You got a great deal!

Did you also notice that the R900 weighed a pound more than the R500/600? The Suntour bits were lighter by that much. Amazing!

Let me also recommend cleaning, polishing, and waxing the frame and fork. The paint will "pop" again!

Start with Meguairs Scratch X,
http://www.meguiars.com/content/glob...ct/2760_lg.jpg
Then use the Deep Crystal Polish,
http://www.meguiars.com/content/glob...ct/2713_lg.jpg
And end with the Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax.
http://www.meguiars.com/content/glob...ct/2715_lg.jpg

Thanks pastor! I didn't see that the suntour equipped were a pound less, you're right that is amazing. Now I'm trying to convince myself I don't need the Black Lighting that's on CL in my size. She's a beauty too.

What metal are the components made of?

Generally, aluminum and aluminum alloy

Ok so what's the best way of removing the tarnish and light pitting?

Mothers, Blue Magic, Flintz, and pretty much any other metal polish will do the job nicely.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...voRecordRD.jpg

Blue Majic brought this NR RD back to life nicely!

Very nice! That's the same rd I have and it sure doesn't look that good. Thx!

You got an incredible deal on this bike. It's worth taking to get a full tune-up at a shop. Should only be ~$100

Agreed, the bike deserves a deep cleaning and an overhaul (bearings up).

Since the OP seems keen on learning how to wrench on it, $100 in tools and parts and the experience and competence of learning how to do it himself :thumb:
There is a liberating sensation that comes with discovering how simple these bicycles really are, plus the bonding that comes when one turns the wrenches on his/her steed.

Otherwise, yep, $100 or so is all it should require for a shop to do it. Guaranteed they won't be as methodical in cleaning and re-packing as you would be, though, unless you want to pay for the extra shop time.

You got an amazing deal. These early Cannondale frames are hard to find in my area especially when your talking about the higher end versions. I agree with everyone else clean it up and love it.

That's exactly what I'm going to do. I'm going to go the route canyon has mentioned. I'm more of a do it yourself type and my riding buddy has a lot the tools and know how as well. Besides it gives us something to do :)
had a stroke of good luck today, found a can of blue magic in the closet and boy does that stuff work! She's starting to shine.
I also went for my first ride on her and it was great. The bike fits me great. The only big issue (besides down tube shifters, yuck lol) is that the rear brake has very little stopping power. What should I look at first to maybe fix this?

Awesome!
I just sent you a PM with more detail than I felt appropriate here - the short answer is that a proper cleaning of those calipers, new pads, new cables, and new housings will liven those brakes up.

I can't wait to see it after the rebuild!

There is nothing wrong with down tube shifting! PLEASE dont change that about this bike unless you plan to race it, you will take me later. Ps im only 26 so im not some retro guy that grew up with down tube shifting.

There's lots wrong with dt shifting but don't you worry I'm not changing anything. I'm very much a classic look type guy and the thought of removing shiny campy components for plastic makes me cringe.

Congrats on being the 2nd owner on that nice c'dale. The top plastic brake cable clips haven't been available for a little while now, although rumours of repops have been heard in this forum. So if/when you update the cable casings (or decide to change color and repaint or powder) be careful with those plastic bits.

Thanks for the heads up! I kinda figured little things like this on something this old would be tough to replace, I guess I was right.
Anyone know how to fix the part where the bottle cage screws screw in to? They've come loose from the frame and the bottle cage is wobbly.

While they are beautiful, older campy sidepull brakes have much less stopping power than newer brake designs. Seems the rational at the time was that having strong brakes would cause crashes while pack racing. You can likely improve them a bit (dont forget to clean/deglaze the rim braking surface) but be prepared to lower your expectations if you grew-up using dual pivot brakes.

I do still like DT shifters but I have never had much luck with older campy DT friction shifters. Very common upgrade back when nuevo/super record grouppo was widespread was to subsitute simplex or suntour retro-friction DT shifters, provides a much lighter shifter feel without slipping.

Well about the brakes, the front brake actually has what I would call acceptable stopping power. So I know the rear brake can be better.
That's good info about the dt shifters. I don't plan on doing naything more than some leisurely riding on this bike so pinpoint shifting isn't necessary Besides I don't want to mess with the originality of the bike as a whole.

Fresh cables, housings and pads will go a long way to bringing those brakes into proper form. I'd also suggest thoroughly cleaning the calipers and re-lubing the pivots.

Ok let's say I know someone who doesn't like DT shifting. How would one go about making this bike an indexed shifter?

Treat the plastic cable guides like crystal. They are no longer available. If you break one, save the bits to expoxy back together.

This thread has good information on that: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...STI-s-or-Ergos

You'll have to replace derailleurs, shifters, possibly freewheel. Probably limited to 7 speeds, maybe 8 speed if you re-dish the wheel but there may not be enough clearance between the small cog and the seatstay. So you're looking at quite old quality stuff from Shimano or Campagnolo, or newer low-end stuff from Shimano. I don't know Shimano prices, but you could probably do it quite reasonably. To kit out the bike with Campagnolo 8 speed shifting will cost more than you paid for the bike. You can sell the existing derailleurs and shifters for something. To convert an '85 R900 to mid-range Shimano index stuff is, some would say, a downgrade. Converting to Campagnolo 8 speed Athena or Chorus would be cool.

If you can live without index, but simply want shifting up on the handlebars, then either get bar-end shifters or get Retroshift brake levers and mount your downtube shifters on them. Bar-ends are more classic looking, but if you don't ride in the drops much, you're moving your hands to shift. Retroshifts let you shift from the hoods. I use them on my '82 Peugeot, commute every day, works well.

http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...V/dc93576e.jpg

Dang! Athena and Chorus gruppos are $1000+!! The thought did cross my mind of just converting the rear shifting to indexed, and just leave the FD alone. (I like to think I stay in the big ring all the time anyway :))

What's your thoughts on that? So I'm putting you guys to the test, what's the absolute cheapest way you could make this work? 6sp cassette (i believe that's how it is referred to)

Cheapest: Shimano downtube index shifters, Shimano derailleurs, sell the existing Campagnolo stuff, you'll probably come out ahead by $40 or so, and your $225 R900 will be a $185 R400 . . .