Just got through cold setting the new Paramount to 130 and straightening the frame. This is what I used to align the drops:


Two M10 machine allen bolts with four nuts. Less than $6 at the local hardware store. And I didn't have to cut an axle (which I don't have).
And then there is this:

so what technique/tool did you use for the actual aligning?

Nice going! I'd cut off the heads and grind the bolts to a conical point for greater precision, but that should work well enough as-is. I'm curious about how far off the alignment was after you spread the rear stays, was it very noticeable?

I used a set of machinists' jacks to spread the frame. I had to spread it all the way to 175 mm before it took. I used a string test to align it and a large crescent wrench to align the drops. The drops were a bit wide at the back and bottom.

So they really weren't 'aignment tools' but were a tool to check the alignment?

With proper Park or Campy dropoout/fork end alignment tools there's no way you'd need to go out to 175mm before it takes.

I use a long 2x4 to spread the rear triangle, using string to check it for alignment. Then I use the park tools to bring the dropouts back to where they should be,

Great idea, Lewis. I bought the Park tool for about $63.

I'm happy to accept that this is so - but don't understand why it should be. How do the proper tools make the setting take earlier?

That arrangement will only be as good as the quality (precision) of the manufacturing of the bolts & nuts, which can run the spectrum of very poor to right on. That and the condition of the frame to tool contact surface. (a machinist here)

Allen head bolts as you have chosen are a better shot at quality. You can also increase your chances by going with NF (national fine) threads n' nuts, as they are typically of higher precision!

Off topic:

From this picture I can see the chain hanger attached to the seat stay in the upper right of the photo. My '83 Paramount has this same feature.



Have you decided on the components to build this frame? How many speeds in the rear? 8, 9, 10, or 11? Should look really nice when you are done.

I'm going with an 8 sp ShimErgo system. I have a one of the newer Record aluminum cranks that I'm polishing to go with it. I may re-anodize it...those things are SOFT! Rolls saddle, Cinelli bars, DA derailleurs (for now) Look pedals, Superbe brakes...a real Frankenbike. I'd love to have it be full C Record with newer Ergo shifters/derailleurs, but for now, this is what I can afford. I'm talking with the guy that will be powdercoating it and hopefully it will be done by the first weekend in April.

If I had a lathe I could probably turn down the heads a smidge and square up the edges to make them a bit more precise. For now I just swap sides and turn them a couple of times to check them. To tell you the truth, I'm not one to be super worried by absolutely perfect alignment. This close is close enough. I'm sure someone will become all verklempt over that statement, but oh well.....

DOn't forget to algin the derailleur hanger !!

Aligning the drops didn't require going out to 175 millimeters, obviously. Spreading the triangle did.

Looks like I'll be making a tool for that, too....

When you do your aligning there, make sure that you have the wheel in place (or a dummy hub or a faux axle) tightened down securely to pull the stays / drop-outs into their "as ridden" position.

On my ST's dropout / DR hanger bracket area, I found it to be out a bunch. I used a machinist straight edge and then a couple of large (oppose pulling) Crescent wrenches to pull it around, not just in the vertical plane, but it needed a horizontal tweaking too! It's tricky sighting down a strait edge, but it can be done. It takes enough hands and some comparative (to the stays, chain rings and frame) measuring n' eyeballing to get r' done.

I have a lot of my Dad's Sterrett tools. I should be able to cobble something together.