Back from the painters...
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,390
Likes: 207
From: Williamsburg, VA Sebastian, FL
Bikes: 1987 Centurion Ironman Master, 1992 Koga Miyata Exerciser, 1992 Schwinn Crosscut
Back from the painters...
...after being sandblasted, primed, colored and clear-coated. It's a '71 Schwinn Super Sport that I am "re-purposing" with lighter and (sometimes) newer parts.
Here's my decal dilemma:
I did not use water transfer decals under the clear-coat because of a recommendation. Now, I have to decide whether to use vinyl or the water transfer type on top of the clear-coat. I'd rather use water transfer but worry they will scratch easily without being protected by a layer or three of clear-coat.
I see the water transfer type on ebay, but do not see vinyl.
Who would be the source for vintage vinyl decals?
Thanks for any help you can give me with this renovation stage!
Here's my decal dilemma:
I did not use water transfer decals under the clear-coat because of a recommendation. Now, I have to decide whether to use vinyl or the water transfer type on top of the clear-coat. I'd rather use water transfer but worry they will scratch easily without being protected by a layer or three of clear-coat.
I see the water transfer type on ebay, but do not see vinyl.
Who would be the source for vintage vinyl decals?
Thanks for any help you can give me with this renovation stage!
Last edited by 67tony; 10-04-12 at 08:02 AM.
#4
Banned.
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,199
Likes: 1,462
Many decal makers are now insisting on the 1ml layer of vinyl to hold the decal and make it easier to apply. I'm not a big fan, but I just used some on a powder-coated bike, and I'm much less nervous about decal damage, and part of that is due to the 1ml vinyl layer. I see no need to clear on those. You can see the edges, though. Now, if you wet-sand and apply the decals, even with the vinyl, when you clear-coat, the edges pretty much disappear.
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,390
Likes: 207
From: Williamsburg, VA Sebastian, FL
Bikes: 1987 Centurion Ironman Master, 1992 Koga Miyata Exerciser, 1992 Schwinn Crosscut
The prepping, painting, and clear-coating was done by a shop. I am not equipped (or inclined!) to apply a high-quality clear-coat onto this frame.
So, is there a dramatic decrease in durability by using water transfer decals? They are actual paint, right, and thus should be somewhat hard. Assuming water transfer looks better, is a slight drop-off in scratch resistance worth giving them a try?
Also, I think I've read about masking off the rest of the bike and just rattle-can spraying clear-coat over just the vinyl decals. Has anyone done this and, if so, how did it turn out?
So, is there a dramatic decrease in durability by using water transfer decals? They are actual paint, right, and thus should be somewhat hard. Assuming water transfer looks better, is a slight drop-off in scratch resistance worth giving them a try?
Also, I think I've read about masking off the rest of the bike and just rattle-can spraying clear-coat over just the vinyl decals. Has anyone done this and, if so, how did it turn out?
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,681
Likes: 1
From: St. Louis, MO
Any reason it can't go back to the painters for additional clear after you install the decals???
Alternatively, Velocals offers vinyl decals with an additional clear layer for protection. I used this type on my Pinarello Treviso, over existing decent paint...FWIW.
Alternatively, Velocals offers vinyl decals with an additional clear layer for protection. I used this type on my Pinarello Treviso, over existing decent paint...FWIW.
The prepping, painting, and clear-coating was done by a shop. I am not equipped (or inclined!) to apply a high-quality clear-coat onto this frame.
So, is there a dramatic decrease in durability by using water transfer decals? They are actual paint, right, and thus should be somewhat hard. Assuming water transfer looks better, is a slight drop-off in scratch resistance worth giving them a try?
Also, I think I've read about masking off the rest of the bike and just rattle-can spraying clear-coat over just the vinyl decals. Has anyone done this and, if so, how did it turn out?
So, is there a dramatic decrease in durability by using water transfer decals? They are actual paint, right, and thus should be somewhat hard. Assuming water transfer looks better, is a slight drop-off in scratch resistance worth giving them a try?
Also, I think I've read about masking off the rest of the bike and just rattle-can spraying clear-coat over just the vinyl decals. Has anyone done this and, if so, how did it turn out?
#8
The prepping, painting, and clear-coating was done by a shop. I am not equipped (or inclined!) to apply a high-quality clear-coat onto this frame.
So, is there a dramatic decrease in durability by using water transfer decals? They are actual paint, right, and thus should be somewhat hard. Assuming water transfer looks better, is a slight drop-off in scratch resistance worth giving them a try?
Also, I think I've read about masking off the rest of the bike and just rattle-can spraying clear-coat over just the vinyl decals. Has anyone done this and, if so, how did it turn out?
So, is there a dramatic decrease in durability by using water transfer decals? They are actual paint, right, and thus should be somewhat hard. Assuming water transfer looks better, is a slight drop-off in scratch resistance worth giving them a try?
Also, I think I've read about masking off the rest of the bike and just rattle-can spraying clear-coat over just the vinyl decals. Has anyone done this and, if so, how did it turn out?
#9
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 112
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From: The Des Moines, Iowa
Bikes: 72 Motobecane GR, 88 Schwinn Circuit, 72 Schwinn SS, Cannondale Synapse 5, Raleigh Tamland 1
The SS decal below is the velocals version of what you would be picking up, without clear coat. I don't think clear coat is necessary and I'm quite happy with how they have held up to a bit of abuse.
If I had to do this again, I would have trimmed some of the excess a little closer to the letters - in certain light you can see the vinyl edging around the words. I have used Motobecane decals from Cyclomondo that came nicely pre-trimmed but I don't know if he does Schwinn decals.
Also -DO NOT rattle can over your fresh professional paint for the love of god. If you really want a clear, have it professionally sprayed over your decals after they have dried for a few weeks (if vinyl). But again, clear coat seems like overkill.
If I had to do this again, I would have trimmed some of the excess a little closer to the letters - in certain light you can see the vinyl edging around the words. I have used Motobecane decals from Cyclomondo that came nicely pre-trimmed but I don't know if he does Schwinn decals.
Also -DO NOT rattle can over your fresh professional paint for the love of god. If you really want a clear, have it professionally sprayed over your decals after they have dried for a few weeks (if vinyl). But again, clear coat seems like overkill.
#14
Keeper of the SLDB

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 6
From: Springfield, MO
Bikes: '75 Schwinn Paramount P-10, '86 Ritchey Commando, '87 Schwinn Cimarron, '91 Trek 990, '87 Schwinn High Sierra, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, '4? Schwinn New World, '76 Swing Bike.
And Velocals is having a sale.
Bob
Bob
#15
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,390
Likes: 207
From: Williamsburg, VA Sebastian, FL
Bikes: 1987 Centurion Ironman Master, 1992 Koga Miyata Exerciser, 1992 Schwinn Crosscut
Yup, velocals it is. ..the $5 coupon sealed the deal.
Thanks for the help, I'll post pics when things get put back together.
Thanks for the help, I'll post pics when things get put back together.








