Spring cleaning
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 86
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Spring cleaning
So, I just got my first c&v in the mail (I'm actually still waiting), and it just needs pedals. But I spent too much money on the bike (actually way way too much) and must wait. However, I need to play with this thing. I'm pretty handy, and have tools (auto/home(i love parenthesis)), but I don't know the first thing about marinating a bike. Should I disassemble anything in particular? Any moving parts that should be left alone? would love some help, even if its just a link to a guy that asked this 3 weeks ago.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: Stettler, Alberta
Bikes: Trek 800, Free Spirit Town and Country, 80's Norco Nomad
Honestly, I would find a really really cheap bike similar to it and practice on that. It really depends on condition as to whether or not you need to completely tear it down or just to a light rehab and enjoy it. You don't want to get bogged down in a major overhaul just to lose interest and never ride it.
Key points?
Brakes. If this is a keeper, find yourself some nice new pads and try out the cables. If they are nice and free and look ok, then leave them. If they show resistance, replace them. Take the brakes apart and clean and lube the moving parts, really depends on the kind of brakes as to how you do this and how much you lube.
Next is wheel truing...you'll need a spoke tool for that and if you've never done it before there are lots of articles and videos to show you how. Just remember to do little movements to make your wheel really straight. I do this after the brakes as they usually give me more of a hard time and once the wheel's are trued, it doesn't take much to realign them again, just a quirk I have.
Wheel bearings: Clean everything (from the little balls and races) and repack them with grease. Tighten to the point where there is no play in the bearing but its not tight...sort of magic trick to get it right, but keep doing it until you think you've nailed it. It's a pretty narrow span between too loose and too tight.
Finally...drivetrain. Chain and derailers if it has them. I'd replace the chain if there is any sign of wear or excessive rust on a keeper bike. Lightly oil the rest, the rear derailer has those little idler wheels that love to be greased now and then. You'll need to align/adjust things for sure, once again, the internet has you covered for that.
On keeper bikes, I replace things as original doesn't really matter too much on things like chains and cables. On bikes I sell, I tend to rehab them...takes more time but to take something that didn't work and make it work feels nice.
Key points?
Brakes. If this is a keeper, find yourself some nice new pads and try out the cables. If they are nice and free and look ok, then leave them. If they show resistance, replace them. Take the brakes apart and clean and lube the moving parts, really depends on the kind of brakes as to how you do this and how much you lube.
Next is wheel truing...you'll need a spoke tool for that and if you've never done it before there are lots of articles and videos to show you how. Just remember to do little movements to make your wheel really straight. I do this after the brakes as they usually give me more of a hard time and once the wheel's are trued, it doesn't take much to realign them again, just a quirk I have.
Wheel bearings: Clean everything (from the little balls and races) and repack them with grease. Tighten to the point where there is no play in the bearing but its not tight...sort of magic trick to get it right, but keep doing it until you think you've nailed it. It's a pretty narrow span between too loose and too tight.
Finally...drivetrain. Chain and derailers if it has them. I'd replace the chain if there is any sign of wear or excessive rust on a keeper bike. Lightly oil the rest, the rear derailer has those little idler wheels that love to be greased now and then. You'll need to align/adjust things for sure, once again, the internet has you covered for that.
On keeper bikes, I replace things as original doesn't really matter too much on things like chains and cables. On bikes I sell, I tend to rehab them...takes more time but to take something that didn't work and make it work feels nice.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,473
Likes: 29
From: Madison, WI
Yeah. Look up Sheldon Brown and then key words for what you want to do. For example "sheldon brown wheel bearing adjustment" will give you Sheldons page on adjusting hub cones. If your wheels spins smoothly and freely and seems like it's been maintained recently, it may not need re-greasing. Same with the headset and bottom bracket bearings. Otherwise, as mentioned before, check the chain and freewheel for wear, brake and shifter cables, etc. I would recommend just going to a local bike co-op if you have one or posing a WTB on your local CL in the bike section and seeing if anyone has any cheapo pedals you can put on it for now. I'd bet you can easily find some cheap flat pedals for $5. And feel free to use flat pedals in general. You don't need toe clips or clip-less and special shoes. I ride flat pedals on my bikes. ...Not $5 ones, but flat pedals none-the-less. What kind of pedals you get just depends on what kind of riding you want to do. If you don't care about going very quickly or accelerating quickly in a race, I don't think there's a big need to have your feet stuck to the pedals so that you can get max power by pulling up with your back foot while you push down with your front foot.
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 86
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Thank you much. All solid advic e. I wouldn'thave thought of it but I do have a shty old xmart bike out by my shed that ive been meaning to dump. Takes up a lot less space broken down!
Thanks again guys, really.
Thanks again guys, really.







