Hey all,

My rear wheel feels like it's dragging. I've had my 7? Motobecane Mirage for over a year and know the feel of the bike very well. My bike usually feels pretty agile and quick, but it's feeling sluggish, as though I'm riding in soft gravel.

Of course, it *might* be the BB, but wanted to check in here.

I had a problem with a loose derailleur the other day and my wheel was dragging heavily on my left chain stay. I tightened it up, but prior to having done that I'd tightened my axle, a pinhead, maybe too much, if that's possible.

Also, I changed my tyres from racing slicks to Panaracer Pasela's, and this problem started shortly after that. And it's started getting really hot in NYC and maybe the asphalt softer, or dragging? Those two things are about when this problem started.

I wanted to know if anyone has ideas here -

. Should I loosen my BB cone to begin with?
. Should I loosen cones on rear wheel?
. Any ideas that might help?

Please don't tell me to harden up either. I'm looking for constructive advice.

First of all, make sure your tire isn't rubbing because the wheel isn't straight in the frame. Make sure the brakes aren't rubbing on the rim and that when you squeeze then release them they return to a centered position. Either of these things would produce more pronounced dragged than some of the other possibilities.

Next, overshift the chain inward so that it falls off the small chainring then try turning the crank by hand. If it feels smooth and turns easily then the BB isn't the problem. If it is binding you'll know right away. Also spin each pedal to see of either is tight.

Another possibility is a chain that needs lubrication. Don't forget, every link pivots a little as it enters or leaves a tooth on the front or rear. Finally, just spin the rear wheel and see if it spins down real fast. It should go for a long time. The bearings should be loose enough that the valve stem's weight makes it want to rotate down to the bottom. While you're at it, check whether the RD pulleys are getting tight. Usually they can be removed, cleaned, oiled, and put back in, but on some RD's it's not so easy a task.

I'm not sure what you mean by overtightening the axle. Did you mean tightening the QR skewer or nuts which hold the wheel to the DO's? Or did you mean the actual bearing cone? It is possible to overtighten the bearing cone, but they are normally locked into place with a locking nut inside the DO. Unless they weren't adjusted properly they shouldn't move when you tighten the nuts which hold the wheel to the DOs. They are easy to adjust properly but you do need special thin wrenches called cone wrenches. Also be aware that bearing get a little tighter when the QR skewer or axlenuts are tightened, so if they are on the tight side before you install the wheel they could become too tight. But I wouldn't think that would be enough to notice unless they are too tight to begin with.

Finally, check your tire pressures. Low tires shouldn't cause so much drag that you can feel it until they become noticeably low and threaten to pinch the tube or bang the rim on the ground.

Brilliant!! Thanks so much. Ill look at it tomorrow. My feeling is you're onto something with the chain and the tire pressure. I've spun the rear wheel and it seems to be spot on. Definitely true and not rubbing on frame or brake pads.
Will report back. Thanks!

Last time the bearings were serviced on the hubs and bottom bracket was when? I have seen cone lock nuts loose or near loose on bikes I have picked up, and if don't address it, they can end up being tight (nutted axle vs QR). Having the hubs serviced, with fresh bearings and grease, is trivial in cost if you do it yourself. Make sure lock nuts are tight against the cones (using two cone wrenches, or a cone wrench and a socket on the lock nut). And while you are there, its a good time to do the front wheel and the bottom bracket.

Have you had them serviced since you owned the bike? In 500+ vintage bikes purchased, I have yet to have found a bike yet where the bearings and grease are good. Service work really gets ignored for decades by most owners. I keep hoping I will find one that has been maintained. Its bound to happen, eventually.

Found this in the bottom bracket of a higher end, 1988 Panasonic racing bike I picked up about a month ago:

Earwigs + Hornet carcasses = fast.

When you find THIS in your BB, you MAY have a problem!

Does the dragging occur only when your pedaling, does it occur when coasting or both this info could go a long way in trying to figure out the poblem.

Hey, cleaned everything, runs better, but still some drag. Not the BB or wheels-seems to be the freewheel-could that be possible?

If you lift up the back of the bike, spin the wheel, and detect no unusual drag, it's not the rear wheel or the rear brakes.

If you lift up the front of the bike, spin the wheel, and detect no unusual drag, it's not the front wheel or the front brakes.

If you remove the chain from the chainring, spin the crank, and detect no unusual drag, it's not the BB.

If you take the chain off the derailleur pulleys, spin the pulleys, and detect no unusual drag, it's not the derailleur.

If you do all of those things without detecting unusual drag, but the bike still feels slow, you have mono.

The freewheel? Did it drag when you spun the rear wheel backwards? Dribble some 10w40 into the crack between the lockring and body anyway - it needs it from time to time, as I'm sure you know. One would probably notice sticking pawls from the difference in sound alone, I would think. What kind of freewheel, Maillard? I don't recall those being especially quiet. I once cured sticking pawls on a Suntour Perfect by soaking it for a week in kerosene, then for a week in fresh motor oil. I have ridden that freewheel for several months, and it seems to be doing fine. YMMV.

Last time you flushed freewheel? Last time you cleaned and inspected chain?

Hey all. Thanks again - I don't know what Mono is but it sounds mean.

Freewheel only spins in correct direction with wheel. I'll add some lube/oil between the lockring and body tomorrow. I'm riding on a suntour freewheel.

What or how does one 'flush' the freewheel?

Ash

Mononucleosis, also known as kissing disease. A moderately contagious disease caused, I believe, by a virus. Its distinguishing characteristics are that causes extreme weakness and can take weeks or even months to go away.

Helpful, thanks. I'll be sure to go see a doctor and tell them I've been diagnosed by folks on bikeforums.

Singular, technically. Make sure you give them my name.