Than not then.

I'm 6' and I ride a 56cm

I'm 6'0" and most of my bikes (well the ones I actually ride, anyway) are 61-63cm. "French Fit" with only 3 or 4" of seat post showing and 2 - 3" of stem, but anything smaller feels cramped. Mostly I've found I need a longer top tube than most guys my size.

Yeah I'd say so sheesh

NEVER &%#K up the original paint if it's in nice shape-- ESPECIALLY if it's a Bridgestone: B'Stone's decals were notorious for (pretty much) flaking or chipping as soon as you looked at them; these days it's hard to find them in such good condition.

FWIW, I almost bought a 700, this same model & color (albeit in a 54), but settled on it's successor, an RB-2. That said, the 700 was an exceptional ride.

The take away is fitting by stand over is not the answer.

I'm 6'1" I prefer 56x59 with a 120 stem and standard reach bars

all I want to do is change my shifters

I may be picking up a rb1 but i'm unsure about the price

broke the cable to my front shifter a few minutes ago riding home from work I'm going to hood rig it till I can get a new cable

Well if you realy want index shifting on the bars unforftenitey you suck with changing most of the drivetrain which is really sweet, or start looking for some vintge 6 or 7 speed Suntour barends. Would note that 6speed Shimano barends with a modern 6speed ramped freewheel will also basically work with your nice Suntour stuff. Any of these changes are pretty costly time and parts wise.

Seriousley ride the vintage downtubes some more ounce you get used to them you should notice that they shift better than most most of the other vintage or newer stuff and you already have them on the bike.

the problem is my bike doesn't have the down tube shifters it has a bar end shifter for the front and a butterfly for the rear but the cable snapped for the front and I am not sure what cable I need to buy. ???

Pretty much all common shifters take a standard shift cable about $4-$5 at most bike shops. If you not sure just take the cable half with the end that goes into the shifter with you.

That end is gone somewhere between rt 10 in east hanover and rt 46 in parsippany lol I think I got it I was worried if it was something crazy but its not and being that the cable is 4 or 5 dollars it most likely will be 25 in my town lol DAMN you cyclecraft

Generally, Bridgestone used pretty much "Standard" stuff for the time period, a lot of Suntour in the mix, so expendables SHOULD be pretty standard/common (except for freewheels...those are starting to dry up)

So it's got an indexed Suntour bar end shifter on the left and a Command Shifter on the right?

And you want integrated brake levers/shifters?

Totally doable- but get the good stuff (Ultegra etc). That bike deserves it. But keep in mind you're probably going to have to replace the front and rear derailleurs and get a new freewheel or cassette if its spaced for Suntour indexing.

If that were mine- I'd go Command Shifters on both sides. I love those things and your bike is already set up for it.

I'm totally envious of your bike- congratulations, it was a great score. The paint looks great- don't repaint it- just touch up the nicks. A lot of people hunt for years to find a bike like yours in the condition yours is in.

BTW- I'm 5'8" and wear 30" trousers- I ride a 21 or 54.

Look...you don't want to begin the slide downward into upgrades yet. Don't listen to folks who tell you to buy Ultegra or whatever. Your drivetrain is currently compatible between all of the components. Keep it that way for 1000 miles, then reconsider what you might want to do.

Bar end shifters are fine, and you will grow accustomed to them in no time. They're kind of nice into the wind, and force you to change hand positions occasionally.

The standard inner shift cable should be no more than $5. Any shop that's higher than that...you should walk out of. One can buy stainless drawn shift cables in bulk for ~$1.45 per cable.

You may be able to replace the inner cable without unwrapping the bar end tape (to expose the housing end (unless it's firmly seated in the SunTour barcon, I can't recall whether there's a simiple flange or some sort of well). Just be patient and observe what you're doing. It's not hard to do correctly. Once you're ready to do the job, post in the mechanics forum, and you'll get instant help...

I'm gonna change the bar end shifter to another butterfly one. I like those and they don't seam to ghost shift on me. I am able to run the inner cable with out unwrapping the tape but I want new tape so I may that while I'm at it if the price is right.

Now I just have to find a good seat.

whoah nvm i'll change the shifter when I'm ready with everything else I can't find just the left side any where

Bought the cable..... plus 5 more, 3 brake cables 4 tubes, and a new set of brake pads


I hate not having extra parts

I am pretty sure that Shimano Brifters are NOT going to play nice with the rear cluster and RD. If you can find a nice pair of 7 speed RSX or 105s, get a freewheel to match and a RD, that would be your cheapest route I think.

I figured that I am going to have problems so I am going to just buy a group set when the time comes for now I just want to maintain it

Get the cables at REI in Hanover, $3.00, just as good and cheaper than Cycle Craft. Much friendlier and faster too. If yours are rusty on the 800 you just got, I can give you a set for brakes and shifters. I buy them by the 100 count box.

PM me your email and I will send you a photo of the Voyager rack, which as a NJ guy, you'll be proud to know is Made in Italy.

gosh I just cant run far enough Lol

The cables are a bit rusty but I think the hanger is bent since the chain keeps hopping of each cog but doesn't fall

Are you running in indexed mode or friction? What condition is the chain?

Chain seems a bit dirty but not rusty and im not sure by what you mean with mode but I would guess friction in the rear and index for the front. Just to make sure we're on the same page this is the trek 800 we're talking about.

Let me be a bit more specific with the problem I'm having, on any gear the chain will sit in the gear 100% but then it sits on top of the teeth of the same gear and if you keep rotating the crank it will reseat its self just to do it again. Problems that I know if that the derailer needs adjusting and the wheel needs truing because it hits the brake. That's as far as I've gotten.

bought a shimano tiagra groupset for cheap that I am going to put on