG Two M10 machine allen bolts with four nuts. Less than $6 at the local hardware store. And I didn't have to cut an axle (which I don't have). And then there is this: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...2/P1020069.JPG |
so what technique/tool did you use for the actual aligning?
|
Nice going! I'd cut off the heads and grind the bolts to a conical point for greater precision, but that should work well enough as-is. I'm curious about how far off the alignment was after you spread the rear stays, was it very noticeable?
|
I used a set of machinists' jacks to spread the frame. I had to spread it all the way to 175 mm before it took. I used a string test to align it and a large crescent wrench to align the drops. The drops were a bit wide at the back and bottom.
|
Originally Posted by Lewis_Moon
(Post 14024880)
I used a set of machinists' jacks to spread the frame. I had to spread it all the way to 175 mm before it took. I used a string test to align it and a large crescent wrench to align the drops. The drops were a bit wide at the back and bottom.
With proper Park or Campy dropoout/fork end alignment tools there's no way you'd need to go out to 175mm before it takes. |
I use a long 2x4 to spread the rear triangle, using string to check it for alignment. Then I use the park tools to bring the dropouts back to where they should be,
|
Great idea, Lewis. I bought the Park tool for about $63.
|
Originally Posted by miamijim
(Post 14024895)
With proper Park or Campy dropoout/fork end alignment tools there's no way you'd need to go out to 175mm before it takes.
|
That arrangement will only be as good as the quality (precision) of the manufacturing of the bolts & nuts, which can run the spectrum of very poor to right on. ;) That and the condition of the frame to tool contact surface. (a machinist here)
Allen head bolts as you have chosen are a better shot at quality. You can also increase your chances by going with NF (national fine) threads n' nuts, as they are typically of higher precision! |
Off topic:
From this picture I can see the chain hanger attached to the seat stay in the upper right of the photo. My '83 Paramount has this same feature. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-l...0/P1020127.JPG Have you decided on the components to build this frame? How many speeds in the rear? 8, 9, 10, or 11? Should look really nice when you are done. |
I'm going with an 8 sp ShimErgo system. I have a one of the newer Record aluminum cranks that I'm polishing to go with it. I may re-anodize it...those things are SOFT! Rolls saddle, Cinelli bars, DA derailleurs (for now) Look pedals, Superbe brakes...a real Frankenbike. I'd love to have it be full C Record with newer Ergo shifters/derailleurs, but for now, this is what I can afford. I'm talking with the guy that will be powdercoating it and hopefully it will be done by the first weekend in April.
|
Originally Posted by Maxturbo
(Post 14026172)
That arrangement will only be as good as the quality (precision) of the manufacturing of the bolts & nuts, which can run the spectrum of very poor to right on. ;) That and the condition of the frame to tool contact surface. (a machinist here)
Allen head bolts as you have chosen are a better shot at quality. You can also increase your chances by going with NF (national fine) threads n' nuts, as they are typically of higher precision! |
DOn't forget to algin the derailleur hanger !!
|
Originally Posted by miamijim
(Post 14024895)
So they really weren't 'aignment tools' but were a tool to check the alignment?
With proper Park or Campy dropoout/fork end alignment tools there's no way you'd need to go out to 175mm before it takes. |
Originally Posted by Michael Angelo
(Post 14026552)
DOn't forget to algin the derailleur hanger !!
|
When you do your aligning there, make sure that you have the wheel in place (or a dummy hub or a faux axle) tightened down securely to pull the stays / drop-outs into their "as ridden" position.
On my ST's dropout / DR hanger bracket area, I found it to be out a bunch. I used a machinist straight edge and then a couple of large (oppose pulling) Crescent wrenches to pull it around, not just in the vertical plane, but it needed a horizontal tweaking too! It's tricky sighting down a strait edge, but it can be done. It takes enough hands and some comparative (to the stays, chain rings and frame) measuring n' eyeballing to get r' done. |
Originally Posted by Maxturbo
(Post 14027223)
When you do your aligning there, make sure that you have the wheel in place (or a dummy hub or a faux axle) tightened down securely to pull the stays / drop-outs into their "as ridden" position.
On my ST's dropout / DR hanger bracket area, I found it to be out a bunch. I used a machinist straight edge and then a couple of large (oppose pulling) Crescent wrenches to pull it around, not just in the vertical plane, but it needed a horizontal tweaking too! It's tricky sighting down a strait edge, but it can be done. It takes enough hands and some comparative (to the stays and frame) measuring n' eyeballing to get r' done. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:24 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.