Nuovo record ? I don't get all the hype
#52
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well, yeah. You can re-build them, but you gotta have the parts, some of which are pretty scarce and getting more so every day.
Also, don't try to replace the pivot body pins and bronze bushings unless you're seriously bored. And maybe not even then. Don't ask me how I know this. Still trying to succeed at this, but I know it's do-able. :>
Also, don't try to replace the pivot body pins and bronze bushings unless you're seriously bored. And maybe not even then. Don't ask me how I know this. Still trying to succeed at this, but I know it's do-able. :>
Chombi
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Yeah but I bet the Jubilee will index on 8 and the NR won't index on 9 . . . .
#55
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The other Huret derailleur that worked reasonably well was the Svelto. It's ironic that Huret's best units were the unconventional ones. The abominable Allvit and Luxe were designed for the jockey wheel to follow the taper of the freewheel by mounting the parallelogram upside-down at the bottom of a rigid arm hanging from the dropout.
For the most part, European rear derailleurs from this period were copies of Record and Gran Sport. The only unit that offered a significant performance improvement, the Sun Tour Cyclone, had a patent on its key feature, the slant parallelogram.
#58
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Move some spacers from the drive side to the non, and redish the wheel. Instant nine speed Jubilee! Seriously, that's a LOT of room between the last gear, and the dropout?
I like the way NR looks well enough, but I cannot stand how finicky the shifting is. You have to hit it spot on or it's chattering. Cyclone drops into gear(up and down) with ease.,,,,BD
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#59
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"Move some spacers from the drive side to the non, and redish the wheel. Instant nine speed Jubilee! Seriously, that's a LOT of room between the last gear, and the dropout?"
It does look like about 10 or 11mm from the inside face of the dropout and the outer face of the small cog.
I've found that you only need 3.5mm from the cog to the dropout, as long as the cog is small enough to let the chain clear the end of the seat stay and as long as the chain is 8-speed or narrower.
I always assemble axles to that length on the drive side, so as to increase wheel and axle strength.
That poor NR derailer is really reaching in, due to the claw hanger for one, plus the extra alxle length AND the relatively large cassette diameter. I'm surprised it clears low gear, since the parallelogram is oriented opposite from a Huret Allvit and so reduces the chain gap.
It does look like about 10 or 11mm from the inside face of the dropout and the outer face of the small cog.
I've found that you only need 3.5mm from the cog to the dropout, as long as the cog is small enough to let the chain clear the end of the seat stay and as long as the chain is 8-speed or narrower.
I always assemble axles to that length on the drive side, so as to increase wheel and axle strength.
That poor NR derailer is really reaching in, due to the claw hanger for one, plus the extra alxle length AND the relatively large cassette diameter. I'm surprised it clears low gear, since the parallelogram is oriented opposite from a Huret Allvit and so reduces the chain gap.
#60
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Am in the process of refitting my Ron Cooper in some period correct NR... am running a close ratio Regina 7 speed and the NR loves this. The change from Cyclone Mk2 parts means I downgraded my front d and added a few grams.
Crank is presently a Sugino and think I will fit a Stronglight double and keep my Zeus centre pulls... I really like stopping this well.
Crank is presently a Sugino and think I will fit a Stronglight double and keep my Zeus centre pulls... I really like stopping this well.
#61
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The only reason that popped into my head was that I ran into the same problem on a 71 Super Course. The stock derailleur was nearly halfway extended by the time it reached the small cog. Once it got nearer the biggest gear, the shifter was pointing sharply to the rear. I fixed the axle spacing and it finally reached all of the gears, Unfortunately though, it was still the stock derailleur.,,,,BD
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#62
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Fast forward even further to about today, and a bikey friend at work shakes his head when he sees me buying Masi and Bianchi iron, both with SR or NR derailleurs, and obviously no index shifting. He thinks I'm nuts, but I know better. Now, on my Madone I sometimes reach for the levers on the downtube to shift and grab thin air. On my Masi I sometimes try to tap my levers to shift. The solution is obviously to sell the Madone so as not to continue to confuse my remaining neurons.
I just bought a bare Medici frame (probably '77 or '78 based on the serial number). My current plans are to build it up with old Superbe components.
S
#63
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Reliability, yes, and also durability. The most crashworthy stuff ever. I worked as a bike mechanic in NR's heyday. I fixed lots of problems that resulted from crashes. You don't appreciate the merits of this stuff until you weigh in how it holds up to heavy use.
And let's get specific about performance. What performs badly?
The RD doesn't always shift quickly or precisely but it shifts under heavy loads! And it is tough as a rock!
FD flawless.
Pedals tough as rocks. You have to like quill or track pedals, though.
BB another rock. Extremely durable.
Headset is touchy. If you install it in a milled and faced frame and fork, it will be precise and durable, and it will offer very low friction. But imprecise installation will give a short service life.
The cranks are flawed. They have a tendency to break but only for strong or tall riders. I feel safe with mine.
The brakes are excellent and misunderstood. Comparing them with modern brakes, people try them by squeezing the levers lightly, because that's adequate for modern brakes. You have to squeeze them hard. But they will stop as well as anything. It helps to have large and strong hands. Modulation is unbeaten because leverage is low, which is also the reason you have to apply so much force. But they are excellent and also super durable. Levers are excellent, too.
And let's get specific about performance. What performs badly?
The RD doesn't always shift quickly or precisely but it shifts under heavy loads! And it is tough as a rock!
