Yikes!, I didn't think that a BB shell can be that soft!
I wonder if you can insert a pipe through the BB shell and slowly and carefully pound downwards at each end, very close to the BB shell faces on both sides of the shell, moving the pipe around as needed, and hopefully get it as close as possible to perfect roundness, then chase the threads on the shell and re-face it too. At this point, you might have nothing to lose with the frame and even the most aggressive solutions might be worth considering.

I'm not saying to insert the cup. I'm saying to insert the piece that was cut out. Just cut out a 1/4 of the circumference of the cup, and use that small piece of the cup as a protective barrier. One would have to remove the exterior wall of the cup as well. You'd essentially be left with a 1/2"-3/4" wide semi round piece of metal with threading on one side.

Now I follow you.

I think a muffler shop may have a hydraulic version of that exhaust pipe expander that is capable of expanding much heavier head pipes. That might work. It might also destroy the shell.

Gravity is a power force, I have seen this before and yes some shells are that malleable.
As they are, we have had to effect this repair a few times, always most trying on a new frame...
Depending on what shop I was working at there are any number of ways.
The trick is keeping the paint intact.
If you have a solid workbench, drill a hole with a hole saw the OD of the shell, cut it back to allow the BB shell to nest, then using a brass or copper rod with a rounded end and a helper holding the frame, work your way around and into the flat region. When your eyeballs tell you it is near, chase the threads. You do not want to go beyond where you need, just shy with the hammer work, let the tap return things round.

The Exhaust tube expander might do the trick too. But I would be sure to grease things up and still finish with a tap.

I edited one of the pics to show what several folks are talking about, I think (?).
Cut a small piece of cup, maybe 1 inch and place it at the dent. Cut another piece, almost half the diameter, and place it in the opposite side of the BB opening.
Apply a wood cawl (sp) around the outside of the BB and clamp or vice them together, strongly. I only drew the bottom of this, but you would want 2 of them matching perfectly.
Insert the wedge and apply some hydraulic force slowly until you see some movement.

Just a thought.





BTW
Nice job on the restore. I can just imagine that as you removed the old paint, you found all kinds of surface rust under what appeared to be good paint?
Can you tell us about the paint job?
Did you rattle can it or use a Preval spayer?

hardwood drift and a big ass hammer...wont damage the threads

I like the half round hardwood form and half inch rounded brass drift idea.
Plenty of brass rod around here if you need a hunk.

I have a 27.2 titanium seatpost that was used in a frame with a set screw type post clamp. As a result there are several big dents in it. I am going to cut a hardwood block out with a 1-1/16" forstner bit and then slice it in half with a band saw. Then I will clamp the dented section in the vice. I have a piece of steel bar stock I am grinding down to the inner diameter of the post. I will then hammer this in from the bottom (don't worry I'll use lots of grease and have drilled a hole through the bar to I can put a long 6mm allen key through it and turn it out. It's gonna be fun, but is taking forever to do because I have to use the grinder at work and need a friend to find time to help me make the clamping block... This is the same idea we are putting forward here.... I like the idea of hammering a hardwood drift with a pretty solid taper on it. That should work, but it should be clamped in hardwood also. Once you have this set-up you will be able to fit other out of round BBs.. don't worry your BB wasn't 100 percent round to begin with.. You have to be damn good with the torch not to distort it a little when building.

How about a hardwood, or brass, cone with a gradual taper cut on it, the smaller end of which just fits in the shell opening and which has a 1/2 inch hole in the center of it. Run a big bolt through it, held on the other side of the BB with a large washer. Large washer over the brass cone and then a big nut. Hold bolt head in a vise then tighten the nut, pressing the brass cone into the BB shell, pressing out the dent. Brass may not damage the first few threads in the shell.

+1

Cut a threaded cup completely into 4 uniform sections. Hand place 3 (or 4 if all will fit) sections into BB shell threads evenly around circumference. Place expander in the sacrificial sections and work it. Bent section will move first and most.

Take pictures.

J

Thanks for all the input and creative suggestions. I am happy to report a positive end to this thread. With a big thanks to Toytech, who graced my frame with his Campagnolo BB tap. That's all that was required. The Campagnolo tap went in without much of a struggle, and the BB is now installed.

P.s. I did pick up a cracked fixed BB cup from the LBS and broke it into segments, and also got an exhaust pipe expander from an auto parts store that has a free tool rental program. Fortunately, plan A worked before I needed to resort to those other options.

Thanks! Yes, I did hope to salvage the original paint, but it was beyond the point of no return. I did two extended oxalic acid baths. The first bath got rid of the surface rust, but there were many rust spiders (thin lines of rust under the paint). I tried to poke those open with a razor to allow the OA to seep into those rust lines. It was a time-consuming process, and in the end it still required a full strip & sand. The rust had also created some bumpiness that needed to be filed smooth in places, most notably on the top headtube lug and the

All rattle can, but with automotive paint. I brought the frame and tried to match the original color as close as possible. I used a grey primer and then a pearl silver auto paint in a can and auto paint clear. I started with the fork and wound up doing it twice before moving on to the frame. The first attempt shooting clear on the fork came out a just slightly cloudy. The paint store advised me that the paint probably dried partially in the air between the can and the fork, and to hold the can even closer to the frame--say about 8 inches or so. Came out much better the second go around. I don't enjoy painting, but, eventually, I'd like to invest in a spray bottle, since the can doesn't come out as evenly as I'd like. Especially at the end of a can, you have to watch out for little splatter drops. The gold lug lining I did by hand. Decals from Velocals.

I hate to say I told ya! Good news and glad it worked out for you.

But ...wait!

We're not done fixing it yet.

NO MORE DROPPING!!!! Sounds like the kind of stunt I'd manage to do!!! Looking good, keep moving forward now.

Yes, the whole story reminds me of a guitar I built. I stuck the neck into a ceiling fan twice (once just wasn't enough). Keep that bad boy on the ground from now on.

That's nothing. I tossed my toddler into one.

That paint looks really good in person too. Good times