Help point me in the right direction
#1
Thread Starter
That guy from the Chi
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 3
From: Chicago
Bikes: 88 Trek 800 - gone to new cheeks; '14 Trek 1.2 - aka The X1 Advanced; '13 Trek 3500 Disc
Help point me in the right direction
Ok so I used to have a 81 Conti, and I loved the way it rode. I could sit on that thing for hours and never get sore. However it was a limp as a wet noodle when mashing the pedals and like dragging 4 more bikes behind me in weight. So basically not very fast or efficient with power. I personally love the look of old steel bikes, and although I haven't ridden any of a higher caliber non-stove pipe steel then the Conti and my dads old whatever-it-was Schwinn, I'd imagine they are probably pretty nice.
Here is my question to the gurus of C&V, I don't mind a project (ie get a frame and build it over the next year or so) but I'd like to get something in the next few months as I have aspirations of doing a spring tri by years end. Should I spend the dollars on something newer with a complete bike, and find a solid classic chrome-moly frame and build that over time (with newer component technology)? Or drop the money on something vintage that is already done?
I really like integrated shifters so I am leaning more towards new bike and build an old frame, but with my limited (but ever expanding because of this part of BF) knowledge of classic road bikes I am not sure I am making the best decision. Could I get something that needs some newer components that would be as responsive and close in weight to a newer road bike (barring carbon frames).
Advice, comments, experiences and opinions welcome.
Here is my question to the gurus of C&V, I don't mind a project (ie get a frame and build it over the next year or so) but I'd like to get something in the next few months as I have aspirations of doing a spring tri by years end. Should I spend the dollars on something newer with a complete bike, and find a solid classic chrome-moly frame and build that over time (with newer component technology)? Or drop the money on something vintage that is already done?
I really like integrated shifters so I am leaning more towards new bike and build an old frame, but with my limited (but ever expanding because of this part of BF) knowledge of classic road bikes I am not sure I am making the best decision. Could I get something that needs some newer components that would be as responsive and close in weight to a newer road bike (barring carbon frames).
Advice, comments, experiences and opinions welcome.
#2
Find an early 90's steel road bike that fits you well (might have to search a bit to find a steel one of that era). Look for 8 speed shimano. Then simply order some Campagnolo Veloce shift/brake levers and do a straight conversion (replacing cables at the same time), as the 10 speed campy shift ratio will shift the Shimano 8 speed rear end perfectly. Probably looking at $300-500 for a nicer road bike of that era in ready to ride condition, then another $130 or so on the integrated shifters. Original 7 speed wheels generally won't handle 8 speed cassettes, but you can go from 9 to 8 easily.
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 10,043
Likes: 2,505
From: Fairplay Co
Bikes: Current 79 Nishiki Custum Sport, Jeunet 620, notable previous bikes P.K. Ripper loop tail, Kawahara Laser Lite, Paramount Track full chrome, Raliegh Internatioanl, Motobecan Super Mirage. 59 Crown royak 3 speed
Yes you can get a fairly nice luggled steel road bike from the late 80's to early 90's with 130 spacing then put put pretty much anything you want on it components wise from basic vintage 7/8 speed downtube up to 10/11 speed campy Brifters fairly easily. There is world of options on this type build.
#4
Thread Starter
That guy from the Chi
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 3
From: Chicago
Bikes: 88 Trek 800 - gone to new cheeks; '14 Trek 1.2 - aka The X1 Advanced; '13 Trek 3500 Disc
CM, I'd want to look for the brands of tubing that were referenced in the 'newb" question thread on here right? It was basically showing decals on the seat tube and the companies that made the tubing. And the Campy levers you mentioned were originally 9 speed (if I am understanding you correctly)?
And any brands to avoid or lookout for?
And any brands to avoid or lookout for?
#5
IMO the tubing on a bike is just part of the overall quality spec. Since the frame is the central component, it's pretty important to get something decent if not high end. For example, if you look at the columbus charts, there's really very little difference between alle or cromor vs their high end internally splined stuff. Don't let seamed tubing bother you. So, I would seek out the high end stuff, but wouldn't shy away from Reynolds 501, Columbus cromor/alle, Tange 2, etc. Ishiwata 022 is also in that same league. Reynolds 531, Columbus SL/SLX, and possibly Tange 1 could be considered an upgrade from the first list, but only if you're a light and strong rider. The type of frame build will be more impactful than materials. That is, do you want a short wheelbase, steep steering, uber responsive crit bike; or a more relaxed rider like a trek 630. I guess in your situation I'd try to find something in the sporty if not racy category, as a tourer would have longer stays and feel more flexy under power. Seek out the mid/high side of good brands, as these sometimes come for fewer $'s (Univegas, Japan built Schwinns, Centurions, Fuji's, early specialized steel roadies, some of the 400-600 series
treks, etc).
