With the help of JPZ66 I went and picked it up today, he also showed me how to do some maintenance like repacking hubs and such. Showed me how to clean up and polish metal like the seat post as well, it turned out really well. its a little bit up but in good shape, with some more work i think it will be a pretty good daily rider.

need to retape bars, replace brake cable housings and get a new saddle and pickup these spd pedals end of this week but works as is.
this is my first roadbike in along time, i was fg before.

Nice Centurion. I love the color!

That's beautiful. Congrats. After recently working on one I have a new-found admiration for Japanese bicycles of this era. That's a particularly nice blue!

Centurion strikes again.

I miss mine.

you done good son

ok i had a few questions again and instead of starting a whole new thread i figured id continue from this one considering its about the centurion, well the cockpit to be specific. basically how do you guys adjust your braks on your drop bars? i know comfort comes into play and ease of use, ive been using this as a basis https://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpe...BarsLevers.htm

but if you guys have any tips id appreciate it, i also dont have hoods on my brakes so...
here is how im thinking of setting it up now, basically as he has his done on that site, it is almost how i had it setup, riding the tops of the brakes would be more comfy if i had hoods but i dont.

I would recommend that you first adjust the handlbars so that the ends point at the rear wheel axle. Then, most suggest that you adjust the height of the brake levers so that the bottom of the levers is parallel horizontally with the end of the handlebars. Then adjust from there for comfort.

On bikes that I've not had brake hoods for, I've had good luck with wrapping the tops of the brakes with bar tape when wrapping the bars.

Kinda like this:

Arthur, if you get a chance to swing by my place again, I have several different sets of hoods that should work on those dia-compe brakes......

Joe

sweet, ill see what i can do, hey joe im redoing the cables and housing right now went with black housing instead of white i think it will look better, ill set up some pictures for you to see later after i wrap the bars.

On the brake lever positioning:

If you ride the hoods (when you get some), I'd go up about 1/2 an inch.
You don't want to go too high, but you want a comfortable place to put your hands when on the hoods/tops.

If you ride the drops, I'd go down about 1/2 an inch. I like the "horizontal" advice given earlier, but as a drop bar rider, I mount the levers a bit lower, so as to brake with my two middle fingers. Also, as a drop bar rider, I like the drops to be almost parallel to the ground, depending on how long the drops are. Yours would be about right for me, but the length of the flat part of the drop is pretty long, so moving your hands around will result in pretty much the same pressure points on your hands. Altering that a bit can help to give you more options on hand placement.

Let your riding style dictate, and feel free to move the levers around to your comfort level.

I just carry some tools and ride the bike without tape for a day until I find where the bar and hoods feel best.

Fine looking steed, I still have some things to change around on mine as I get time, I like the way it rides & handles.

Things I have left to install,
600 headset
600 hidden bolt 120mm stem
600 bronze aero brake levers
600 bronze Biopace chainrings
Set of Bronze Araya wheels with 600 hubs
Remove the cross levers.
I have all but given up finding a 600 seat post that will fit & I can afford

Glenn