About my Fuji Monterey
11-20-12 | 12:16 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 26
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About my Fuji Monterey
Hello guys, I am student in college and bike is something pretty new to me.
Anyhow, I just got a 1980 Fuji Monterey and I found that the freewheel is really rusty. I don't know whether I should try to replace it if it's possible. It is a 5 speed but I'm not clear about the size. If I shouldn't, or don't have to change it, is there any way to clean it out?
I also appreciate any other advice on the bike.
Anyhow, I just got a 1980 Fuji Monterey and I found that the freewheel is really rusty. I don't know whether I should try to replace it if it's possible. It is a 5 speed but I'm not clear about the size. If I shouldn't, or don't have to change it, is there any way to clean it out?
I also appreciate any other advice on the bike.
11-20-12 | 06:00 AM
#2
Zip tie Karen
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 7,005
Likes: 1,546
From: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
Richard,
The simplest answer is that you don't have to replace it. Remove the wheel from your bike.
Laying it flat on its side, you can take a wire brush and a mild phosphoric acid solution (Zapp tile cleaner, for example) and lightly work over the surface of each cog. That will dissolve and remove the surface rust. Rinse with WD-40 and a clean rag, then use an old shoelace to get between the cogs. Try to not get cleaner or WD40 in the circular seam where the cogs appear to spin on the center base, which doesn't spin.
Next, for that circular seam, tilt the wheel at a 45 degree angle and drizzle (very slowly, drop-by-drop) about two tablespoons of a heavy motor oil or even bar-chain oil for a chainsaw into the groove formed by the seam and the lip or flange that is just outside of it radially. Spin the freewheel gently and allow the oil to penetrate that little seam. You will hear the ratcheting sound become muffled as the oil fills the spaces in the mechanism inside.
Continue spinning the freewheel for a few minutes, then stand the wheel upright with a rag beneath the freewheel to catch the now dirly/fouled oil that will spill out, taking care to prevent oil from touching your rim surfaces (where the brakes are applied). Wipe the freewheel thorougly on its outer surfaces. This thin film of oil will help to keep rust away. Your chain will take care of the rest.
This is a simple and inexpensive way to keep a freewheel going and have it appear cleaner. True servicing of the freewheel is more complicated and involves disassembly and re-greasing of the internals. You likely don't want to undertake that yet.
Replacement of the freewheel is inexpensive, too. You'll want a bike shop to assist you with that... Good luck. PG
The simplest answer is that you don't have to replace it. Remove the wheel from your bike.
Laying it flat on its side, you can take a wire brush and a mild phosphoric acid solution (Zapp tile cleaner, for example) and lightly work over the surface of each cog. That will dissolve and remove the surface rust. Rinse with WD-40 and a clean rag, then use an old shoelace to get between the cogs. Try to not get cleaner or WD40 in the circular seam where the cogs appear to spin on the center base, which doesn't spin.
Next, for that circular seam, tilt the wheel at a 45 degree angle and drizzle (very slowly, drop-by-drop) about two tablespoons of a heavy motor oil or even bar-chain oil for a chainsaw into the groove formed by the seam and the lip or flange that is just outside of it radially. Spin the freewheel gently and allow the oil to penetrate that little seam. You will hear the ratcheting sound become muffled as the oil fills the spaces in the mechanism inside.
Continue spinning the freewheel for a few minutes, then stand the wheel upright with a rag beneath the freewheel to catch the now dirly/fouled oil that will spill out, taking care to prevent oil from touching your rim surfaces (where the brakes are applied). Wipe the freewheel thorougly on its outer surfaces. This thin film of oil will help to keep rust away. Your chain will take care of the rest.
This is a simple and inexpensive way to keep a freewheel going and have it appear cleaner. True servicing of the freewheel is more complicated and involves disassembly and re-greasing of the internals. You likely don't want to undertake that yet.
Replacement of the freewheel is inexpensive, too. You'll want a bike shop to assist you with that... Good luck. PG
11-20-12 | 07:32 AM
#3
Thrifty Bill
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,645
Likes: 1,109
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
If/when you replace it, plan on replacing the chain as well. Both are available on line at affordable prices.
Find a co-op for tools and advice.
Once the freewheel is off, do yourself and favor and have the rear hub serviced (bearings and grease). I have yet to have found a vintage bike that did not need this service, and neglecting this can result in damage to the hubs themselves (much more $$).
Find a co-op for tools and advice.
Once the freewheel is off, do yourself and favor and have the rear hub serviced (bearings and grease). I have yet to have found a vintage bike that did not need this service, and neglecting this can result in damage to the hubs themselves (much more $$).
Last edited by wrk101; 11-20-12 at 07:35 AM.
