I need to remove bent horizontal dropout Screws. The good news is that they will unscrew with some careful handling with a pliers, so they are not frozen or stripped.

I need to remove these without any possibility of breakage. I'll need to source replacements also, any suggestions on where to find replacements?

Maybe tap them with a rubber mallet to straighten them

lots of replacement choices on ebay

edit: lots of (cheap) choices if you search "dropout adjustment screw sets with springs"

used to be tougher to find, loose screws was a good source.

Is it possible to screw them forward and out the front of the dropout, so that the bent part doesn't have to pass through the hole? My dropout screws have little wingnuts on the back end that are removable which would probably allow this. Just a thought.

I've been able to straighten a bent dropout adjuster screw before without any problems by using long nose pliers with it's jaws padded up with a rag to avoid damaging the threads while the screw was still installed in the dropout. Just take it really slow and careful and you should be able to do it without breaking the screw. You do not really have to worry about weakening the screw when bending it back as the screw does not really have any loads on it when the wheel is installed in the dropouts once the skewers is tightened...
If the screw is bent really bad, like maybe over 45 degrees from straight, I'd just rather replace it with a new one as it will have a much bigger chance of breaking on you if you try to straighten it.

The last time around I used a Dremel to cut the bent end off, then a small file to clean the remainder of any sharp burrs before threading it out with a lot of lubricant.
I didn't want to take a chance of damaging the threads in the dropout.

If you are not hung up on authenticity, then VO has dropout screws available. Good idea to invest in a tap for the dropout threads, also.

It takes patience but here's how I do it:

1. Determine which end is bent. Is it the end outside the dropout or inside?

2a: Inside bend. Turn screw so the the 'bend' is down. Use flat blade screw driver to bent screw 'up'. Rotate screw. If its still bent rotate so the bend is down, straighten with flat blade screw driver.

2b. Outside bend. Similar technique to 2a except I grab hold of the screw from the end with long pliers and bend as need.

Very often these screws are bend in multiple planes which is why you straighten, rotate, straighten, rotate.

3. Make sure the threads are very clean.

4. Unscrew.

If the bend is very severe I just hack them off flush with a Dremel.

And $8.00 is highway robbery for dropout screws....I don't know of a cheaper source so what's there to do?

I'm sure there's a hardware store solution for the screws. The only downside, is you don't get the cool caps.

Thanks,

That really helps. The good news is that the outer section has the bend, the inner looks OK.

I asked for these at my favorite LBS a few months ago. Last time I was in there, I asked about them and he pulled out a whole bagful--probably 100 pr. I think they cost me 14 pesos apiece (US$1.10). Campagnolo. Of course the shipping would drive the price right up. I'll try and remember to grab some before my next trip north.

I am thinking that the correct tap size for Campy is M3 .5 pitch - is this correct?

The vast majority of dropout adjusters are standard 3.0mm x 0.5mm thread. If the original bolts still have their caps, just transfer them over.

If it's Italian, you'll want the originals, dark screw with chrome knurled nut. I got some from Bicycle Classics, and I think I've seen them listed by Mike Kone's Boulder Bicycle/ReneHerse.

Both types are meant to have the slotted head and the spring in the dropout slot. The wing nut or knurled nut should stick out the back of the drop-out. If either one falls off it doesn't matter very much.

I think they were made in two diameters, so take a mike or a caliper and check what you have. Certainly there were several lengths.

Shape of the bolt head is a question, as well. The old ones were slotted fillister head.

I once loosened a bent Campy set using MiamiJim's method and then just force turned the remaining part of it, with lube. The dropout threading survived admirably.

I found good replicas of the original old ones with the knurled acorn nut and dark threaded rod from my LBS (American Cyclery in SF). They are pretty much identical to what was used with Campy 1010 rear dropouts from the 70's. Couldn't tell the difference after I mounted them on my bike.

for all I know, those replicas could be what Kone and Greg Parker are selling.

Hoard them like they are gasoline and you are in Mad Max.

+1. These screws tend to be pretty soft and will bend with pliers. I wouldn't reuse them, however.