Shifter Question
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Auburn Al
Bikes: Le Tour ll
Shifter Question
I have a Schwinn Le Tour ll that I know was built in the mid 70's... I've had it since it was new.
I'm wondering if I can change the shifting levers from the neck to a brake/shifter combo, indexed system or get them on the bars some how.
Any ideas, suggestions etc are appreciated....
john
I'm wondering if I can change the shifting levers from the neck to a brake/shifter combo, indexed system or get them on the bars some how.
Any ideas, suggestions etc are appreciated....
john
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 260
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From: South St. Paul, MN
Bikes: Trek 520, Peugeot PX-10
Shifter Question
Yes but will probably have to upgrade entire drive train...indexed started at 7 speed, so new deurailler and 7 speed freewheel for starters...you could go friction downtube shifters that will work with your current components. That's the route I would take, it's the most cost effective. If you really want indexed birifters or barcon, I would recommend buying another bike with the setup you are looking for and sell your current bike unless $ isn't an issue and you look at it as a fun challenge!
#3
Extraordinary Magnitude


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 14,081
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From: Waukesha WI
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
The SIS and Accushift stuff start at 6 speed. The advantage there is that a lot of bikes won't need to be spread going from 5 to 6 speed.
There's lots of ways of getting the shifting on TO the bars. For me- it's been a problem of what's comfortable on the bars, and what seems adorably acceptable in my "vintage" sort of idiom.
The immediate solution is bar end shifters- lots of people love 'em, lots of options. Score a set of the Suntour Barcons for $30 and you don't have to change a thing on your bike. There are solutions like the Retroshift and Kelly Take-Offs that mount other shifters near the brake levers. My personal favorite has been the Suntour Command Shifters. They mount inboard of the brake levers, so they're right there where my hands are where I ride 90% of the time.
You could also get creative since you've probably got "turkey levers" and take off the inboard brake lever extensions and fabricate a mount right onto the existing hole/stud for that...
If you post your ideas of where you're headed- I'm sure there's plenty of people here that'll love to help you get pointed in the right direction.
There's lots of ways of getting the shifting on TO the bars. For me- it's been a problem of what's comfortable on the bars, and what seems adorably acceptable in my "vintage" sort of idiom.
The immediate solution is bar end shifters- lots of people love 'em, lots of options. Score a set of the Suntour Barcons for $30 and you don't have to change a thing on your bike. There are solutions like the Retroshift and Kelly Take-Offs that mount other shifters near the brake levers. My personal favorite has been the Suntour Command Shifters. They mount inboard of the brake levers, so they're right there where my hands are where I ride 90% of the time.
You could also get creative since you've probably got "turkey levers" and take off the inboard brake lever extensions and fabricate a mount right onto the existing hole/stud for that...
If you post your ideas of where you're headed- I'm sure there's plenty of people here that'll love to help you get pointed in the right direction.
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#5
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 8
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From: Auburn Al
Bikes: Le Tour ll
Thanks for the suggestions I’ll look into those options for sure. My rear looks like there would be space to go up to 6 for sure but I’m not as hung up on indexing as I am wanting to move the shifting to the bars.
I know the bike tech has changes a lot since I got the bike in my teens and am looking at how reasonable it is/will be incorporate some of the new options/materials. Right now main things I’m look at needing a new crankset, rims, cables. I’m not worried about keeping it “vintage”…
I’m just trying to piece together options, pair them with benefit/cost etc… I alternate between riding and walking for exercise and using it just cause I like to ride some days, plus am planning on starting to use the bike for errands etc…
I know the bike tech has changes a lot since I got the bike in my teens and am looking at how reasonable it is/will be incorporate some of the new options/materials. Right now main things I’m look at needing a new crankset, rims, cables. I’m not worried about keeping it “vintage”…
I’m just trying to piece together options, pair them with benefit/cost etc… I alternate between riding and walking for exercise and using it just cause I like to ride some days, plus am planning on starting to use the bike for errands etc…
#6
Spin Forest! Spin!
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Arrid Zone-a
Bikes: I used to have many. And I Will again.
The OP's desire is to have indexed shifting at the brake levers...aka brifters. This is assuming the Schwinn's drop bars are to be retained. 7 speed Shimano and possibly Microshift, brifters are available. You will need to upgrade to a 7 speed freewheel, chain, and index compatible rear derailleur.
There is a more economical alternative if changing the drop bars to a flat bar. You can use mtb/hybrid shifter/brake lever combos. You gain indexed shifting at the brake lever without costing an arm and a leg.
There is a more economical alternative if changing the drop bars to a flat bar. You can use mtb/hybrid shifter/brake lever combos. You gain indexed shifting at the brake lever without costing an arm and a leg.
#7
Hogosha Sekai

