I got my hands on a new frame this holiday season. I'll been collecting bits for it over the past few months. I'll keep the forum posted of my progress.

To begin, heres the frame. I spent some time yesterday treating a bit of rust, and touching up the paint.

If anyone can help ID the bike, I'm happy to hear your comments. So far it is eluding me. I've ruled out Bob Jackson & Mercian, and haven't found a matching model in Raleigh, Holdsworth, or Claud Butler.

Reynolds 531 frame and fork (based on decals, no engraving found).
Frame: 2113g
Fork: 728g
Dropouts: Campagnolo w/ eyes.
Rear Spacing: 122mm
Bottom Bracket: British
Tubing outside diameter: 28.6
Seat Post: 26.8 or 27.0 (to be confirmed).
Lugs: Prugnat
Crown: Vagner
Braze On's: Downtube cable stops. RD Cable stop.
Serial: 2001679

As Found:


After some love:

I think its a Viking. Maybe a Mile-Eater.

neat one! like the pointy lug decos. must be fun.

Very nice! What are your build plans?

Cheers,
Chris

Have you ever seen a frame screaming out "white bluemels!" that loud? Great start for a winter project.

Bravo. Very well could be.

Here's an exert from the 1980 catalogue.

Lightweight tourer.. Barcons.. I'll get some photos of the goodies I've acquired when I get home in the new year.

Maybe.. Haven't picked up fenders yet. Although, I am leaning towards solid polished alum, as per the catalog above.

Whatever it is, the construction is fantastic for a semi-production machine. Ill bet it's a stellar performer!

It looks like you found a perfect paint match.

Did you treat inside the tubes? It looks like it's been wet. It's like that here in VT.

Filed off most of the external rust, then treated with a rust inhibitor. Primed, and painted with nail polish (used two colors and mixed them for the best possible match). This is the first time I've done this. Should I be clear coating somehow, or will this be okay?

I haven't treated the inside yet. The seat binder was the only real bad spot. Inside the tubes looks pretty healthy. I'll get some framesaver and spray it in, but I don't think it's bad enough to warrant a OA bath. Any advice in this regard is much appreciated.

- j

Well done on the nail polish. I think you should give it a rattle can clear coat just to be safe.

Update!

Layed out some parts last night and mocked up the build. It's a bit of a mash of components, but all are well performing bits, and they look like a group when next to each other. I'm getting fairly close, but still need to source:

• Headset (thinking Tange Levin NJS, but your opinion is appreciated).

• Proper size seat post and/or shims. The local co-op had a Super Record post in 26.8, so hopefully they still have it (and fingers crossed they will trade it for the 26.6 I have).

• Fenders. What are your thoughts? Hammered or Regular? VO?

• Cable guide. I didn't check size when I picked up a campy one lately, turns out its for metric sized tubing. Arg.

• Chain

I also may need to find a smaller stem, as I think the reach may be a little on the long side for me, but I think I'll try it as is for now (unless someone has a cinelli they'd like to trade).

I was going to say witcomb? Looks like a real nice sports tourer.

But I am not sure how many bike would have used the same made in england sticker...

THANK YOU!!

I think you're right. Serial number seems close to other witcombs, and check out this 1979 Witcomb Roubaix.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/7539513...n/photostream/

You could always contact them. However, I will guess they will want to charge you to look up the serial number as they are still in the same shop (AFAIK) building custom to order bicycles and it is likely in a dusty box in the attic.

All references I found point towards the shop closing in 2009. So I think I'm out of luck in that regard. It seems like all the serials do in fact end in the production year, and the rest of the number seems to fit the logical progression of serials. This makes me very confident that I've got a 1979 Witcomb on my hands. It makes sense given the downtube cable stop braze-ons, as this would have been a custom build.

Super cool project! Great pics, too.

That build is looking great, right up my alley!

Ah what a shame! I was there in October 2007 and was enthused to see it was alive and well. They even gave me an oversized bike box which I could fit my touring bike in without removing the rear rack.

Looks good so far! Not diggin' the black chainring though.

I have mixed feelings about it, but it's all I've got right now, so it's staying. Given the black on the derailleurs and pedal cages, I'd say its a decent fit for the build.

I agree it matches most of the components, but it doesn't match "the bike." Know what I mean?

Update.

Here's the build thus far.

I made up some Witcomb decals as it seems the logical solution based on the research that I've done. I didn't clear over them just in case it is proven otherwise in the future. They aren't perfect, but I could make them for the cost of my time, rather than spending $50 on a set.

I'm just waiting on the headset, which is a Tange on order. I had a fun time choosing it, based on the fact that the steerer tube forced me to have a low stack height headset.

I'd love some ideas for C&V approved battery powered LED lights. Anyone?

That is shaping up real nice. Did you go with Campy-copy Tange Levin, or another version?

Fenders work very well with the rest, I think. Did you go with VOs? I can't tell.

You might be lucky I wasn't residing at my 12th & Commercial address when that one came up on CL.

It's a great find - and I'm happy to see the probable ID in this thread!

I don't know about "C&V approved lights", I just use a smallish Fenix Tactical LED flashlight with a bike mount provided by the manufacturer. It's OK. I like it because the typical aluminum-body flashlight is more practical to throw in my pocket than most bike lights, and the same device serves multiple applications (though the bracket is a little bulky, it comes off the bike entirely in 60 seconds and can be mounted on the stem for centredness). If my riding were not exclusively in a large city, and only occasionally at night, I would look for a 'dedicated' light, but this one does the trick as is.