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Cannondale Serial Number Question

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Old 09-11-13 | 08:30 PM
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Cannondale Serial Number Question

Picked up a Cannondale 3.0 this afternoon and I found what I believe to be the serial number on the bottom of the chain stay. Can anyone verify that I am decoding this correctly?


45309880015

So that should be

4: The rear dropout spacing [?]
53: The frame size [53cm]
0988: Production date [Sep 1988]
0015: Sequence Number [?]

Does this sound about right? It has the 1980's house headbadge so i think the above is correct and full 105 groupset, but i'm not sure when they changed from Shimano 600 to 105. Also what is the 4 equal to in terms of dropout spacing. The wheelbase seems really short so maybe criterium frame?
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Old 09-11-13 | 09:01 PM
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QNelson, All but the drop out spacing matches up. My 2/89 frame is the other S/N version w/o dropout info. Actually a 4 in the drop out spacing (if for 126 mm) would make more sense than a 0 as to not confuse the two schemes.

Brad

Last edited by bradtx; 09-12-13 at 02:50 PM. Reason: sp and corr
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Old 09-12-13 | 06:20 AM
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https://www.vintagecannondale.com/ Click on the Serial numbers link, the breakdown of the various serial number formats is on that page. I cannot reconcile your given serial number with those shown there. The catalogs are also included in .pdf format so you can see the various models available for a particular year.

Maybe it is as Brad said, I wish the good Doctor would give us his input here.

Bill

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Old 09-12-13 | 07:16 AM
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Yes, the interpretation is correct. Specifically, it's a 1989 SR600. We know it's not a 1988 model because the 3.0 frame was new for 1989. During this era, most manufacturers started building the new models in the autumn to have the new models available for Christmas sales and adequate stock for the spring.

Cannondale introduced their first 105 equipped model in 1987, when Shimano introduced the New 105 group. However, it it did not replace the 600 equipped model. The 600 bicycle retained it's upper mid-range position on the lineup while the New 105 equipped model occupied the the lower mid-range slot, replacing the SunTour Cyclone equipped model.

Sorry, I don't know the Cannondale dropout spacing codes, but New 105 was 7 speed in 1989 and had an over locknut dimension of 126mm.

(24)

Edit: Bradtx is right in the following post. There was also an SR400 with 6 speed New 105 in 1989.

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Old 09-12-13 | 08:09 AM
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QNelson, For the '89 model year Cannondale had only one frame in the SR line-up, the crit frame. There were two 105 models that year with one 6S and the other 7S.

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Old 09-12-13 | 10:23 AM
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So the SR400 is a 6spd and the SR600 was a 7, but the frame for the whole line-up was the same one correct?
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Old 09-12-13 | 11:46 AM
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Pics would help, but based on the numbers and description it would appear you have a VERY early example of the 1989 SR600 model. Is yours 6 or 7 speed? I think the 7 speed stuff was introduced late in 1989, but who knows when your bike was built in relation to the frame construction date...

If the serial truly has 4 as the first digit, that's either an early production error or an indication that the dropouts were 128mm (halfway between 126 and 130). I've seen a number of 128mm frames but none with 4 as the first numeral. On the other hand, my experience with 1989 and later stuff is somewhat limited as I prefer the older 83-88 frame designs. If an SR600, likely it also has an aluminum fork (check with a magnet).
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Old 09-12-13 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rccardr
Pics would help, but based on the numbers and description it would appear you have a VERY early example of the 1989 SR600 model. Is yours 6 or 7 speed? I think the 7 speed stuff was introduced late in 1989, but who knows when your bike was built in relation to the frame construction date...

If the serial truly has 4 as the first digit, that's either an early production error or an indication that the dropouts were 128mm (halfway between 126 and 130). I've seen a number of 128mm frames but none with 4 as the first numeral. On the other hand, my experience with 1989 and later stuff is somewhat limited as I prefer the older 83-88 frame designs. If an SR600, likely it also has an aluminum fork (check with a magnet).
Awesome, I'll take some pictures this afternoon after work, but i'm fairly certain it had a steel fork so that would mean a SR400? Regardless I'll upload some pics of the bike, components, and Serial Number as well. On some further research I'm starting to read some pretty disturbing tales of "Crack and Fail"? Any insight on that?
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Old 09-12-13 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by QNelson
Awesome, I'll take some pictures this afternoon after work, but i'm fairly certain it had a steel fork so that would mean a SR400? Regardless I'll upload some pics of the bike, components, and Serial Number as well. On some further research I'm starting to read some pretty disturbing tales of "Crack and Fail"? Any insight on that?
That depends, does yours have a dent in the drive side chainstay?
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Old 09-12-13 | 03:10 PM
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QNelson, I checked my '86 frame ('88 SR500 build) and it uses the same S/N scheme as my '89 frame. I should have checked that yesterday , but forgot to. I really have no idea what the "4" in your S/N represents. Measure the inside face distance of the rear drop outs as, rccardr, may have a good point.

There is concern regarding aluminum damage. Generally it takes a dent well, as long as there are no sharp creases that could begin to tear.
Brad
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Old 09-12-13 | 07:13 PM
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They ALL have drive side dents in the chainstay. Some have two and one on the NDS side. All for clearance: chainring, heel.

If that frame was going to crack at the BB or head tube, it would have happened already. Never seen one myself, but a few did crack back in the day.
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Old 09-12-13 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bradtx
QNelson, I checked my '86 frame ('88 SR500 build) and it uses the same S/N scheme as my '89 frame. I should have checked that yesterday , but forgot to. I really have no idea what the "4" in your S/N represents. Measure the inside face distance of the rear drop outs as, rccardr, may have a good point.

