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Help point me in the right direction
Ok so I used to have a 81 Conti, and I loved the way it rode. I could sit on that thing for hours and never get sore. However it was a limp as a wet noodle when mashing the pedals and like dragging 4 more bikes behind me in weight. So basically not very fast or efficient with power. I personally love the look of old steel bikes, and although I haven't ridden any of a higher caliber non-stove pipe steel then the Conti and my dads old whatever-it-was Schwinn, I'd imagine they are probably pretty nice.
Here is my question to the gurus of C&V, I don't mind a project (ie get a frame and build it over the next year or so) but I'd like to get something in the next few months as I have aspirations of doing a spring tri by years end. Should I spend the dollars on something newer with a complete bike, and find a solid classic chrome-moly frame and build that over time (with newer component technology)? Or drop the money on something vintage that is already done? I really like integrated shifters so I am leaning more towards new bike and build an old frame, but with my limited (but ever expanding because of this part of BF) knowledge of classic road bikes I am not sure I am making the best decision. Could I get something that needs some newer components that would be as responsive and close in weight to a newer road bike (barring carbon frames). Advice, comments, experiences and opinions welcome. |
Find an early 90's steel road bike that fits you well (might have to search a bit to find a steel one of that era). Look for 8 speed shimano. Then simply order some Campagnolo Veloce shift/brake levers and do a straight conversion (replacing cables at the same time), as the 10 speed campy shift ratio will shift the Shimano 8 speed rear end perfectly. Probably looking at $300-500 for a nicer road bike of that era in ready to ride condition, then another $130 or so on the integrated shifters. Original 7 speed wheels generally won't handle 8 speed cassettes, but you can go from 9 to 8 easily.
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Yes you can get a fairly nice luggled steel road bike from the late 80's to early 90's with 130 spacing then put put pretty much anything you want on it components wise from basic vintage 7/8 speed downtube up to 10/11 speed campy Brifters fairly easily. There is world of options on this type build.
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CM, I'd want to look for the brands of tubing that were referenced in the 'newb" question thread on here right? It was basically showing decals on the seat tube and the companies that made the tubing. And the Campy levers you mentioned were originally 9 speed (if I am understanding you correctly)?
And any brands to avoid or lookout for? |
IMO the tubing on a bike is just part of the overall quality spec. Since the frame is the central component, it's pretty important to get something decent if not high end. For example, if you look at the columbus charts, there's really very little difference between alle or cromor vs their high end internally splined stuff. Don't let seamed tubing bother you. So, I would seek out the high end stuff, but wouldn't shy away from Reynolds 501, Columbus cromor/alle, Tange 2, etc. Ishiwata 022 is also in that same league. Reynolds 531, Columbus SL/SLX, and possibly Tange 1 could be considered an upgrade from the first list, but only if you're a light and strong rider. The type of frame build will be more impactful than materials. That is, do you want a short wheelbase, steep steering, uber responsive crit bike; or a more relaxed rider like a trek 630. I guess in your situation I'd try to find something in the sporty if not racy category, as a tourer would have longer stays and feel more flexy under power. Seek out the mid/high side of good brands, as these sometimes come for fewer $'s (Univegas, Japan built Schwinns, Centurions, Fuji's, early specialized steel roadies, some of the 400-600 series
treks, etc). Most of the sets listed within the table posted in this thread are nice riding if built up properly. http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...or-entire-bike Think of less than uber high end tubing as a small compromise, and save your upgrade $'s for the right tires, brifters and a nice wheelset. Not that there's really any reason not to ride the snot out of it as is, before you upgrade anything. Maybe find a few examples and add to the thread in terms of "is this a good bike", not "is this worth the price". The ladder will probably get the thread moved to appraisal section. Good luck, have fun. |
Originally Posted by Chitown_Mike
(Post 16420521)
Ok so I used to have a 81 Conti, and I loved the way it rode. I could sit on that thing for hours and never get sore. However it was a limp as a wet noodle when mashing the pedals and like dragging 4 more bikes behind me in weight. So basically not very fast or efficient with power. I personally love the look of old steel bikes, and although I haven't ridden any of a higher caliber non-stove pipe steel then the Conti and my dads old whatever-it-was Schwinn, I'd imagine they are probably pretty nice.
Here is my question to the gurus of C&V, I don't mind a project (ie get a frame and build it over the next year or so) but I'd like to get something in the next few months as I have aspirations of doing a spring tri by years end. Should I spend the dollars on something newer with a complete bike, and find a solid classic chrome-moly frame and build that over time (with newer component technology)? Or drop the money on something vintage that is already done? I really like integrated shifters so I am leaning more towards new bike and build an old frame, but with my limited (but ever expanding because of this part of BF) knowledge of classic road bikes I am not sure I am making the best decision. Could I get something that needs some newer components that would be as responsive and close in weight to a newer road bike (barring carbon frames). Advice, comments, experiences and opinions welcome. |
West.
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Originally Posted by jj1091
(Post 16421131)
I'd lean towards building up a vintage bike. It really takes little time and you can always build one for much less than the cost of a new bike, as everyone here will tell you. But, it seems that none of us are happy with any single bike, and have multiple bikes. I'd sell the Conti and use that money to start your build (since you don't like its performance anyway).
Thanks for the tips and info so far, currently standing in line early to get into a local bike swap. Might score the frame today who knows. |
I dump colossal amounts of money to throw at bikes to make them perfect. But none of them are as perfect as I want them to be.
My advice is to find something as close to what you want, and get that. Don't shortcut yourself, don't get too out of your head crazy about it. Hanging out here can drive you bonkers. Then you start trolling eBay. Next thing you know you're broke with a basement full of parts that you fully intend to use, but are probably going to sit for a long time. *sigh* |
Can you post pictures of the Conti? I bought one for my daughter, and it's the only one I've seen.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...o/IMG_3851.JPG |
Originally Posted by Chitown_Mike
(Post 16421237)
I wish I could sell the Conti....but in its current pretzel shape not many people would buy it lol. I backed into it a few months back so starting fresh.
Thanks for the tips and info so far, currently standing in line early to get into a local bike swap. Might score the frame today who knows. Just a thought, but you might try some local salvage yards, that's where I picked up the Fuji frame. 25 bucks. Then I went back that afternoon and got an original Schwinn Traveler missing only one wheel, with all original components, for 20 bucks. Craigslist and Ebay have their place, but I start out at flea markets and salvage yards. A whole lot cheaper. |
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