Need Advice ASAP: Cannondale 2.8 Road Bike
#1
Thread Starter
Rook
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: Motobecane FLY Team Titanium 29er and Motobecane Borix X9 FATTY
Need Advice ASAP: Cannondale 2.8 Road Bike
Hi all, I am contemplating whether or not I should purchase a particular early 90's Cannondale. I don't know what model it is as there are no decals on the frame that indicate it, but it says 2.8 Aluminum on the frame. I am a bigger/taller guy so the frame is a 63cm frame. I know it has a Shimano 600 rear derailleur and Shimano RX100 front derailleur, shifters, brakes, crankset, and hubs with Mavic Wheels. The bike overall is in excellent condition with no rust and very nice/clean paint.
I know that prices may differ by market and I just so happen to live in an area that over values bikes (Portland, OR) so I was wondering if anyone can chime in and tell me if this is a good bike and what you would pay for it or tell me what the fair market value would normally for this type of road bike with the mentioned components.
THANK YOU all in advance very much for your time.
I know that prices may differ by market and I just so happen to live in an area that over values bikes (Portland, OR) so I was wondering if anyone can chime in and tell me if this is a good bike and what you would pay for it or tell me what the fair market value would normally for this type of road bike with the mentioned components.
THANK YOU all in advance very much for your time.
#2
Cyclotouriste


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 11,792
Likes: 7,015
From: South Holland, NL
Bikes: Yes, please.
Rust would be quite a surprise, as it's an alu frame. I have an R900, which is both light and stiff compared to the steel jobs I usually ride. It feels very quick, which is very nice, but if you keep your tires at 130 psi and ride on not-so-smooth roads, you might want to stick some rubber between your molars. I've no idea of prices on your side of the pond.
#4
In Portland, that bike with slightly mismatched components (600/RX) but clean, needs nothing and fits you = $350-450 depending on general condition. Tip: check the backs of the brake calipers. First thing I look at on a used bike. If it's been left outside, stored improperly or just ridden hard and then given a quick cleaning, there will be rust, gunk and sticky dirt on the back sides. If they are squeaky clean, that's a good sign & means it's either led an easy life or has been thoroughly gone over. Place to look #2 is the brake hoods. Not an easy item to replace on an older bike (they tend to be hard to find), but there's no way to hide the beating they take on a high mileage bike.
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#5
Cyclotouriste


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 11,792
Likes: 7,015
From: South Holland, NL
Bikes: Yes, please.

And another € 100 or so for the parts (secondhand DA 7400 gruppo, new Acera brifters, bar, grips, cables and housing) to build this:
So, $200 for a complete bike, in good working order, would be reasonable over here, I guess.
Edit: I'm getting rather good at these NDS pics!
Last edited by non-fixie; 07-06-12 at 03:44 PM. Reason: non-drive side rodeo
#6
Banned
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 12,585
Likes: 6,538
From: TN
I paid $75 for a pristine 94 Bridgestone RB2 with RX100 components. Nothing in common with your prospect except the age and the components. I also paid $100 for an 85 Cannondale SR?00 but the components are trashed and it's purple. I think I overpaid....
#8
Banned.
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,199
Likes: 1,463
see, it all evens out..
#9
Thread Starter
Rook
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: Motobecane FLY Team Titanium 29er and Motobecane Borix X9 FATTY
I decided to take the consensus advise from this forum so I moved on and spent a little bit more for a Gunnar Roadie that I am just ecstatic to get out and ride. Thank you everyone!
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