RobbieTunes

OK, the stuff works very well, and is nice, and very reasonable.
You can install it without special tools by making a 14mm hex key out of a bolt and 3 nuts.
(A torx wrench is required to install the shifters)

However, if you want to remove the crankset...you need:

1-a 14mm hex key or socket-type hex driver.
2-an insert (much like an Octalink insert) required to hold the puller against the axle.
3-a 3-prong gear puller, with skinny prongs you can slip behind the L crank arm.

That would negate some price advantage right there.
I ended up getting a hex key set for $35 (I could have ordered a single, I suppose)
I am looking at 3-prong pullers, as no LBS around has one. They range from $25 to $50
I may try to make an insert using the Octalink one. Campy's is $40

Am there. Doing that.

I think if you move up to Centaur or Athena in level, you can avoid this problem.
Not sure, but I think they're different in some way.

trueno92

sounds complex..

still using 1050 cranks with 10sp 53/39 ultegra rings on my "campy" build..

Orrery

Thanks for the heads up. I'm in the progress of getting some tools for such an upgrade, but I'm sticking with an older square taper Centaur crankset.

Just bought a Torx25 wrench for the shifters, need to get the lockring tool (which apparently can also be used on Centaur but not Veloce BBs).

MrEss

this is the case with any of the Power-torque cranksets, right? (the ones without the Hirth joint)

RobbieTunes

I don't think so. I think it's only on the Veloce and Xenon, and I'm not sure why I'm under that impression--I think the instructions had the difference, and of course, I threw them out.

I still like the Veloce, but before I put it on the next frame, the frame is going to be 100% ready, and I don't plan to remove it, period. Right now, I'm torn between two different Columbus frames... the Italian threaded one will be a repaint, so it will be completely ready, and like new. The English threaded one will require bb cups.... other than the removal of the crankset, it's a very nice group for the peso.

Puget Pounder

Robbie, Mr. Ess is correct.

The Powertorque cranks need a gear puller while Ultra Torque stuff does not.

T-Mar

Also, the Campagnolo freehub design is far inferior to Shimano's. I just rebuilt a Veloce 10 unit for a friend and I couldn't believe the concessions they made (probably to avoid infringing on Shimano's patents). People complain about Shimano's designs and the special tools required, but Campagnolo's just as bad, if not worse. C-Record was a nightamare compared to New Dura-Ace.

Ex Pres 

I "stole" a BNIB Record 11 crank on eBay (only bidder), but wanted to change out the rings to my silver 10s rings, since the bike's 10s and I'll save 'em in case I ever go 11.

What the he.. did Campy do to these chainring bolts? 2 came loose with some effort, the hidden 5th was no issue, one was a real bugger, and one will not come loose - period. I've just about ripped the slot in the back nut clear across its surface. I guess I'm going to have to drill it out and be short one. (Probably $20 from Campy). Absolutely no reason to be that tight and maybe even locktighted. (Appears to be some substance on the threads).

Edit - I did end up drilling out the last bolt. And of course my silver bolts do not fit the new arms. The rings have the same size hole, but the new bolts have a shoulder to account for that, then are narrow where they pass through the spider. Da**

RobbieTunes

Yep, they're using a white compound on the threads. Do you have the little tool that goes in the back, with a "nose" that goes down into the nut and slots across the threads? (Like a screwdriver with a nose). I had some seemingly impossible ones on a rusted Miche crankset, and some PB blaster and that little tool worked very well.

bibliobob

Thanks for the warning. I just picked up a 1991 Pinarello Treviso with mostly 10 spd. Veloce. Luckily (I hope?), the crank is a Centaur Ultra Drive....

ColonelJLloyd 

I'm working out the details (on paper for now) of a CX build I'll get to before too long. I'll be using 10s Veloce Ergos mated to a 10s Veloce FD, Shimano 8-9-10 RD, SRAM 8s cassette and undetermined wheelset. I thought this would be a good opportunity to try a crankset with outboard bearings. I'll use a 50/34 or maybe even a 46/36 setup. I'm cool with buying a 14mm key, but I'm not sure I want to invest in the bearing puller, etc. I suspect, though, that there's at least one shop in town with the tools for the job should I need to remove them.

So, until I need to remove the crank, it's no big deal and I can handle it on my own, right?

And what exactly do I need to purchase? More than just these cups, this crankset and a 14mm hex key? I've looked at the Shimano CX specific (46/36) cranks and I do not like the look. Is there another crankset I should be considering keeping in mind that I want silver?

Puget Pounder

Outboard BBs are where it's at. I wouldn't even bother with the powertorque stuff. You can still find Ultra Torque cranks on ebay for around $100-$150 if you are staying around veloce/centaur level. I've seen some Athenas too. As for other external BB cranks, you might be able to find a SRAM Rival in silver on ebay. Those cranks are not expensive (<$100) and have more classic lines than the Shimanos. Avoid FSA Gossamers. FSA energies are very good cranks, but they do not come in silver.

As far as gearing, if you are actually rolling cross or doing significantly offroading, you are going to want something lower than 50.

What crank arm length do you run? I'll keep an eye out.

ColonelJLloyd 

Thanks for the info. I will probably never race, but I'd like to do some off road riding. I prefer 170mm arms.

Michael Angelo 

I found out about the special pullers and tools needed to service 11 speed Athena. Park tools sells a good set. Not bad on price either.