Sure looks in good shape. Nice simple frame

I would also like to note that I am not really sure when threadless stems came into the bike world, but my assumption on it being vintage is from lack of info on Nukeproof's website, google images etc.

It seems to me that all of the modern MTB's being made, at least have front suspension as well.

Only one ding in the DT, but I figured that it was negligable because of the price


Very simple indeed - I am excited to run the cantilever brakes though.

I would guess it is from the late 90's due to the lack of stops for canti's and the cable routing style. i think it was designed for V-brakes.

I just read an article on lennard zinn's cross bikes and he used a surly type cable hanger, which goes on the seatpost binder bolt, hung from a faceplateever bolt for the cantilevers. I would recommend a crown mounted stop though.

Essentially this? (although the ones being purchased would be a lot less elegant )

I'm guess mid/late 90's. I don't see any of the earlier Nukeproof radioactive logos like they use in the mid 90's. I had a set of early Nukeproof MTB hubs just recently and was running new Sram X9 10 speed on them. Sold them and bought a set of new Mavic Crossride wheels. Also had a set of the early BMX hubs also on my old Kastan BMX cruiser back in the 90's. All that Nukeproof stuff was the cat's meow. I know some of the frames has a really strange proprietary headset/fork setup. Their still around and based out of the UK but deal with mainly just downhill mtb stuff now. There early carbon parts like bars and hubs were just aluminum with a carbon skin over it and very rough to the touch. Still very cool stuff and still very desireable to collectors.

I think it would make a cool lightweight dropbar mtb project.

I've seen some of their components, surfing around on the 'net. The definitely are the cat's meow.
I am considering drop bars, most definitely. The only thing that is holding me back is whether or not it will be easy to do any intense trail riding with drop bars. Any experience with this? I would only think that it would be different because of the location of shifting and braking, whereas with upright bars one may have more leverage and all of the controls are right there.


I suppose there is always the option of the flared dirt drops too.

Can't wait to see the finished product. The ball-burnished finish and construction reminds me of my 96 Diamondback Response SE frame, down to the curved seatstays.
96 was the first year I noticed 1 1/8" threadless headsets being used.

I think it depends on the fit too, if the frame is on the small side for you then I think drop bar will work great as they extend the reach. If it is on the large size you'll have to go with a super short stem and the handling might be weird or you might be just too stretched out. You might want to use on of those clamp on seat tube extenders.

That is a sweet frame , i would stick a suspension fork on it , build it up with some new shimano or sram and ride the living hell out of it.

I haven't adjusted the seatpost or anything yet, the picture was as bought. But thanks for the guidance. I just measured everything and it's in just the "right" fitment zone for me, so I think I would be safe either way. I love drop bars, so odds are I will go with some flared dirt drops and maybe some... integrated shifting

It definitely caught my eye for those reasons. The curved stays are purrrr-ty!

I can't wait either, I am thinking red accents will go great with the finish of the frame. I'm probably going to sandblast and paint the seatpost and stem black, to add to the look as well.

Drop bars do extend the reach, but I've found that dirt drops need to be set up a good three or four inches higher than road drops. Unless you're really flexible, you usually need a really tall stem, or a really tall frame. In my experience with dirt drops, it's height that's the issue, not reach.

The classic dirt drop set-up has the LD stem (to escape the censors, I won't say what the 'd' stands for, only that the 'l' is for limp.

That frame is really, really cool and 75 dollars for a frame from such an iconic brand is a steal. Might I tru to dissuade you from the drop bar plan? With a fork like that and such a short ht it will be very hard to get enough stack. I'd suggest a 1x10 build with some wicked nukeproof hubs, paul comp vees and a cool crank. Considering your previous build I think you'll make a very cool bike out of this frame as well, you're blessed with a fine taste in bikes

what a ridiculous braze on... why do this when the housing stops on the headsets work so well? this thing is just asking to get broken off, not to mention it looks really bad

Btw, MAFAC made a super elegant hanger that works by getting clamped between the binder bolt and the drame, but yeah, run v-brakes anyway

I will take all of this into serious consideration, thanks! I didn't consider the stack height issue, as this is my first delve into both the threadless and mountian biking realm. I think a 1x10 set up would also be really cool- simplifying the drive-train and eliminating things that could be broken. Plus there is wicked clearance in the back.


I've been watching some older Nukeproof components on eBay, they are going for some fair prices, I suppose we will see.
Guess this means I have to start saying things such as:

"Let's go shred some wicked sick gnar, brah"

That's the plan

Or...drill the stem

Brake shudder.

I was actually just reading up on the topic. It's interesting how changing the location of the cable stop seems to fix the problem.

It is a pretty straight forward mechanism that causes it and mounting the stop on the fork is really the easiest way to reduce it. Pretty much all mountain bikes by the mid 1990s were using these. They were integrated into the stanchion bridge of the cantilever suspension forks and the bolt on stops are everywhere in the mid-1990s. They still make them and you can still buy them. They are dirt cheep and brilliant. I brought a whole schwack of the them into the shop a couple years ago as cross bikes were/are all the rage for commuting and do it all. And of course they all have cantilevers and suffer from bad brake shudder. I would have customers coming back all the time complaining. I would show them the $9 part and mention they would need some extra cabling and a minimal labour charge and their woes would be over. Of course some forks don't have a hole in the crown are shaped funny. IN that case customers are SOL.

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