Tandem Tom

The amount of info and responses I have received has been fantastic! Thanaks.
I think this should be the last question.
So after reading all the post along with link and other outside reading am I correct to assume that there are "special" tools required to work on Campy components? I see that a very expensive chain tool is need to take the chain apart. And Is there a "special" crank puller also? What else?
Thanks

Bianchigirll 

I gave up on question two because it sounded like you were leaning towards 2000+ components.

I think you need a fancy tool to install/tighten/torque a Campi crank with that new outboard bearing system but I am not certain about removal.

Now if you were talking late 80s CampI then there is the question of......

I found these at EBikestop

https://www.ebikestop.com/campagnolo_...que-TL6500.php

https://www.ebikestop.com/campagnolo_...que-TL1000.php

But don't ask me what they do. I would have to have the tools and crank in hand to see what they do. I am sure they go with some other tool.

fietsbob

Some Campag cranks in the C-Record square-taper era had a LH thread for the extractor.

Orrery

Seems like you would need a cassette lockring tool, which doubles as a BB tool for square taper bottom brackets (Record, Chorus, Centaur). For Veloce or below there is a separate square taper tool. I'm staying away from the UT/external BB because I have no experience with that or the tools. I'm sure Robbie's recent thread about Veloce has some info on that.

New Ergos need a Torx25 wrench as well.

JohnDThompson 

If you're referring to "vintage" components, many companies followed Campy's lead in designing their own components. Bottom bracket tools, crank pullers, pedal wrenches, headset wrenches, etc. were pretty much standardized on the Campagnolo pattern across many manufacturers. If you're referring to modern components, that's an entirely different matter.

JohnDThompson 

Those models used a self-extracting system, so the left-hand threading was only an issue if the self-extractor mechanism was removed for some reason.

RobbieTunes

Installing them is one thing, and requires less in the way of tools. Removing them is another story.

I bought a 2011 Veloce 10-sp group:

Calipers, no brainer.

RD, FD, same.

Shifters need a Torx wrench, I think it's #25. Be careful, the bolt gets cross-threaded very easily.
I ended up taking out the bolt and using one from Lowe's home improvement, with a star washer.

BB needs an outer tool. I installed mine with an old oil filter wrench and a shop rag.
I'm pretty sure I'll need the tool to remove them, without damage or scuffs.

Crankset needs a 14mm drive hex key or a hex wrench that big. I installed mine by threading 3 14mm nuts onto a 14mm bolt, tightening them down until I basically had a 14mm hex "tube", and tightened it right in with a socket.

To get it out, you need the insert, which is $34 (for two-why do they sell two? maybe they assume you'll lose one...which I probably will). Then, you need about a "4-inch three-prong gear puller." I am going to approach this with caution. The key here is to be sure want this group on this frame, and just go ahead and do it, worry about the removal tools later, should the need arise. I assume in a year or so, some shops will have the tools.

The chain comes with the group, if you buy it that way, but it takes the Campy tool to get it re-attached right. I skipped that by using a KMC 10-sp set of Master Links. Then I bought a Connex-Wipperman chain, anyway, and then sold the Campy chain with a set of wheels.