So I have the Sante hubbed wheels from the Circuit laying around, and an 85 Schwinn Super Sport frame, so I get the brilliant idea I am going to build a single speed out of them. I get the whole using spacers thing, and I know about the spacer kits available that "should" work on this freehub. But... It has the outer threaded freehub, and from the looks of it, it doesn't have the dual threads(inner/outer) that I'd need to use a standard lockring. Does anyone make a retro kit that has a lockring for the outer threaded freehubs. I think it would look kinda ugly with a big cog sticking out on the end, just to hold it all together. Will a BB lockring fit those threads?,,,,BD

32 views without so much as an "I don't know". I guess I should have posted on SS/FG ,,,,BD

I would say no. you would have mickeymouse something on your own.

Easiest way is to just swap freehubs, or at least that's what I did on my last UG that did not have internal threading. I "borrowed" a freehub off a donor MTB wheel I had laying around that was the same width. I did not have to change the axle.

Well, I was more than likely going to rebuild the hub anyway, so that's an option. If I can avoid changing to axle too, respacing the frame, etc. I also noticed the splines for the cogs are all evenly spaced, IE: no wide space. I have a thread going in SS/FG now...

The donor frame.. Shooting for a solid pastel green with gold pinstriped lugs, etc. The paint is completely trashed, ptherwise I would just polish it up and go ith it. I have the white saddle from the Comete(SuperCorsa knockoff) and thnking white vinyl wrap. Who knows maybe I will change my mind about the color, saddle/wrap too.,,,,BD

https://bikecatalogs.org/SCHWINN/1985...1985Ltwt10.JPG

why do you need a lockring if you're making a SS? i thought that was just for fixed gear

It's a cassette hub, where all of the gears/spacers are stacked on, then tightened down with a lockring on the end near the dropout. THIS freehub uses the last cog as the lockring, so if I make a a single speed, there will be the driving cog, then one out on the end doing nothing but looking strange. If I can find a lockring of some sort, it will take the place of the cog on the end.,,,,BD

Quick google of "uniglide threading" says MAYBE

You can grind the teeth off of the smallest cog with the bench grinder. You can get a fairly round "ring", and, if you paint it to match the FW body, nobody will know. Problem solved!

Just leave two for removal

Just found the answer! On this page. Same as a regular freewheel, and a BB lockring. Cool~ Now I just have to file/dremel the wide notch on the cog, find a BB lockring(EASY) and I am good to go.,,,,BD

I promise to post pics of the ugliness, before the repaint/powdering.

https://ulikecooking.blogspot.com/201...-uniglide.html

that site says you could just get a track cog and put it on the end?

And how's that different than a UG locknut (which is a cog)?

This is good to know

The track cog wouldn't have anything to bottom out on, unless maybe I used two lockrings, and even then it would be turning the same way? Sounds like a bad idea to me, without the flared spacer kit, which is already on the way. The Surly cog is a lot beefier than a single cassette cog too, which ill make it last longer. Factor in that someday I might want to have the wheel with the original gears on it. The wheel donor bike was an EXTREMELY low mileage 88 Schwinn Circuit. We're talking NO wear on the rim surfaces. It's essentially a new cassette, which I wouldn't want to grind any teeth off of.,,,,BD

Ohhh, now I get what you're saying, have spacers into the thread area, then tighten the cog down. Still, I already ordered the parts, might as well do it the way it was meant to be done.,,,,BD

yeah using spacers and putting a cog on the end seems like the easiest approach but whatever works..

As long as the chainline happens to coincide with the short amount of threads though. And then there's wear and tear on the freehub too. Starting out from a dead stop out of the saddle on the very end of the freehub can't be good long term.,,,,BD

Got the Surly cog in and guess what?? It has the SAME spline spacing as my freehub. I have seen a few cassettes that fit this way, the splines are like mine on the cogs, but leaves an open space on the wide part of the freehub. So, it slipped right on with no modification at all. The flared spacers are another story however. The 7 speed freehub was not wide enough to use them at all, not even just the two by themselves. So, I essentially paid 20 bucks for some normal cog spacers I could have got for free. Oh well, I am not that concerned. It's done!

Surly cassette cogs are OUTSTANDING! 1/4" thick where it meets the freehub, and then tapers down. Awesome finish, and drilled too. Very happy with that purchase.

Next up is to strip and polish the freehub spacers, to add a little bling back there. I also found perforated vinyl bar tape at www.plentyofbikes.com Mostly a fixie source, but they have ALL of the perforated vinyl wrap colors, at 9 bucks a package!

Powercoating soon. Solid pastel green with gold lug striping is the plan, but if some other color hits me right while I am dropping the frame off... So far the project is going smoothly.,,,,BD