Joined: Jun 2011
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From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
The OP's desire is to have indexed shifting at the brake levers...aka brifters. This is assuming the Schwinn's drop bars are to be retained. 7 speed Shimano and possibly Microshift, brifters are available. You will need to upgrade to a 7 speed freewheel, chain, and index compatible rear derailleur.
There is a more economical alternative if changing the drop bars to a flat bar. You can use mtb/hybrid shifter/brake lever combos. You gain indexed shifting at the brake lever without costing an arm and a leg.
There is a more economical alternative if changing the drop bars to a flat bar. You can use mtb/hybrid shifter/brake lever combos. You gain indexed shifting at the brake lever without costing an arm and a leg.
OP if you're interested in that let me know and I'll be glad to go over the process as I've done it before.
#8
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 8
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From: Auburn Al
Bikes: Le Tour ll
I'd really like to keep the drop bars, may change them for different ones eventually.
Wouldn’t it be possible to use an index system for 7 on a 5 cog/speed freewheel, and just not use 2 of the positions?
Also I need a new front sprockets/cranckset. Mine is worn extremely and has a broken and chipped teeth, this is the first thing I’m going to change. Currently I have 52/39 could I put a 3 sprocket set on instead of 2?
Wouldn’t it be possible to use an index system for 7 on a 5 cog/speed freewheel, and just not use 2 of the positions?
Also I need a new front sprockets/cranckset. Mine is worn extremely and has a broken and chipped teeth, this is the first thing I’m going to change. Currently I have 52/39 could I put a 3 sprocket set on instead of 2?
#9
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Tampa Bay, Florida
Bikes: 87 Bridgestone 550 (Shocking Electric Metallic Pink)
Changing out your Crankset from 2 to 3 rings, will probably mean a new BB as well, as you will probably need a longer spindle. Perhaps getting a donor bike, with a bent frame, with all the bits on it would be MUCH cheaper than all these bits new.
#10
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race

Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Getting a low-cost road bike equipped with handlebar shifters is as easy as clamping on a pair of suitable, cheap 6-speed thumbshifters, together with a compatible indexing rear derailer.
The shifters with steel clamps can easily be spread around the slightly-fatter alloy bars of a road bike, clamped to either side of the stem clamp.
A steel road handlebar will have the correct diameter for mountainbike thumbshifters, but alloy road bars will require a longer bolt, bent to fit and secured with a nut (so the bent bolt doesn't need to be turned).
A wider road bar is advantageous (gives more room for your hands) when using thumbshifters, especially if brake levers with auxiliary "turkey-wing" brake levers are being used.
There is no problem with a 6-speed thumbshifter being used with a 5-speed freewheel.
7-speed shifters and freewheels all have narrower spacing between gears, so won't work well with 5/6 speed freewheels with traditional "standard" spacing.
The shifters with steel clamps can easily be spread around the slightly-fatter alloy bars of a road bike, clamped to either side of the stem clamp.
A steel road handlebar will have the correct diameter for mountainbike thumbshifters, but alloy road bars will require a longer bolt, bent to fit and secured with a nut (so the bent bolt doesn't need to be turned).
A wider road bar is advantageous (gives more room for your hands) when using thumbshifters, especially if brake levers with auxiliary "turkey-wing" brake levers are being used.
There is no problem with a 6-speed thumbshifter being used with a 5-speed freewheel.
7-speed shifters and freewheels all have narrower spacing between gears, so won't work well with 5/6 speed freewheels with traditional "standard" spacing.
Last edited by dddd; 07-21-13 at 07:24 PM.





