Just bought a Concorde
04-26-13 | 02:46 PM
#26
Cyclotouriste
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 11,792
Likes: 7,015
From: South Holland, NL
Bikes: Yes, please.
Edit: a Colombo, BTW
04-30-13 | 10:23 PM
#27
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
The OP has a lovely old Concorde and probably one of the better models, as nearly as I can tell. I have owned several old Concordes, myself, and never been terribly impressed with any of them even though they were very nice bicycles. None, I should add, could hold a candle to the OP's.
However, I finally got my hands on a Concorde frame and fork set that I do like. This one was made in Italy. It features Aelle tube set, Gipiemme forged drops and cantilever brake braze ons...
However, I finally got my hands on a Concorde frame and fork set that I do like. This one was made in Italy. It features Aelle tube set, Gipiemme forged drops and cantilever brake braze ons...
05-03-13 | 05:43 AM
#31
South Carolina Ed
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,908
Likes: 320
From: Greer, SC
Bikes: Holdsworth custom, Macario Pro, Ciocc San Cristobal, Viner Nemo, Cyfac Le Mythique, Giant TCR, Tommasso Mondial, Cyfac Etoile
Fantastic build! I love the livery on that Concorde with all that silver and 30mm's.
05-03-13 | 11:41 AM
#36
Banned.
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,199
Likes: 1,463
Ok, cheers folks
Actually, Tinn is an area in the county of Telemark and not a village. The village, or town actually, in Tinn is called Rjukan, and is where the famous ww2 heavy water plant was situated. Rjukan didn't exist as a town 150 years ago though, as it's only about 110 years old, from when the area was industrialized.
Actually, Tinn is an area in the county of Telemark and not a village. The village, or town actually, in Tinn is called Rjukan, and is where the famous ww2 heavy water plant was situated. Rjukan didn't exist as a town 150 years ago though, as it's only about 110 years old, from when the area was industrialized.
05-03-13 | 12:14 PM
#37
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 388
Likes: 3
From: Telemark, Norway
1976 was the year actually.
We had to wait until the C was commercially ready. Took only 4 hours to cross the Atlantic by then you know...
The "year" was actually the second half of the 1800's according to Wiki.
We had to wait until the C was commercially ready. Took only 4 hours to cross the Atlantic by then you know...
The "year" was actually the second half of the 1800's according to Wiki.
Last edited by EBH; 05-03-13 at 12:35 PM.
05-03-13 | 03:52 PM
#38
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,390
Likes: 118
From: EagleRiver AK
Campy neuvo/super record cranks probably have won more pro races than any crank in history, they look good and are lightweight. THat said, beware that these cranks are fairly prone to catastrophic failure and were never meant to have a service like of 30+ years.
See: https://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-009/000.html
I have personally had a super record crank snap during a sprint, causing me to crash hard. I would be very cautious about using a SR crank for anything more than casual, easy riding and if you do continue to use it, you need to frequenty inspect for any sign of cracks forming.
The SR 144mm BCD size limits you to a minimum 42t inner chainring, going to a newer crank would get you pinned/ramped chainrings that shift much better and a better selection of smaller chainrings.
My Norwegian ancestors immigrated to South Dakota where they homesteaded around 1850, same farm is still owned and run by some of thier direct descendants that are distant cousins of mine.
See: https://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-009/000.html
I have personally had a super record crank snap during a sprint, causing me to crash hard. I would be very cautious about using a SR crank for anything more than casual, easy riding and if you do continue to use it, you need to frequenty inspect for any sign of cracks forming.
The SR 144mm BCD size limits you to a minimum 42t inner chainring, going to a newer crank would get you pinned/ramped chainrings that shift much better and a better selection of smaller chainrings.
My Norwegian ancestors immigrated to South Dakota where they homesteaded around 1850, same farm is still owned and run by some of thier direct descendants that are distant cousins of mine.
05-03-13 | 11:34 PM
#39
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 388
Likes: 3
From: Telemark, Norway
Thanks for the info GrayJay.
The bike will only be used for easy riding by me, but the fella I bought it from used to race it amongst the elite in Norway back in the 90's so the crank has probably had it's fair share of wear and tear.
I will deffo inspect the cranks from time to time.
I probably also will replace the crank cause I've actually been on the lookout for a 39t small chainring, and wasn't aware SR had 144 BCD.
