BRAZUCA

Hi folks, simple question here for someone learning every day more about classic bikes. Anyway, I cleaned and degreased my Schwinn and it is time to lube the chain and moving parts. What do you guys use? Have you adapted the new dry wax options available or you are sticking to the old dino oil? There are some special chain oil for sale at my local LBS but the cost is high for a small bottle, does it make a difference? Thanks, suggestions are really welcomed.

Velognome 

The remenants of Dinos.....Bought a bottle of American Bicycle Oil cuz it was made in the USA and has an eagle on the bottle.

Pars 

I use Chain-l on the chain (https://chain-l.com/) and usually SuperLube on brake/derailleur pivots, etc. I used to use the SuperLube on the chain as well, but have tried Pedro's, etc. Never tried the dry lubes, but reading the chain-l site, these don't seem like they would be beneficial for long chain life. BF member FBinNY is the chain-l originator BTW.

I use grease on all bearings.

SirMike1983 

SAE 20 in my three speeds, 90 weight in my coaster brakes.

caloso

Pro-link.

one half wuff

BreakFree on brakes and derailleurs and lever pivots (but a light synthetic grease would probably be better here since it's covered by the hoods). Tried the chain wax on my bikes and motorcycles but didn't like the heavy residue that eventually built up and it's a bear to get off. Solvents that will attack it might not be good for other things like your paint. So I went back to PJ 1 but don't think that's the best answer either.

ColonelJLloyd 

Finish Line Ceramic Wet Lube.

JPZ66

I use the Dry Lube, as we seldom have any wet muddy conditions, but tons of nasty gritty, sandy conditions.-Joe

rootboy 

Nyoil and Phil. And then, some other oils.

due ruote 

I've tried one of the wax lubes (White Lightning) and it's better than an unlubed chain, but just not the same as a wet lube imho. Plus, you have to re-lube very frequently. I have a bottle of Sturmey Archer cycle oil that I bought about 100 years ago and I mainly use that. Tried Phil's Tenacious oil and it is indeed tenacious. Think dino in the tar pit. It's kind of good for foul weather though; just be sure to wipe off the excess. It tends to go all over; sort of turns the chain into a cotton candy machine.
Don't get me wrong, I don't doubt that it's good stuff, but this description sounds like it was written by a barker at the side show. I wonder if it will cure Ma's rheumatism too.
Ceramic WET™ Lube
Ceramic WET™ is Finish Line’s most advanced and most effective racing lubricant. This wet-style full synthetic lubricant is enhanced with a nano-sized platelets of boron nitride and micron particles of fluoropolymer. As Ceramic WET builds it’s ceramic coating on the frictional surfaces of a drivetrain, cyclists will feel the smoothness and appreciate the added quietness. Ceramic WET ensures maximum drivetrain efficiency. This performance level often provides a physiological (reserved energy) and psychological (confidence) advantage for cyclists during climbs and sprints.

Ceramic WET’s extreme durability, amazing smoothness and ultimate quietness will exceed the expectations of most cyclists! This patented technology is sure to change the way mechanics prepare a bike for a race and it may even change the way racers compete during the race.

rootboy 

Snake oil?

ftwelder

I oil cables, derailleur and brake pivots and chain with Texico way oil. It's oil that has a very thick film with light viscosity, perfect for our application and inexpensive. Well, if you buy a gallon it's cheap by the oz. . I use a synthetic machinery grease on bearings and threads and seat pillar.


https://www.matweb.com/search/datashe...2077faf03ab06c

JPZ66

On the subject of lube, I will say that the dry lube seems to be just fine, and I like that it does not attract all the sandy grit in this dry dusty environment I'm in. Also, I completely wipe down the chain, rings and cogs and anything else I see, after every ride. Then a quick little re-lube on the chain, etc. and I'm done. I don't like a greasy nasty chain and gears. I don't want my hands turning black any time I have to touch those parts. I like clean. It makes for smooth trouble free shifting and less wear.

Joe

Giacomo 1 

3In1 Oil (let the beatings begin!)

Well, it works for me. Some people say it is to thin and doesn't last long enough, but I find it quiets everything down just fine and last's a decent amount of time. To my knowledge, it was the first lubricant especially made for bikes back in the late 1800's.

By-the-way, this subject has been numerous times on these forums. Do a search...

noglider 

I use automatic transmission fluid. Sometimes I use Chain-L on the chain.

Nearly anything will do. I recommend against WD-40 and the 3-in-1 that is based on vegetable oil.

-holiday76

Pro-link. When I'm not using Man-Oil. Knowwhatumsayin'?

Giacomo 1 

3in1 is not based on vegetable oil to my knowledge, although the story or myth is out there. It might have been at sometime in it's over 100 year production run, but not these days. WD-40 is a whole other animal, and you really should not use it at all on your chains, except maybe to clean it then lube it with something else...

rootboy 

3 in 1's good stuff. Most oil is good stuff.

mmmmm....oil.

noglider 

Oh, good to know about 3in1.

I'd use WD40 if there were nothing else. Then as soon as possible, I'd replace it (by displacing it) with something else.

Saguaro

I use Tri-Flow. Good stuff.

Grand Bois

WD-40 likes 3 in 1 oil so much that they bought the company.

Three in 1 is mineral oil based, but it does contain some citronella oil for the scent.

eschlwc

- parks lube on bearings and their surfaces (and rd pulleys and all screws).
- 30-weight oil soak to refurbish old freewheels (after a thorough cleaning in mineral spirits and a spray of the spinning freewheel with tri-flow).
- white lightning clean ride wax on chain.
-tri-flow between overhauls on calipers, fd, and levers.

wahoonc

Rotella T 10W-30... I buy it in 55 gallon drums for the trucks and tractors. It gets used in just about every infernal combustion motor we own.

Aaron

RobbieTunes

White Lightning lightly, drop by drop on each link, on chains. So it takes 5 minutes?

Graphite lube in the cable housing ends, cable stops, and BB cable guides.

3-in-1 on the QR skewers, FD/RD pivot points, caliper arm and QR pivots, and the RD pulleys, generally after I "rinse" them with WD-40.

I also dab 3-in-1 on the pivots I can see and get to on STI's, and Ergos, but generally leave their internals alone. If I've flushed an 8-sp STI with WD-40, I try to get some white lithium back in there. Otherwise, I generally leave the insde of Ergos and STI's to their own lube. If I want them lubed, I go to an REI near here that knows their stuff, and trust them to use what's appropriate, if anything is.

Mobil 1 Marine on the seat post, quill stem, BB and hubs.

WD-40 on threads. If it's a threaded bolt, it gets WD-40, and that includes QR ends. As much to clean as anything.

I really don't care if any of them are the absolutely correct lube. My bikes are quiet, work well, and ride well.

ThermionicScott 

Chainsaw oil. And I don't even own a chainsaw.