Hybrid Gearing Project
#1
Hybrid Gearing Project
This project has been on and off my work stand for about two years now and it's finally road worthy. It's really not meant to be practical but is more of an excercise in "can it be done?" First I have to thank Rudi "rhm" and the Sturmey Ninja, Dallas "photogravity" for being great resources for all things IGH. Dallas even contributed the SRAM 24T cog. Also, the benevolent spirit of Sheldon Brown, from whose writings the idea originally sprang. He mentions somewhere on his site that Shimano cassette cogs can be modified to fit on Sturmey-Archer hubs.
I decided to try to make a 2-range/3-speed drivetrain for 6 total speeds. I wanted to leave off derailleurs because this is going to be a winter errand bike and it will see slush and icy conditions. One cog is a SRAM, made for IGH use, and one is a Shimano which has had most of the splines ground off to fit the Sturmey-Archer 3-spline pattern.
The gearing is 38-14 on "high" range and 28-24 on "low" range. The low/low is ridiculously low (about 23") because I live on a steep hill and I want to climb it easily with a load in less-than-ideal conditions. High range is 98", 73" and 55". The number of teeth wrapped is the same on both ranges (52) but because the cogs have different tooth profiles, the chain tension is not consistent. That, plus the need to hand-shift is why I added the chain tensioner to the mix. It is not very elegant but it will have to do. I could buy a tensioner that mounts to the derailleur hanger but I'm too cheap and this one was in the parts bin. I considered using Sturmey wing nuts on the rear axle to move the axle each gear change to regulate the tension, but again, I'm too cheap and it seems too fussy.
Enough talking, enjoy a few pics.


I decided to try to make a 2-range/3-speed drivetrain for 6 total speeds. I wanted to leave off derailleurs because this is going to be a winter errand bike and it will see slush and icy conditions. One cog is a SRAM, made for IGH use, and one is a Shimano which has had most of the splines ground off to fit the Sturmey-Archer 3-spline pattern.
The gearing is 38-14 on "high" range and 28-24 on "low" range. The low/low is ridiculously low (about 23") because I live on a steep hill and I want to climb it easily with a load in less-than-ideal conditions. High range is 98", 73" and 55". The number of teeth wrapped is the same on both ranges (52) but because the cogs have different tooth profiles, the chain tension is not consistent. That, plus the need to hand-shift is why I added the chain tensioner to the mix. It is not very elegant but it will have to do. I could buy a tensioner that mounts to the derailleur hanger but I'm too cheap and this one was in the parts bin. I considered using Sturmey wing nuts on the rear axle to move the axle each gear change to regulate the tension, but again, I'm too cheap and it seems too fussy.
Enough talking, enjoy a few pics.


#3
Senior Member


Joined: May 2010
Posts: 5,626
Likes: 2,497
From: Bastrop Texas
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
I like it... Its clean and those climbing bailout gears are there when you need them... Be very interesting to see how this set up holds up over the next few years...
#5
Oh yeah, Peugeot UO-14, Velo Orange fenders, riser bar, MAFAC brakes, etc.
The lighting is a crazy hack also. Two 12V halogen lights in front and a DOT marker light for a tail light, powered by a Radio Shack alarm backup battery about the size and weight of half a brick.
Here it is last winter "in development"
The lighting is a crazy hack also. Two 12V halogen lights in front and a DOT marker light for a tail light, powered by a Radio Shack alarm backup battery about the size and weight of half a brick.
Here it is last winter "in development"
#6
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,058
Likes: 943
From: Washington County, Vermont, USA
Bikes: 1973-4 Gitane Tour de France, early 1970's Lejeune, 1970 Italvega Super Speciale, 2010 Surly Long Haul Trucker 26
Daft--but very nice. I have a similar setup with a rear derailleur that I like very much.
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"Progress might have been all right once, but it has gone on too long."
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"Progress might have been all right once, but it has gone on too long."
--Ogden Nash
#7
Hopelessly addicted...
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,955
Likes: 13
From: Central Maryland
Bikes: 1949 Hercules Kestrel, 1950 Norman Rapide, 1970 Schwinn Collegiate, 1972 Peugeot UE-8, 1976 Raleigh Sports, 1977 Raleigh Sports, 1977 Jack Taylor Tandem, 1984 Davidson Tandem, 2010 Bilenky "BQ" 650B Constructeur Tandem, 2011 Linus Mixte
BluesDaddy, I was wondering when you were ever going to put that cog to use!
I am glad to see the project come to fruition, that's for sure. I guess a couple questions need to be asked:1) Can you ride the bike up the hill to your house? 2) How do you like this setup, based on your early impressions?
I am glad to see the project come to fruition, that's for sure. I guess a couple questions need to be asked:1) Can you ride the bike up the hill to your house? 2) How do you like this setup, based on your early impressions?
#8
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
Likes: 597
From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Yep, that is definitely interesting, and I don't mean that as a euphemism for anything!
How hard is it to change gears? I know some hills where it would make sense to manually change gears before attempting a climb... but I also know rolling hills where it wouldn't.
Could you, by changing the tooth count of one sprocket or chain ring, get the chain length the same for both gears? I suspect you could do that; then you could have a front derailleur and a very primitive rear derailleur (like, another front one, but upside down) and shift on-the-go. Such luxury!
I guess, really, we need to hear what you think of this in a year or so. It's the kind of thing that is great fun for a while but it may get old. If you're like me, you'll continue to diddle with it as long as it's not perfect.
How hard is it to change gears? I know some hills where it would make sense to manually change gears before attempting a climb... but I also know rolling hills where it wouldn't.
Could you, by changing the tooth count of one sprocket or chain ring, get the chain length the same for both gears? I suspect you could do that; then you could have a front derailleur and a very primitive rear derailleur (like, another front one, but upside down) and shift on-the-go. Such luxury!
I guess, really, we need to hear what you think of this in a year or so. It's the kind of thing that is great fun for a while but it may get old. If you're like me, you'll continue to diddle with it as long as it's not perfect.
#9
It definitely goes up the hill easily. A 23" gear is practically walking speed. As far as ease of shifting, I've been practicing my technique and it goes something like this: Put down kickstand (a rear-mount Greenfield), tip bike so rear wheel comes off the ground, move chain from big cog to small cog/small ring to big ring or vice versa, replace tensioner as needed, ride away. I usually get grease on a couple fingertips, big deal. I think I can manage the rollers in "high range" and just throw it in "low" to return home.
This is the profile to go to the grocery store and post office and back home.
This is the profile to go to the grocery store and post office and back home.