The bike will only be used for easy riding by me, but the fella I bought it from used to race it amongst the elite in Norway back in the 90's so the crank has probably had it's fair share of wear and tear.
I will deffo inspect the cranks from time to time.
I probably also will replace the crank cause I've actually been on the lookout for a 39t small chainring, and wasn't aware SR had 144 BCD.
05-04-13 | 11:41 PM
#40
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 388
Likes: 3
From: Telemark, Norway
Had the first test y'day, and couple of things is apparent.
1. The inside of the crank arm touches the chain when chain is on the smallest cog. So I will need a new crank, as it seems to me, a novice, the SR crank is not suitable for an 8 speed configuration.
2. The rims of the wheelset is totally worn out. I've seen and felt that the braking area is pretty rugged, to say the least, but didn't realise the braking would be as bad as it is until I tried the bike.
I could adjust the position of the brake pads to see if I can optimize the braking, but how much better it will be is not easy to say. Not much probably.
So I will need a new set of 8 speed wheels. Anyone got a set laying around you don't need anymore?
1. The inside of the crank arm touches the chain when chain is on the smallest cog. So I will need a new crank, as it seems to me, a novice, the SR crank is not suitable for an 8 speed configuration.
2. The rims of the wheelset is totally worn out. I've seen and felt that the braking area is pretty rugged, to say the least, but didn't realise the braking would be as bad as it is until I tried the bike.
I could adjust the position of the brake pads to see if I can optimize the braking, but how much better it will be is not easy to say. Not much probably.
So I will need a new set of 8 speed wheels. Anyone got a set laying around you don't need anymore?
05-05-13 | 01:20 AM
#41
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 388
Likes: 3
From: Telemark, Norway
Update:
It's actually the threaded part of the pedal itself that touches the chain. It's a wee bit too long and a washer or another set of pedals will do.
Also moved the brake pads a bit and the braking improved. It's more smooth, but the braking power itself is still somewhat weak.
Others than these problems the bike itself is a good ride.
It's actually the threaded part of the pedal itself that touches the chain. It's a wee bit too long and a washer or another set of pedals will do.
Also moved the brake pads a bit and the braking improved. It's more smooth, but the braking power itself is still somewhat weak.
Others than these problems the bike itself is a good ride.
05-05-13 | 01:07 PM
#42
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 956
Likes: 40
From: Holland
Bikes: 2007 Nagasawa with C-Record, 1992 Duell with Croce D'aune/Chorus, three Gazelles, M5 recumbent
Update:
It's actually the threaded part of the pedal itself that touches the chain. It's a wee bit too long and a washer or another set of pedals will do.
Also moved the brake pads a bit and the braking improved. It's more smooth, but the braking power itself is still somewhat weak.
Others than these problems the bike itself is a good ride.
It's actually the threaded part of the pedal itself that touches the chain. It's a wee bit too long and a washer or another set of pedals will do.
Also moved the brake pads a bit and the braking improved. It's more smooth, but the braking power itself is still somewhat weak.
Others than these problems the bike itself is a good ride.
05-06-13 | 02:05 AM
#44
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 747
Likes: 7
From: Amsterdam
Bikes: Enough for now
Maybe it's the heavy wheels that work as a flywheel that makes stopping a little harder? I got heavy ones on my cx bike and stopping, even though with koolstops is just a tad bit more difficult.
05-06-13 | 11:51 PM
#47
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 388
Likes: 3
From: Telemark, Norway
It will deffo have a new saddle in the future. It's just a case of using what I've got atm. I actually thought the colors of it worked well with the rest of the bike but not so sure on the shape...
10-10-13 | 07:02 PM
#50
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 332
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis, MN
Bit of an old thread...
Nice rebuild!
My family moved from Nissedal (I'm not sure if this is a town or a county), Telemark, Norway in 1853. Most of the Norwegians moved starting then, until the late 1800's. Earlier (as in the case of my family) they moved to Wisconsin.
I hope to visit Telemark someday!
Nice rebuild!
My family moved from Nissedal (I'm not sure if this is a town or a county), Telemark, Norway in 1853. Most of the Norwegians moved starting then, until the late 1800's. Earlier (as in the case of my family) they moved to Wisconsin.
I hope to visit Telemark someday!