Most of the sets listed within the table posted in this thread are nice riding if built up properly.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...or-entire-bike
Think of less than uber high end tubing as a small compromise, and save your upgrade $'s for the right tires, brifters and a nice wheelset. Not that there's really any reason not to ride the snot out of it as is, before you upgrade anything. Maybe find a few examples and add to the thread in terms of "is this a good bike", not "is this worth the price". The ladder will probably get the thread moved to appraisal section. Good luck, have fun.
treks, etc).
Most of the sets listed within the table posted in this thread are nice riding if built up properly.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...or-entire-bike
Think of less than uber high end tubing as a small compromise, and save your upgrade $'s for the right tires, brifters and a nice wheelset. Not that there's really any reason not to ride the snot out of it as is, before you upgrade anything. Maybe find a few examples and add to the thread in terms of "is this a good bike", not "is this worth the price". The ladder will probably get the thread moved to appraisal section. Good luck, have fun.
Last edited by Chrome Molly; 01-18-14 at 06:03 AM.
#6
Mike J
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 9
From: Jacksonville Florida
Bikes: 1975 Peugeot PX-50L, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1974 Peugeot PX-8
Ok so I used to have a 81 Conti, and I loved the way it rode. I could sit on that thing for hours and never get sore. However it was a limp as a wet noodle when mashing the pedals and like dragging 4 more bikes behind me in weight. So basically not very fast or efficient with power. I personally love the look of old steel bikes, and although I haven't ridden any of a higher caliber non-stove pipe steel then the Conti and my dads old whatever-it-was Schwinn, I'd imagine they are probably pretty nice.
Here is my question to the gurus of C&V, I don't mind a project (ie get a frame and build it over the next year or so) but I'd like to get something in the next few months as I have aspirations of doing a spring tri by years end. Should I spend the dollars on something newer with a complete bike, and find a solid classic chrome-moly frame and build that over time (with newer component technology)? Or drop the money on something vintage that is already done?
I really like integrated shifters so I am leaning more towards new bike and build an old frame, but with my limited (but ever expanding because of this part of BF) knowledge of classic road bikes I am not sure I am making the best decision. Could I get something that needs some newer components that would be as responsive and close in weight to a newer road bike (barring carbon frames).
Advice, comments, experiences and opinions welcome.
Here is my question to the gurus of C&V, I don't mind a project (ie get a frame and build it over the next year or so) but I'd like to get something in the next few months as I have aspirations of doing a spring tri by years end. Should I spend the dollars on something newer with a complete bike, and find a solid classic chrome-moly frame and build that over time (with newer component technology)? Or drop the money on something vintage that is already done?
I really like integrated shifters so I am leaning more towards new bike and build an old frame, but with my limited (but ever expanding because of this part of BF) knowledge of classic road bikes I am not sure I am making the best decision. Could I get something that needs some newer components that would be as responsive and close in weight to a newer road bike (barring carbon frames).
Advice, comments, experiences and opinions welcome.
#8
Thread Starter
That guy from the Chi
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 3
From: Chicago
Bikes: 88 Trek 800 - gone to new cheeks; '14 Trek 1.2 - aka The X1 Advanced; '13 Trek 3500 Disc
I'd lean towards building up a vintage bike. It really takes little time and you can always build one for much less than the cost of a new bike, as everyone here will tell you. But, it seems that none of us are happy with any single bike, and have multiple bikes. I'd sell the Conti and use that money to start your build (since you don't like its performance anyway).
Thanks for the tips and info so far, currently standing in line early to get into a local bike swap. Might score the frame today who knows.
#9
Extraordinary Magnitude


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 14,081
Likes: 2,135
From: Waukesha WI
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
I dump colossal amounts of money to throw at bikes to make them perfect. But none of them are as perfect as I want them to be.
My advice is to find something as close to what you want, and get that. Don't shortcut yourself, don't get too out of your head crazy about it. Hanging out here can drive you bonkers. Then you start trolling eBay. Next thing you know you're broke with a basement full of parts that you fully intend to use, but are probably going to sit for a long time.
*sigh*
My advice is to find something as close to what you want, and get that. Don't shortcut yourself, don't get too out of your head crazy about it. Hanging out here can drive you bonkers. Then you start trolling eBay. Next thing you know you're broke with a basement full of parts that you fully intend to use, but are probably going to sit for a long time.
*sigh*
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#10
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,180
Likes: 6,418
From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Can you post pictures of the Conti? I bought one for my daughter, and it's the only one I've seen.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#11
Mike J
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 9
From: Jacksonville Florida
Bikes: 1975 Peugeot PX-50L, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1974 Peugeot PX-8
I wish I could sell the Conti....but in its current pretzel shape not many people would buy it lol. I backed into it a few months back so starting fresh.
Thanks for the tips and info so far, currently standing in line early to get into a local bike swap. Might score the frame today who knows.
Thanks for the tips and info so far, currently standing in line early to get into a local bike swap. Might score the frame today who knows.
Just a thought, but you might try some local salvage yards, that's where I picked up the Fuji frame. 25 bucks. Then I went back that afternoon and got an original Schwinn Traveler missing only one wheel, with all original components, for 20 bucks. Craigslist and Ebay have their place, but I start out at flea markets and salvage yards. A whole lot cheaper.
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