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Most recent SNAFU, while underway.

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View Poll Results: Most recent SNAFU while underway?
Flat (tube or valve)
26
35.14%
Flat (tire or tubular)
7
9.46%
Wheel, skewer or spokes
7
9.46%
Bars or stem
7
9.46%
Seatpost or saddle
5
6.76%
Chain
10
13.51%
Shifters or drivetrain
10
13.51%
Brake system
4
5.41%
Engine
4
5.41%
Other
9
12.16%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 74. You may not vote on this poll

Most recent SNAFU, while underway.

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Old 10-21-13 | 09:51 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by RubberLegs
Last rolling "SNAFU" was a blowout on my 70'ish Torpado, rear tire blowout about 1 1/5 miles out. Had just pulled over and turned around to head home because the silly Itallian BB fixed cup had started backing itself out (I noticed FD chain rub and Crank felt sloppy)....BANG!!!! The old 27x1 1/4 slipped off the straight walled Weinmann Rim and let the tube escape...the tube in turn, let 75 PSI of air escape...5" tear in the tube...ummm, NOT patchable....

Hmmmmmmm, a little duct tape should take care of that!
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Old 10-21-13 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Wanderer
Hmmmmmmm, a little duct tape should take care of that!
High Pressure Duct Tape? :-) Gotta Get me some!
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Old 10-21-13 | 10:06 AM
  #28  
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Mine's an easy lesson - don't ride really old tubulars. But I was prepared with my [lumpy] YJ spare.

Although I did determine that my super glue worked as intended. I had an old Vittoria Mondial that I knew was near the end, and had multiple slits and cuts in the tread. I used superglue in each of these cuts, and all those held up fine. The loud bang ripped the tire apart across the entire casing. Pretty amusing, actually.

And granted, it was a rear tire (I'm only a partial fool, wouldn't have ridden it on the front), but I had absolutely no loss of control during/post-explosion. Tubulars are really nice that way.
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Last edited by Ex Pres; 10-21-13 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 10-21-13 | 10:12 AM
  #29  
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Went for an outing duirng the Gubment shutdown on my Colnago that i recently added a Super R post. Lubed the post, as we all should do, and tightened using a Campagnolo binder. The ride ended up being slightly over 33 miles with the post slipping down about an inch and the saddle rotating back about 15 degrees! Snapped the binder during removal (replaced with Sugino binder) and wiped the post and ST of excess (couldn't see any) grease. I read somewhere here that the single bolt post has this problem of allowing the saddle to rotate. The fix, IIRC, is to rough up the two surfaces to increase the coeficient of friction, YTBD (yet to be done)!

Another issue arose during the ride, but not a SNAFU, was the discovery that I could only ride no hands while canting the bike to the right. Checked the wheel set (purchased on CL) and found that there was dish to one side on the front and an equal amount in the back. Lesson learned: check newly purchased wheel sets for offeset! Improved uniformaty of tension in the process. The front wheel spokes measured 5 units on the Park tension meter! The rear was fine for tension.
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Old 10-21-13 | 10:59 AM
  #30  
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I rode a century with rhm earlier this year through the hills in NJ. At some point, the bike starts creaking with every stroke. I wonder what that is, but keep going.

The next day, I take the train back to NY city, and as I'm getting off the train, my wheel falls off the fork. It held in place by the front brake, so it didn't go too far. The quick release wasn't snugged down tight enough.
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Old 10-21-13 | 11:31 AM
  #31  
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This didn't happen while riding, but it is a head scratcher:
Was starting the build on a nicely repainted Faema Merckx Professional. Right dropout adjuster goes in just fine. but threads on left side dropout don't want to play nice with the screw. Try another screw, same thing. Pull out my trusty 3mm tap, oil it and run it into the dropout. Get it almost all the way through and hear that terrible 'krack!' sound as the tap breaks off inside the dropout.

It's too far in (on both ends) and too stuck to tease it out, too small for a tap remover, and too hard to drill it out and retap the dropout. Now trying to decide whether to pay the $60 to EDM it or just live with no adjuster screws.

Dang.
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Old 10-21-13 | 12:05 PM
  #32  
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Flatted a cheap YJ tubular. First a bubble formed under the thread where the tube had crept through casing, and then popped not long after that. Only had about 400 miles on the tire. Solution: Upgrade tires & relegate those YJs for spares.
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Old 10-21-13 | 01:23 PM
  #33  
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First ride on the new tandem (95 Santana Visa). I knew the gearing was tall and we would suffer, however I had no idea....54/44/28 and 13/21 do not a good ride make, at least the kicker at the end. Then, a closer inspection of the cassette, after hearing weird popping noises, revealed that teeth were breaking off.

You can move right along on a slight downhill with those gears!

