Removing Powder Coating?
08-02-12, 07:37 PM
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Removing Powder Coating?
I am looking at a frame & fork that have been powder coated. Can it be removed and return the frame to"real" paint? How difficult is it?
08-02-12, 07:39 PM
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I would ask at a powder coating shop. I thnk it can be stripped and then sandblasted. But I'd imagine it's a lot harder than getting paint off.
08-02-12, 08:32 PM
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Paint stripper. It tales awhile and makes a mess!! stripper or powder coating shop will heat it and blast it off. I have used jasco paint stripper
08-02-12, 10:05 PM
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Aircraft Stripper and high pressure water (even just garden hose with sprayer)...easy peasy and fast.
Rinse and wash the stripped frame, treat with etch + prime, and then prime as normal.
Rinse and wash the stripped frame, treat with etch + prime, and then prime as normal.
08-03-12, 12:38 AM
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yea- powdercoating just dont last.
its quick and cheap to put on, not durable to chips and scratches, and very difficult to remove.
try aircraft remover
its quick and cheap to put on, not durable to chips and scratches, and very difficult to remove.
try aircraft remover
08-03-12, 07:04 AM
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There's nothing special about Aircraft stripper. It's just a brand name. I have always used Jasco because it's sold everywhere around here.
08-03-12, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois
There's nothing special about Aircraft stripper. It's just a brand name. I have always used Jasco because it's sold everywhere around here.
On powdercoat, fresh stripper and wrapping the slathered tubes with saran wrap keeps the useful nasties doing their job.
Use the right gloves, protect yourself, use a respirator and have a bucket of clear water and rag at hand should it splatter on you.
Stripper on skin is no good.
08-03-12, 07:43 AM
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I recently stripped a frame of several coats of paint. I learned that you need the heavy black (not blue) gloves and that the gel is probably better than the spray cans for a bicycle frame. And it does, indeed, burn like a sonofa*****. I recommend long sleeves while working with it. Some soapy water nearby, as repechage recommended is a good idea.
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08-03-12, 07:54 AM
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If there is any significant rust you would be better served to have it blasted. Ask around or look up media blasting or fabrication shops. Otherwise you will strip, then sand out rust, then sand some more. Around here I can get something the size of a bike frame or truck wheel blasted for about $20.
Wear safety glasses if you use stripper. Little flecks of it fly all over even if you are careful when you apply it to areas like dropouts and seatpost clusters. Stuff is nasty. Also the orange "chemical resistant" gloves do not stand up very well.
Wear safety glasses if you use stripper. Little flecks of it fly all over even if you are careful when you apply it to areas like dropouts and seatpost clusters. Stuff is nasty. Also the orange "chemical resistant" gloves do not stand up very well.
08-03-12, 08:03 AM
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Covering with plastic wrap is a good idea. It actually works. I learned about it by reading the instructions on the can.
08-03-12, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by puchfinnland
yea- powdercoating just dont last.
its quick and cheap to put on, not durable to chips and scratches, and very difficult to remove.
try aircraft remover
its quick and cheap to put on, not durable to chips and scratches, and very difficult to remove.
try aircraft remover
Really?...in my experience good powder coating in an order of magnitude more durable than most OEM paint jobs. That's one of the selling points.