FD flawless.
Pedals tough as rocks. You have to like quill or track pedals, though.
BB another rock. Extremely durable.
Headset is touchy. If you install it in a milled and faced frame and fork, it will be precise and durable, and it will offer very low friction. But imprecise installation will give a short service life.
The cranks are flawed. They have a tendency to break but only for strong or tall riders. I feel safe with mine.
The brakes are excellent and misunderstood. Comparing them with modern brakes, people try them by squeezing the levers lightly, because that's adequate for modern brakes. You have to squeeze them hard. But they will stop as well as anything. It helps to have large and strong hands. Modulation is unbeaten because leverage is low, which is also the reason you have to apply so much force. But they are excellent and also super durable. Levers are excellent, too.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#65
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The brakes are excellent and misunderstood. Comparing them with modern brakes, people try them by squeezing the levers lightly, because that's adequate for modern brakes. You have to squeeze them hard. But they will stop as well as anything. It helps to have large and strong hands. Modulation is unbeaten because leverage is low, which is also the reason you have to apply so much force. But they are excellent and also super durable. Levers are excellent, too.
But I now have NR brakes on my '78 Eisentraut (no modern Campy brakes are long enough), and I am pleased with them. I pull on Campy Ergo 10-speed brifters to pull the calipers to push Matthauser brake blocks (in the original Campy brake pad holders), and they work just fine. Yes, I have to pull a bit harder than I do with dual pivots on my other bikes, but the NRs get the job done with no problems. I am 6'3" and 275#, and I live in a hilly area. I was a tad skeptical about this set-up at first, but no longer am.
I attribute some of the good performance to modern levers with their better leverage, some to the inherently good design and build of the NR brakes (40+ years on and still in great shape), and quite a bit to the vast improvement in brake pads represented by Matthauser and its successors. (I noticed an amazing difference in braking power on a pair of Dia Compe sidepull Weinmann copies going from the original pads to Kool Stops.) The NR RD may no longer be able to keep up (but Lordy, it sure is gorgeous) but the NR sidepulls still can.
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#66
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Because Campagnolo is magic, of course. What's wrong with you?
I'm convinced 90% of bicycle componentry is hype. I fell victim to it myself many times. Back in the day I slowly upgraded my first Shimano 600 bike to all Campagnolo because Campagnolo was "the best". If it costs four times as much it must be better, right? The performance gain was minimal, if any, and probably more psychological than anything else. The pros rode Campy because it was good stuff, they probably got it for free and Campagnolo knew how to market their product. If the Pro riders we admired rode Campagnolo parts, of course WE wanted to ride Campagnolo parts. Shimano eventually learned how to do the same thing. Suntour made some of the finest components ever but they didn't know how to play the marketing game, now they are gone and what a shame that is.
But damn that Campy Kool-Aid tasted good.
I'm convinced 90% of bicycle componentry is hype. I fell victim to it myself many times. Back in the day I slowly upgraded my first Shimano 600 bike to all Campagnolo because Campagnolo was "the best". If it costs four times as much it must be better, right? The performance gain was minimal, if any, and probably more psychological than anything else. The pros rode Campy because it was good stuff, they probably got it for free and Campagnolo knew how to market their product. If the Pro riders we admired rode Campagnolo parts, of course WE wanted to ride Campagnolo parts. Shimano eventually learned how to do the same thing. Suntour made some of the finest components ever but they didn't know how to play the marketing game, now they are gone and what a shame that is.
But damn that Campy Kool-Aid tasted good.
Yes, there was cachet. Campy didn't advertise enough to say there was hype. They earned a reputation, then the Japanese companies competed in a somewhat different market sector: the higher end consumer and the increasingly popular tourist and sport-tourist, not the professional racing team, or the gotta-have-the-best consumer.
So one may criticize Campy for not beating Shimano at its game, but keep in mind it took perhaps 30 years of competition for Shimano to draw even with Campy in the pro peleton, and beat (well, maybe) Campy at its game. And recall that Campy created that game - selling complete state of the art racing gruppi to the pro peleton.
I still like the Kool-aid.
#67
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NR RDs shifted OK, but I do have to admit thst it required more overshift action at the lever than any other RD I ever used, so it was like shifting a truck, while my Cyclone MkII and Superbe Pro RDs shifted like sport car transmissions.
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#68
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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The NR RD with Henry III's long cage that I put on my Masi doesn't shift quite as well as the Cyclone on my Bianchi, but it shifts well enough. And it looks great. Of course, the Cyclone looks great too.
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I should work on that spacing on the red bike, though.
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6'5, 200lbs, I go through a bb and free hub each season on a recumbent. I will have to play it my ear i guess.
Pb
#72
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I'm 6'3" 215LBs. Have Four bikes with NR/SR cranks of varying lengths. Never had a problem.
#73
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I don't get the hype either. Its pretty, but, it shifts poor.
As for reliability, well put it this way, I've suntours of the same vintage and they still shift better then the NR. Its very agricultural compared to a Cyclone. Plus the short cage Cyclone looks way nicer with the black lettering IMO.
As for reliability, well put it this way, I've suntours of the same vintage and they still shift better then the NR. Its very agricultural compared to a Cyclone. Plus the short cage Cyclone looks way nicer with the black lettering IMO.
#74
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All i know is that i could put my 71 NR rd on flea bay(it came with a 71 sports tourer and is practically new) and watch the bidding begin.
#75
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