There is concern regarding aluminum damage. Generally it takes a dent well, as long as there are no sharp creases that could begin to tear.
Brad
Originally Posted by rccardr
Pics would help, but based on the numbers and description it would appear you have a VERY early example of the 1989 SR600 model. Is yours 6 or 7 speed? I think the 7 speed stuff was introduced late in 1989, but who knows when your bike was built in relation to the frame construction date...

If the serial truly has 4 as the first digit, that's either an early production error or an indication that the dropouts were 128mm (halfway between 126 and 130). I've seen a number of 128mm frames but none with 4 as the first numeral. On the other hand, my experience with 1989 and later stuff is somewhat limited as I prefer the older 83-88 frame designs. If an SR600, likely it also has an aluminum fork (check with a magnet).
Originally Posted by Cache
That depends, does yours have a dent in the drive side chainstay?
Doesn't appear to be any dents on the chainstays so yea for that. Below are some pictures of it as it sits right now. If there is anything specific you guys need to see I can take more. Its a 6spd and looks like a lugged steel fork so I'm assuming that means this is a ST400 model?




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Old 09-12-13 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rccardr
They ALL have drive side dents in the chainstay. Some have two and one on the NDS side. All for clearance: chainring, heel.

If that frame was going to crack at the BB or head tube, it would have happened already. Never seen one myself, but a few did crack back in the day.
Ya sorry i meant other then those two dents which I was assuming were suppose to be there.
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Old 09-12-13 | 07:47 PM
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Yes, the 'dents' are for crank ring and heel/crank arm clearance. I was just teasing earlier when you were wondering as to the durability of your aluminum frame. Looks like you have a steel front fork unless what I'm assuming are a few surface rust spots are grease or dirt. If I recall correctly, the 1990 model year switched to aluminum front fork. Nice looking bike; that Crit frame may be a bit twitchy until you are used to it, but it is super responsive and can accelerate like no one's business. And again, have no worries about frame strength. I'm riding a 63cm version and its held up to my abuse more than admirably. Enjoy the ride!
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Old 09-13-13 | 03:09 AM
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QNelson, Definitely a SR400. My '89 is a Mystic Blue CR300 (frame set code). Nothing about what I see of yours raises an alarm. For some reason yours has a clamp-on FD, but otherwise looks mostly original, congrats on a nice find! Yes, the chain stay dents are purposely there.

Because the cable housing guides atop the TT are very hard to find, be gentle removing and installing the rear brake's housing.

Brad
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Old 09-13-13 | 06:25 AM
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Not an ST400. Those had longer chain-stays. That's the race frame.

Yes, you're reading the serial number correctly, but I also don't know what the 4 means for sure. The scheme matches that of my 1987 R400. The previous owner did me the favor of upgrading it all to Shimano 600.

Yes, these bikes had short wheelbases. My 60cm R400/600 is slightly shorter in wheelbase than my 2013 CAAD10 (as noted every time I load it on my roof rack). Old bike still rides great, though.
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Old 09-13-13 | 06:32 AM
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Nice bike, it reminds me of the 91 '300 I had, only in a black colourway. Yours has a unique appearance with the blue and white theme. These are good bikes, as said, glad that T-Mar and the Doc chimed in here, as well as all the others. I'm just a big time Cannondale fan myself, I am on my third now and plan to keep riding them.

Bill
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Old 09-13-13 | 09:27 AM
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Thanks for all of the help guys I really appreciate it. I think the plan is to just ride it as is with some toe-clips and then tear it down for a good cleaning when it gets too cold to ride. Has anyone done the steel to carbon fork swap? I'm wondering if its worth the investment. I see Nashbar has a 1'' threaded for $80.
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Old 09-13-13 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by QNelson
Thanks for all of the help guys I really appreciate it. I think the plan is to just ride it as is with some toe-clips and then tear it down for a good cleaning when it gets too cold to ride. Has anyone done the steel to carbon fork swap? I'm wondering if its worth the investment. I see Nashbar has a 1'' threaded for $80.
Others have swapped in the Nashbar carbon fork and have been happy. I've had a few Cannondales with steel, aluminum and carbon forks and there's little difference riding, but you will surely cut a little weight with one.

Brad
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Old 09-06-17 | 10:19 AM
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I cant figure out how to read the serial number on my bike its ca 07889 can someone please help also
118 35w15
how much would this bike be worth?
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Old 09-06-17 | 10:22 AM
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learned something new everyday about my cannondale!
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Old 09-06-17 | 10:23 AM
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id post a picture but i have to post 10 times before I can use a URL
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Old 09-06-17 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by seek2love1
id post a picture but i have to post 10 times before I can use a URL
Welcome to the forums. You should be able to upload pics rigth from your computer. Click on the"Go Advance" button under this window then click on the Paperclip at the top of the new window.

Is your Cannondale a road bike or road bike? Are the shifters mounted on the frame or handlebars? What brand and model are the components?

This may be somewhat helpful Vintage Cannondale ? Serial Numbers & Information | VintageCannondale.com
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Old 01-26-18 | 09:32 AM
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Cannondale Serial number help

Can anyone help identify this serial number.

Its from a Cannondale SR600

Shimano 105 components.

Catalog research and component dating put it somewhere in the late 80's or early 90's.
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Old 01-27-18 | 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by steelcollector
Can anyone help identify this serial number.

Its from a Cannondale SR600

Shimano 105 components.

Catalog research and component dating put it somewhere in the late 80's or early 90's.
I am guessing here.

It looks like there is a mis-stamped digit. The sixth digit looks like it could be a "9", stamped lower than the rest of the numbers.

If so that would date the frame to year 1991.
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