adscft

Fuji Connoisseur Road Bike
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...52_-1___202339

it's Reynolds 725 chromoly tubing. i am thinking to get one when it has discount, then rebuild it with sram rival parts. but i am not sure, the sram parts would fit the frame. thanks

i just want a steel frame sub 20lb rival bike.

any comments are welcome. thanks a bunch.

Pars 

I would guess you could... but why? Why not just get a vintage frame and build it up with the Rival? You would have to spread the rear to 130mm most likely, but something like a Reynolds 531 Trek frame or similar would make a nice bike. I would get something with British threading (bottom bracket) to make it easier. Something with braze-ons for shifters (downtube) would make life easier.

Puget Pounder

Yes, you can, but as Pars said, "why"?"

You can get higher quality tubing from a vintage bike for a much better price and rebuild it with the parts you want.

Michael Angelo 

I think he's looking for "NEW" .

Kobe 

There is an entire thread on taking older frames and adding new parts. This may help you accomplish what you are trying to do and still have a classic bike.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...STI-s-or-Ergos

cb400bill

So the Fuji Connoisseur is now on sale for $499 at Nashbar. These $1299 three years ago when they came out.

RobbieTunes

Wow. That alone gets my interest. I've been here too long.

However......

-It's a good price for a new complete road bike, in the style many of us prefer.
-I don't think you can get it under 20lbs cheaply, or easily, for that matter.
-You'd need all but the frameset changed out to get it near 20lbs, so I figure another $500.
-The sell-offs would help defray that cost, so figure you're going to be $800-$900 into it.

I see it as an even proposition. A new steel bike, the way you want it, for $800-$900. Not a bad idea.
The devil would be in the details, and the fun in the building, if you're like me, so I give it a nod.............

bradtx

adscft, I agree with Robbie, it'll be a fun build to pursue. Sub 20 lbs. depending on frame size maybe possible, but I think you'll have only the frame left over. I think 20-23 lbs. is more realistic, I'd enjoy being proved wrong, however.

I like the bike and there are few choices for a new steel roadie now-a-days...

Brad

wrk101

Why pay $499 for a new generic frame, when you can buy a nice vintage SLX frame for less, and build from there.

adscft

i worry about there might be too much work for a old frame. of course, if there is no difference between old and new frame, i will pick some old frame. for same price, i might get better frame. thanks

adscft

thanks

adscft

great post, i will read it carefully. thanks

adscft

sorry, forget to quote, and no idea how to delete them.

Chombi

The ever rising cost of weenie components that you will need to get your steel bike to sub 20#s sometimes makes it ridiculous to pour in that much time and money on a less than top of the line steel frameset. You have to be careful not to get carried away doing so.....
Anyway, a 21 pound bike (which a good majority of the best race bikes weighed in at during the 80's C&V period) will most likely feel just as good on the road as a 18/19 pound bike in most conditions. Only time you might slightly feel the weight difference is during long climbs and during acceleration. Otherwise you will still feel the benefits of a "lively" steel frame at 21 and 19 pounds....
JMOs

Chombi

RobbieTunes

Yep. Been there.

dddd

The sizing chart shows a sharp rise in the frame angles steepness with the larger sizes, the seat tube and head tube being 74 degrees on the 58cm and the 60 cm being even steeper.

This seems very unusual for a bike that nobody is likely to race on, and makes those larger frame sizes feel even longer in the top tube (what I usually look for).
That 58cm with 58cm TT and 74-degree angles would make for a very aggressive position and a surgical hole in the wind with, say, a 120 neck on it. I might have to use a zero-offset seatpost, but it would work and would help reduce the effort on those faster-paced rides.
But, like what Pars pointed out, I could just tune up the $400 Medici I bought from Joe Englert and nearly be done with it. It would be lighter and more appealing to ride, and would never depreciate.

David Newton

Courtesy of Rootboy.

Velognome 

No, because the fork just kills it! IMHO

sleepy

Wow! I was bored and looking at that frame. I was playing with the same idea.
Psychic.
I say go for it. Folks talk about how you can find a cheaper one, but i've yet to see that magical vintage steel frame pop up for cheap on fleabay. Lame they don't sell it as a frame only anymore, but i love the color and style of fork.

cyclotoine

If you really want to save weight and go full steel I highly recommend you find a bike with a 1-1/8" threadless set-up. You can save a lot on stem and bars and have to option of upgrading to a carbon fork.