Dura ace brifter weak return
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member



Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 8,862
Likes: 2,924
From: Elwood Indiana
Bikes: they change so much I'm tired of updating this
Dura ace brifter weak return
The r/h shifter is not returning after shifting up to the larger cogs. Do I need a new return spring, or maybe just gummed up? Thanks
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Semper fi
Semper fi
#2
First thing's first. Tri-Flow the crap out of it. If that doesn't work then maybe it's time for a new spring.
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2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
#4
Senior Member


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 7,717
Likes: 4,123
From: Berkeley, CA
Bikes: 72 Cilo Pacer, 72 Gitane GT, 72 Peugeot PX10, 73 Speedwell Ti,l, 75 Peugeot PR-10L, 80 Colnago Super, 81 Zinn, 85 ALAN Cross, 85 De Rosa Pro, 86 Look 753, 86 Look KG86, 89 Parkpre Team, 90 Parkpre Team MTB, 90 Merlin
I have had very little experience with brifters. That said, I had success with a Shimano 600 lever that didn't want to return/downshift. First, I removed the lever from the body. Then I flushed the lever with WD-40 while working over a small plastic tray to collect the extra WD-40. When I had enough run-off WD-40 to submerge the top portion of the lever in the corner of the tray, I left the lever submerged in WD-40 for a few hours, or maybe overnight. Then I let it drip dry, and soaked it in Mobile 1 synthetic oil for a few more hours, dripped dry again and wiped clean, then reassembled.
Here's a nice photo driven how-to (may be slightly different for a Dura-Ace brifter):
https://imgur.com/a/0tPBK
I thought I was going to need to try a full service, but all I needed was to get rid of the old gummed-up grease (soaking in WD-40) and add fresh oil. Worked like a charm.
Here's a nice photo driven how-to (may be slightly different for a Dura-Ace brifter):
https://imgur.com/a/0tPBK
I thought I was going to need to try a full service, but all I needed was to get rid of the old gummed-up grease (soaking in WD-40) and add fresh oil. Worked like a charm.
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-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer (x2) • '72 Peugeot PX10 • ‘72 Gitane Gran Tourisme • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Motobecane Grand Jubile • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • ‘80 Colnago Super • ‘81 Univega Super Special • ‘82 Zinn • ‘84ish Mystery Custom • '85 A.L.A.N Cyclocross • '85 De Rosa Pro • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer (x2) • '72 Peugeot PX10 • ‘72 Gitane Gran Tourisme • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Motobecane Grand Jubile • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • ‘80 Colnago Super • ‘81 Univega Super Special • ‘82 Zinn • ‘84ish Mystery Custom • '85 A.L.A.N Cyclocross • '85 De Rosa Pro • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
#5
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Joined: Dec 2007
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My 1st guess is that all the above may be unnecessary, but it depends on the speeds.
Older brifters have a return spring on the top front of the body, under the cap, and it often comes out of it's slot, resulting in poor "returns." Simply taking it apart, and re-inserting the spring (under tension) will solve that issue, if that's the cause. The majority of the time, it is. Be careful taking it apart, and have a place where dropped stuff can land and not get lost.
Older brifters have a return spring on the top front of the body, under the cap, and it often comes out of it's slot, resulting in poor "returns." Simply taking it apart, and re-inserting the spring (under tension) will solve that issue, if that's the cause. The majority of the time, it is. Be careful taking it apart, and have a place where dropped stuff can land and not get lost.






