View Poll Results: Most recent SNAFU while underway?
Flat (tube or valve)



26
35.14%
Flat (tire or tubular)



7
9.46%
Wheel, skewer or spokes



7
9.46%
Bars or stem



7
9.46%
Seatpost or saddle



5
6.76%
Chain



10
13.51%
Shifters or drivetrain



10
13.51%
Brake system



4
5.41%
Engine



4
5.41%
Other



9
12.16%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 74. You may not vote on this poll
Most recent SNAFU, while underway.
#26
aka Phil Jungels
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,234
Likes: 91
From: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
Last rolling "SNAFU" was a blowout on my 70'ish Torpado, rear tire blowout about 1 1/5 miles out. Had just pulled over and turned around to head home because the silly Itallian BB fixed cup had started backing itself out (I noticed FD chain rub and Crank felt sloppy)....BANG!!!! The old 27x1 1/4 slipped off the straight walled Weinmann Rim and let the tube escape...the tube in turn, let 75 PSI of air escape...5" tear in the tube...ummm, NOT patchable....
Hmmmmmmm, a little duct tape should take care of that!
#27
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,698
Likes: 6
From: Tampa Bay, Florida
Bikes: 87 Bridgestone 550 (Shocking Electric Metallic Pink)
#28
Mine's an easy lesson - don't ride really old tubulars. But I was prepared with my [lumpy] YJ spare.
Although I did determine that my super glue worked as intended. I had an old Vittoria Mondial that I knew was near the end, and had multiple slits and cuts in the tread. I used superglue in each of these cuts, and all those held up fine. The loud bang ripped the tire apart across the entire casing. Pretty amusing, actually.
And granted, it was a rear tire (I'm only a partial fool, wouldn't have ridden it on the front), but I had absolutely no loss of control during/post-explosion. Tubulars are really nice that way.
Although I did determine that my super glue worked as intended. I had an old Vittoria Mondial that I knew was near the end, and had multiple slits and cuts in the tread. I used superglue in each of these cuts, and all those held up fine. The loud bang ripped the tire apart across the entire casing. Pretty amusing, actually.
And granted, it was a rear tire (I'm only a partial fool, wouldn't have ridden it on the front), but I had absolutely no loss of control during/post-explosion. Tubulars are really nice that way.
__________________
72 Frejus (for sale), Holdsworth Record (for sale), special CNC & Gitane Interclub / 74 Italvega NR (for sale) / c80 French / 82 Raleigh Intl MkII f&f (for sale)/ 83 Trek 620 (for sale)/ 84 Bruce Gordon Chinook (for sale)/ 85 Ron Cooper / 87 Centurion IM MV (for sale) / 03 Casati Dardo / 08 BF IRO / 09 Dogma FPX / 09 Giant TCX0 / 10 Vassago Fisticuff
72 Frejus (for sale), Holdsworth Record (for sale), special CNC & Gitane Interclub / 74 Italvega NR (for sale) / c80 French / 82 Raleigh Intl MkII f&f (for sale)/ 83 Trek 620 (for sale)/ 84 Bruce Gordon Chinook (for sale)/ 85 Ron Cooper / 87 Centurion IM MV (for sale) / 03 Casati Dardo / 08 BF IRO / 09 Dogma FPX / 09 Giant TCX0 / 10 Vassago Fisticuff
Last edited by Ex Pres; 10-21-13 at 10:09 AM.
#29
Senior Member


Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,106
Likes: 2,762
From: Fredericksburg, Va
Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
Went for an outing duirng the Gubment shutdown on my Colnago that i recently added a Super R post. Lubed the post, as we all should do, and tightened using a Campagnolo binder. The ride ended up being slightly over 33 miles with the post slipping down about an inch and the saddle rotating back about 15 degrees! Snapped the binder during removal (replaced with Sugino binder) and wiped the post and ST of excess (couldn't see any) grease. I read somewhere here that the single bolt post has this problem of allowing the saddle to rotate. The fix, IIRC, is to rough up the two surfaces to increase the coeficient of friction, YTBD (yet to be done)!
Another issue arose during the ride, but not a SNAFU, was the discovery that I could only ride no hands while canting the bike to the right. Checked the wheel set (purchased on CL) and found that there was dish to one side on the front and an equal amount in the back. Lesson learned: check newly purchased wheel sets for offeset! Improved uniformaty of tension in the process. The front wheel spokes measured 5 units on the Park tension meter! The rear was fine for tension.
Another issue arose during the ride, but not a SNAFU, was the discovery that I could only ride no hands while canting the bike to the right. Checked the wheel set (purchased on CL) and found that there was dish to one side on the front and an equal amount in the back. Lesson learned: check newly purchased wheel sets for offeset! Improved uniformaty of tension in the process. The front wheel spokes measured 5 units on the Park tension meter! The rear was fine for tension.
#30
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 104
From: New York, NY
Bikes: Black Mountain Cycles Road and canti MX, Cannondale CAAD12, Bob Jackson Vigorelli
I rode a century with rhm earlier this year through the hills in NJ. At some point, the bike starts creaking with every stroke. I wonder what that is, but keep going.
The next day, I take the train back to NY city, and as I'm getting off the train, my wheel falls off the fork. It held in place by the front brake, so it didn't go too far. The quick release wasn't snugged down tight enough.
The next day, I take the train back to NY city, and as I'm getting off the train, my wheel falls off the fork. It held in place by the front brake, so it didn't go too far. The quick release wasn't snugged down tight enough.
#31
This didn't happen while riding, but it is a head scratcher:
Was starting the build on a nicely repainted Faema Merckx Professional. Right dropout adjuster goes in just fine. but threads on left side dropout don't want to play nice with the screw. Try another screw, same thing. Pull out my trusty 3mm tap, oil it and run it into the dropout. Get it almost all the way through and hear that terrible 'krack!' sound as the tap breaks off inside the dropout.
It's too far in (on both ends) and too stuck to tease it out, too small for a tap remover, and too hard to drill it out and retap the dropout. Now trying to decide whether to pay the $60 to EDM it or just live with no adjuster screws.
Dang.
Was starting the build on a nicely repainted Faema Merckx Professional. Right dropout adjuster goes in just fine. but threads on left side dropout don't want to play nice with the screw. Try another screw, same thing. Pull out my trusty 3mm tap, oil it and run it into the dropout. Get it almost all the way through and hear that terrible 'krack!' sound as the tap breaks off inside the dropout.
It's too far in (on both ends) and too stuck to tease it out, too small for a tap remover, and too hard to drill it out and retap the dropout. Now trying to decide whether to pay the $60 to EDM it or just live with no adjuster screws.
Dang.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
#32
Senior Member


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 7,723
Likes: 4,174
From: Berkeley, CA
Bikes: 72 Cilo Pacer, 72 Gitane GT, 72 Peugeot PX10, 73 Speedwell Ti,l, 75 Peugeot PR-10L, 80 Colnago Super, 81 Zinn, 85 ALAN Cross, 85 De Rosa Pro, 86 Look 753, 86 Look KG86, 89 Parkpre Team, 90 Parkpre Team MTB, 90 Merlin
Flatted a cheap YJ tubular. First a bubble formed under the thread where the tube had crept through casing, and then popped not long after that. Only had about 400 miles on the tire. Solution: Upgrade tires & relegate those YJs for spares.
#33
Senior Member


Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 850
Likes: 5
From: Cowan Heights, CA
Bikes: Wizard, Eisentraut, Paramount, Litton, Turner, Surley, Trek, Kona, Landshark, Hujsak, Masi, Tesch, Holland, Retrotec, Spectrum
First ride on the new tandem (95 Santana Visa). I knew the gearing was tall and we would suffer, however I had no idea....54/44/28 and 13/21 do not a good ride make, at least the kicker at the end. Then, a closer inspection of the cassette, after hearing weird popping noises, revealed that teeth were breaking off.
You can move right along on a slight downhill with those gears!
New stuff on the way.
You can move right along on a slight downhill with those gears!
New stuff on the way.
#34
Senior Member


Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,106
Likes: 2,762
From: Fredericksburg, Va
Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
This didn't happen while riding, but it is a head scratcher:
Was starting the build on a nicely repainted Faema Merckx Professional. Right dropout adjuster goes in just fine. but threads on left side dropout don't want to play nice with the screw. Try another screw, same thing. Pull out my trusty 3mm tap, oil it and run it into the dropout. Get it almost all the way through and hear that terrible 'krack!' sound as the tap breaks off inside the dropout.
It's too far in (on both ends) and too stuck to tease it out, too small for a tap remover, and too hard to drill it out and retap the dropout. Now trying to decide whether to pay the $60 to EDM it or just live with no adjuster screws.
Dang.
Was starting the build on a nicely repainted Faema Merckx Professional. Right dropout adjuster goes in just fine. but threads on left side dropout don't want to play nice with the screw. Try another screw, same thing. Pull out my trusty 3mm tap, oil it and run it into the dropout. Get it almost all the way through and hear that terrible 'krack!' sound as the tap breaks off inside the dropout.
It's too far in (on both ends) and too stuck to tease it out, too small for a tap remover, and too hard to drill it out and retap the dropout. Now trying to decide whether to pay the $60 to EDM it or just live with no adjuster screws.
Dang.
I would determine the length needed that protrudes from the hole and cut a length + hole depth and stick it in. For esthetics, you could take the rest and put it on the other end of the threads with the tap as the meat of a sandwich. This will work until you decide what you are going to do. Do you know how long the broken part of the tap is? Would EDM really work without destroying the threads or drop out?
#35
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
Likes: 597
From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
#36
I wasn't clear on that either. The rule I've heard (from Sheldon, I believe) for fixed chain tension is about an inch of vertical play total. Another factor is chainline: it's particularly important for fixed gears to have nice straight chains.
#37
Cyclotouriste


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 11,792
Likes: 7,015
From: South Holland, NL
Bikes: Yes, please.
When testing my bike for L'Eroica this summer I found that the Challenge Grifo XS tires I had mounted would rotate ever so slightly slightly faster than the rims under downhill braking causing the valve stems to shear off. Went through half a dozen inner tubes before giving up on that tire/rim combination.
#38
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,676
Likes: 2,643
From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
I recently added this CODA crankset to my Cannondale hybrid to turn it into an 81 speed (9X3X3). 

Above is just the CNC chainrings milled from one piece of aluminum and you can see the slot where the crankarm is bolted to the rings.
Well the thing is annoying to no end. It pops and creaks with nearly every revolution. I'm assuming it is at the junction between the arm and the rings. Maybe I need to remove the arm and add some grease between the two pieces. Any other suggestions?


Above is just the CNC chainrings milled from one piece of aluminum and you can see the slot where the crankarm is bolted to the rings.
Well the thing is annoying to no end. It pops and creaks with nearly every revolution. I'm assuming it is at the junction between the arm and the rings. Maybe I need to remove the arm and add some grease between the two pieces. Any other suggestions?
https://pardo.net/bike/pic/mobi/b.coda-502m-crank.html
#40
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 820
Likes: 17
From: 'burque, holmes
Bikes: Ridley X-Fire (now an ex-bicycle), Trek X-Cal, Giant Defy 3
#41
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,495
Likes: 4,912
From: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, 86 De Rosa Pro, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Nearly destroyed a ofmega crank "taking the pedal off" the wrong way. Caught it just in time when I noticed nice littl metal shavings.
Lessons learned
* take pedal off before taking crank off
* think twice and once again before using a cheater bar
Lessons learned
* take pedal off before taking crank off
* think twice and once again before using a cheater bar
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
#42
Mr. Anachronism


Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 293
From: Somewhere west of Tobie's
Bikes: fillet-brazed Chicago Schwinns, and some other stuff
I recently added this CODA crankset to my Cannondale hybrid to turn it into an 81 speed (9X3X3). 

Above is just the CNC chainrings milled from one piece of aluminum and you can see the slot where the crankarm is bolted to the rings.
Well the thing is annoying to no end. It pops and creaks with nearly every revolution. I'm assuming it is at the junction between the arm and the rings. Maybe I need to remove the arm and add some grease between the two pieces. Any other suggestions?


Above is just the CNC chainrings milled from one piece of aluminum and you can see the slot where the crankarm is bolted to the rings.
Well the thing is annoying to no end. It pops and creaks with nearly every revolution. I'm assuming it is at the junction between the arm and the rings. Maybe I need to remove the arm and add some grease between the two pieces. Any other suggestions?
Forgot where I read that...
__________________
"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
#45
Freewheel Medic



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 13,569
Likes: 3,314
From: An Island on the Coast of GA!
Bikes: Snazzy* Schwinns, Classy Cannondales & a Super Pro Aero Lotus (* Ed.)
Great idea!
__________________
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
#48
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 7,579
Likes: 6
From: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
Robbie, I have to vote engine as my knee is a p1sser at the moment and any bike build issues have been by my own hand.
Most dramatic was about the fifth ride on a bike when I grabbed a big handful of front brake and the drops rotated way down. No dramatic crash or anything, I just missed the turn and ran off into the shoulder.
Brad
Most dramatic was about the fifth ride on a bike when I grabbed a big handful of front brake and the drops rotated way down. No dramatic crash or anything, I just missed the turn and ran off into the shoulder.Brad






