Frozen/Tight Bottom Bracket Help Needed
#1
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Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Frozen/Tight Bottom Bracket Help Needed
Decided to clean and repack the Sakae BB on the '79 Motobecane Super Mirage today. Left side was loosened very nicely and when going over to the drive side, that sucker wont budge. I'm applying the "righty-loosey" left hand thread rotation and even whacked it with a hammer to the tight direction to try and break it loose (an old mechanics trick). It's not moving and I've applied ample pressure with large channel locks. I cant get the pipe wrench on the one side (it's the 2-sided cup adjuster) so I'm most likely going to let it sit with a penetrant and try to hammer tap the channel locks.
Any tips or help you could offer?
Any tips or help you could offer?
Last edited by OldsCOOL; 06-16-12 at 11:49 AM.
#2
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From: Ontario
I've used a shallow container with boiling water, see other advice here: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ixed-bb-cup!!?
#4
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If it's French threaded, the fixed cup is also RH thread.
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html
Scroll about 2/3 down the page
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html
Scroll about 2/3 down the page
#5
Thread Starter
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
#6
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
If it's French threaded, the fixed cup is also RH thread.
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html
Scroll about 2/3 down the page
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html
Scroll about 2/3 down the page
#7
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
If it's French threaded, the fixed cup is also RH thread.
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html
Scroll about 2/3 down the page
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html
Scroll about 2/3 down the page
#8
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Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Ok, let's give this another try. 
Thanx, Bill!
Cant wait to see how ugly it is in there.

Thanx, Bill!
Cant wait to see how ugly it is in there.
#9
Thrifty Bill

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Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
+1 Really doesn't matter the brand of bottom bracket. Some french bikes from that era had french bb, some had Swiss, not many were using the british standard yet. BB cups will be marked differently depending on the threading. I've got a 1979 Motobecane with Swiss threading, I used to have a 1982 with Swiss threading, and I have another 1979 Motobecane with French threading....
#11
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Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Ok, so far no budging and with decent leverage on the cup with a pipe wrench and frame braced up against the wall, turning the cup with a counter-clockwise right hand thread turn.
#12
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
SR-5D.....35xP1. So according to this there is no "accordingly". Unless I'm missing something.
Ok, so far no budging and with decent leverage on the cup with a pipe wrench and frame braced up against the wall, turning the cup with a counter-clockwise right hand thread turn.
Ok, so far no budging and with decent leverage on the cup with a pipe wrench and frame braced up against the wall, turning the cup with a counter-clockwise right hand thread turn.
#13
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Ok, for posterior, I mean preposterous.....I mean, for posterity.....
The threads on this '79 Super Mirage are LEFT threaded. Clockwise to remove, counterclockwise to tighten.
The threads on this '79 Super Mirage are LEFT threaded. Clockwise to remove, counterclockwise to tighten.
#14
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oh yes unknown thread direction!
been there.
1967 vespa supersport engine case,
rear wheel bearing,
used the tool would not budge
welded a pipe on the lock ring-wont budge
welded a huge lever on and heated the case-something gave!
the case cracked, I was forcing the lock ring deeper in and the case could not take it.
found a replacement case and will forevr remember left hand thread.
been there.
1967 vespa supersport engine case,
rear wheel bearing,
used the tool would not budge
welded a pipe on the lock ring-wont budge
welded a huge lever on and heated the case-something gave!
the case cracked, I was forcing the lock ring deeper in and the case could not take it.
found a replacement case and will forevr remember left hand thread.
#15
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,358
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
oh yes unknown thread direction!
been there.
1967 vespa supersport engine case,
rear wheel bearing,
used the tool would not budge
welded a pipe on the lock ring-wont budge
welded a huge lever on and heated the case-something gave!
the case cracked, I was forcing the lock ring deeper in and the case could not take it.
found a replacement case and will forevr remember left hand thread.
been there.
1967 vespa supersport engine case,
rear wheel bearing,
used the tool would not budge
welded a pipe on the lock ring-wont budge
welded a huge lever on and heated the case-something gave!
the case cracked, I was forcing the lock ring deeper in and the case could not take it.
found a replacement case and will forevr remember left hand thread.

Ok, it's all cleaned/lubed and assembled. Soooooo nice.
The bike has clearly been stored for many years as the second owner told me when I bought it for 60.00 last August. In the bottom of the shell there were a few bugs and one small bough of cedar....but zero rust. The cups were not scored, the bearing races were caked with crappy old grease but in great shape and the cages were not distorted. I'm impressed with the condition of this little used, long stored '79.
#16
Bianchi Goddess



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You do know they call that a "fixed cup" for a reason yes?
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#17
curmudgineer
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Chicago SW burbs
Bikes: 2 many 2 fit here
I'm late to the party but I just wanted to confuse the issue by posting to a thread started by my buddy OldsCOOL 
Yes, French bike BB roulette, which way, hmmn... Do you feel lucky today? Well, do ya, punk?!!
Yes, French bike BB roulette, which way, hmmn... Do you feel lucky today? Well, do ya, punk?!!
#18
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Good to hear you got it out. This is what I use when Fixed cups don't cooperate.
#19
Used to be Conspiratemus

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From: Hamilton ON Canada
Late to the party, too, but I would never try to remove a fixed cup unless it was needing to be replaced -- yes, as BG says, they're called that for a reason! Wiping out the old grease, maybe chasing with a solvent-dampened rag, close look through the BB shell with a flashlight. If it's not pitted and corroded, -- and it hardly ever will be: those cups are pretty tough -- in goes the new grease and balls, that's it.
Now, lacking the proper tools, how did you get it driven in hard enough so that it stays "fixed"?
Now, lacking the proper tools, how did you get it driven in hard enough so that it stays "fixed"?
#20
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#21
Thread Starter
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Late to the party, too, but I would never try to remove a fixed cup unless it was needing to be replaced -- yes, as BG says, they're called that for a reason! Wiping out the old grease, maybe chasing with a solvent-dampened rag, close look through the BB shell with a flashlight. If it's not pitted and corroded, -- and it hardly ever will be: those cups are pretty tough -- in goes the new grease and balls, that's it.
Now, lacking the proper tools, how did you get it driven in hard enough so that it stays "fixed"?
Now, lacking the proper tools, how did you get it driven in hard enough so that it stays "fixed"?

The pipe wrench grabbed pretty good for tightening.
#22
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
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They are called a fixed cup since the other is called an adjustable cup.
NOT because it's supposed to become a permanent part of the BB, which tends to happen if never removed.
NOT because it's supposed to become a permanent part of the BB, which tends to happen if never removed.
#23
Used to be Conspiratemus

Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Hamilton ON Canada
Good point, I'll give you that. I suppose if I was going over a used bike whose maintenance history I didn't know, I would probably get that fixed cup out at some point. But honest, on my own bikes I leave 'em in there, ...greased, not left out in the rain, etc. And without proper tools to get them out and screw them back in you can do more harm than good. Just sayin'.
#24
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No scratches or nicks.....no damage, today.
#25
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One 17" adjustable wrench with sharp edged jaws. One Big Bolt. Some muscle.
I have never failed to remove even the stuckest fixed cup with this method during a Bottom Bracket Rebuild...

I have never failed to remove even the stuckest fixed cup with this method during a Bottom Bracket Rebuild...

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