New stuff on the way.
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Old 10-21-13 | 01:46 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rccardr
This didn't happen while riding, but it is a head scratcher:
Was starting the build on a nicely repainted Faema Merckx Professional. Right dropout adjuster goes in just fine. but threads on left side dropout don't want to play nice with the screw. Try another screw, same thing. Pull out my trusty 3mm tap, oil it and run it into the dropout. Get it almost all the way through and hear that terrible 'krack!' sound as the tap breaks off inside the dropout.

It's too far in (on both ends) and too stuck to tease it out, too small for a tap remover, and too hard to drill it out and retap the dropout. Now trying to decide whether to pay the $60 to EDM it or just live with no adjuster screws.

Dang.
Hate when that happens! Any one time is to frequent!

I would determine the length needed that protrudes from the hole and cut a length + hole depth and stick it in. For esthetics, you could take the rest and put it on the other end of the threads with the tap as the meat of a sandwich. This will work until you decide what you are going to do. Do you know how long the broken part of the tap is? Would EDM really work without destroying the threads or drop out?
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Old 10-21-13 | 01:52 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Ex Pres
Use the open end wrench that you're using to tighten the rear wheel nuts to gauge chain tension. It should hit both sides, but no looser.
I'm not following. Rephrase, please?
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Old 10-21-13 | 01:56 PM
  #36  
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I wasn't clear on that either. The rule I've heard (from Sheldon, I believe) for fixed chain tension is about an inch of vertical play total. Another factor is chainline: it's particularly important for fixed gears to have nice straight chains.
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Old 10-21-13 | 01:57 PM
  #37  
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When testing my bike for L'Eroica this summer I found that the Challenge Grifo XS tires I had mounted would rotate ever so slightly slightly faster than the rims under downhill braking causing the valve stems to shear off. Went through half a dozen inner tubes before giving up on that tire/rim combination.
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Old 10-21-13 | 02:09 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
I recently added this CODA crankset to my Cannondale hybrid to turn it into an 81 speed (9X3X3).



Above is just the CNC chainrings milled from one piece of aluminum and you can see the slot where the crankarm is bolted to the rings.

Well the thing is annoying to no end. It pops and creaks with nearly every revolution. I'm assuming it is at the junction between the arm and the rings. Maybe I need to remove the arm and add some grease between the two pieces. Any other suggestions?
Hmm, didn't I see that in the MOBI? https://pardo.net/bike/pic/mobi/b.coda-502m-crank.html
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Old 10-21-13 | 04:30 PM
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Goatsheads. I hate freakin' goatsheads. SO MANY PUNCTURES.
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Old 10-21-13 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by expatbrit
Goatsheads. I hate freakin' goatsheads. SO MANY PUNCTURES.
... and. Yes. Slimed tubes, heavy tubes, the buggers get me repeatedly. *sigh*
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Old 10-21-13 | 04:59 PM
  #41  
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Nearly destroyed a ofmega crank "taking the pedal off" the wrong way. Caught it just in time when I noticed nice littl metal shavings.

Lessons learned

* take pedal off before taking crank off

* think twice and once again before using a cheater bar
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Old 10-21-13 | 06:12 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
I recently added this CODA crankset to my Cannondale hybrid to turn it into an 81 speed (9X3X3).



Above is just the CNC chainrings milled from one piece of aluminum and you can see the slot where the crankarm is bolted to the rings.

Well the thing is annoying to no end. It pops and creaks with nearly every revolution. I'm assuming it is at the junction between the arm and the rings. Maybe I need to remove the arm and add some grease between the two pieces. Any other suggestions?
Try a square cut from a FedEx TYVEK package.
Forgot where I read that...
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Old 10-21-13 | 06:18 PM
  #43  
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Get's dark out too soon. I have to take the short way home after work. In two weeks, the commuting season is over. Suck.
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Old 10-21-13 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by expatbrit
Goatsheads. I hate freakin' goatsheads. SO MANY PUNCTURES.
Ever tried tire savers? They help in goathead country.
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Old 10-21-13 | 06:43 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Hudson308
Try a square cut from a FedEx TYVEK package.
Forgot where I read that...
Great idea!
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Old 10-21-13 | 06:58 PM
  #46  
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Bent front derailleur cage resulting in poor shifting and occasional chain drop.

New front derailleur works much better!
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Old 10-21-13 | 07:06 PM
  #47  
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Suck, as in chain-suck, as in SRAM chainrings suck...

TA's were ordered within 15 minutes after getting home from the afternoon MTB ride.
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Old 10-21-13 | 07:32 PM
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Robbie, I have to vote engine as my knee is a p1sser at the moment and any bike build issues have been by my own hand. Most dramatic was about the fifth ride on a bike when I grabbed a big handful of front brake and the drops rotated way down. No dramatic crash or anything, I just missed the turn and ran off into the shoulder.

Brad
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Old 10-21-13 | 07:36 PM
  #49  
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30 miles on a brand new Marathon. It left a big hole that I stuck a patch over. At least I got to see the "Green Guard" in the flesh.


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Old 10-21-13 | 08:06 PM
  #50  
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TIRES seem to be "WINNING"!
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