Hey there people,

I'm going to be changing my BB to a cotterless SL and then installing a set of SL 49D cranks and chain rings. I'm wondering if I am going to need a Stronglight Crank puller to install, or are they only for removal?

Also, the BB set I purchased doesn't have washers - are they crucial or can I go without?

Thanks!

Also, the bolts for attaching the cranks to my spindle appear to be 12.9mm, right? Does that mean I'll need a special tool? I'm so dumb... please help!

No need for puller to push crank arms on. 12.9 on bolts is irrelevant, use a socket that fits, I usually 15mm, and the flared bolts are in place of the washers, no need.

Just make sure the bolts thread cleanly into your bb before putting the arms on (like thread the bare bolts into the bb spondle) and you're good to go.

Pretty sure the "12.9" implies the grade of steel used to make the bolt.

Which washers?
You'll need a special puller to remove the Stronglight crank, if you ever plan to.

Got it guys, thank you! Last question for now - I might need some type of special socket wrench that's got thinner walls, is that right? Or do you guys find normal socket wrench sets fit?

Also, don't Stronglight bolts usually take 16mm bolts, which means I need even a different socket?

You will need a thin wall socket if you can find one. Some brands are thinner than others. I found a Blackhawk 16 mm socket that fits my Stronglight 93 cranks perfectly. Craftsman and Snap On didn't work.

Thanks! You mean this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Blackhawk-16Mm...k+16+mm+socket

apg- You won't need a crank puller to install your 49D but you must budget for and acquire a Stronglight crank extractor in the dedicated 23.15 mm threading if you ever wish to remove them. Ebay, of course, or Harris Cyclery as sources. Check your bolt size and then buy a thin walled socket at the hardware store and you are good to go.

Yeah. That one's probably overkill. I'd go to a few auto parts stores,and Sears, and try some out for fit. Or, you could spring for a Stronglight wrench if you can find one. Worst case you could grind down a Craftsman to fit.

Not quite irrelevant. 12.9 is a not a grade of steel but a grade of metric bolt, indicating its strength rating. Typically, the higher grades (like 12.9) are applied where their strength is really needed, and the installed preload is specified accordingly. Some manufacturers just use high grade bolts across the board in order to commonize their inventory and avoid the problem of under-strength bolts being mis-used.

Regarding thin-wall sockets, if you have difficulty locating a 16mm, I'm pretty sure 5/8" is close enough in size that it will work as well. If the store where you're shopping doesn't have a "thin-wall" socket as such, you may find that the better brands such as Snap-On are inherently thin wall and will fit nicely.

[on edit] Oh, I see Snap-On was a no-go for a poster above. I have a Proto Challenger (Canadian brand) 5/8" socket that fits my Stronglight bolts/cranks nicely.

Thanks all, great information. I found a thin wall 16mm on Amazon... My local hardware stores are not ideal. I'm in Manhattan..

...irrelevant to anything about the size of the wrench needed. I always figured the only difference in the grade of the bolt WAS the grade of the steel. What's the difference?

Edit: that's not a rhetorical question, I honestly don't know and you seem to- so what's the difference in grades of bolts? Material obviously, but tolerance? QC?

It seems crazy to buy a Stronglight puller just to get just one crank off. (They cost around $55 at Velo Orange),.

I'd recommend going to a bike co-op if there's one around you. They probably deal with old French bikes and have a puller you could use for much less $$.

So, for now, put the crank on and worry about the puller later.

grade indicates tensile strength...12.9 is equivalent to an SAE grade higher than 8, probably way higher than any bicycle needs.
You don't HAVE to use the 16mm bolts or even a 15mm unless you have some kind of fetish...as long as the threading matches and you have a washer or flange on the bolt, use what you have and what works with the socket you have.
I would NOT trust that any Co-Op has the Stronglight puller, the TA puller (23mm, NOT 23.15mm) is much more common and while it MIGHT work, it might also strip your vintage crank threads. Verify, verify, verify.

IthaDan, "material" is a bit generic when it comes to factors that determine the strength of a finished component. Two dimensionally identical components [e.g. bolts] of the same material composition may have different strength due to differing methods in which they were fabricated. The 12.9 grade does not narrowly specify material, it specifies performance in terms of strength and application parameters.

Excellent points, my friend!!
If you sub-in a different bolt [capscrew, strictly speaking, but that's another topic], just make sure it is rated for the installation torque you're planning to use. If it has numbers embossed on the top (e.g. 8.8, it's easy to look up the rated torque).

Stronglight has more clearance for 16mm bolts than Zeus, but there's no reason why you couldn't use 15mm or even 14mm bolts instead, as long as they fit the spindle.

BTW, the bolts in your picture don't look like they're original equipment anyway.

Good point.

I bought one just get one crank off. Stronglight 93. Went directly through Jim Stein and saved a few bucks.
It's nice to have the right tool for the job.

Ive got no problem using different bolts! So I could find a 15mm bolt, that has an 8mm thread (that's what the old Stronglights are right?) and use that instead? Sounds great.

Then I could use use a park tool or whatever to tighten them? Sounds much easier! Thanks.

You only need the proper socket wrench to tighten them. But make absolutely sure you use the proper washers behind the bolt heads. A touch of grease on the backside of the washer helps.

EDIT: and others will undoubtedly disagree with this but: clean the tapers in the crank arms and the spindle flats very well,
with alcohol or similar, and do not lubricate either of them when installing.

Interesting timing - I was about to post to see if anyone knew of a place to get a puller for my Stronglight 63 crank. The options seems pretty limited. I agree that $50 is a lot to spend on a tool that you might need for only a single bike and might only use once a year when regreasing the bearings. Maybe we need to start a tool lending or rental program. Anyone got a puller they wouldn't mind renting or loaning to me for a short while?

I've used my own to remove a couple cranks for fellow C&Vers on-site...I don't like to loan it out since I'd hate to lose it.
Where are you?

Yes, a standard 8mm x 1mm crank bolt will work fine. Install with any appropriate size socket wrench. To remove the arms non-destructively without the official puller, use Jacobs chuck wedges behind the arms:

I think it's funny that there were several posts here discouraging the purchase of tools. I could have sworn that was against the rules here