I just bought this frame on Ebay, and was wondering if anyone can tell me the year or model:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/used-old-vin...p2047675.l2557

It seems somewhat unusual compared to other Grubbs that I have seen in that the pump pegs are under the top tube. The dropouts are 118mm, so it seems the frame would be from 1954-58, when that was common. The frame number appears to be 16324.

I think you got a pretty good deal! The Nervex lugs and single shifter boss definitely agrees with the 54-58 date, but it could be later.

It looks a lot like this 'Routier' frame:

Thanks for the good word, RHM! I am very pleased about this purchase. My Raleigh Grand Prix was stolen in 1985, and since then, I have been riding mostly aluminum. Although it was very nice to be riding light, I always missed the ride of steel.
The Routier model does look similar, although two things are different on mine: a.) the single-color paint job and b.) the decals on the seat tube.
I guess I mostly wanted to ascertain the year of the frame because I just spent $50.00 on a F. H. Grubb head badge, but it appears I bought the "newer" one, with the crossed flags.
I'm going to go with a 4-speed freewheel, double crankset and "suicide" shifter! It's time for me to join the 20th century!



I think you got a pretty good deal! The Nervex lugs and single shifter boss definitely agrees with the 54-58 date, but it could be later.

It looks a lot like this 'Routier' frame:

[/QUOTE]

Right brake lever pulling front brakes... hmm...

What's wrong with that?

Paul,

Glad you landed the Grubb! The price turned out to be very nice. There is a way to build a 4 speed freewheel from either an old Atom, Maillard, or Regina body and I can help with one. Finding an original 4 speed one could be spendy, so consider this to be a temporary work around. Can't wait to see it built up and hopefully in person.

Hello again, Bob! I wanted to break the good news to you, but I see you have already broken this story wide open! That is interesting that you can take a five-speed freewheel and make it a four. I have done a preliminary search for a 118mm rear hub, but have found nothing so far. (I remember you said I could use a 120, but I don't know what's involved).
I can't wait to be back on a steel bicycle again.
I am having it painted a dark blue prismatic with small metal flakes. I am going to hand-paint the lugs white. I might not paint the fork crown.
This is whole new world to me: I didn't think I'd soon get around to restoring a classic British frame. When I saw the price on this one, I jumped, but didn't really think I'd get it without a fight. I was wrong. I was up at 3:00 this morning, when the auction ended, ready to fend off all the savage competition from here and abroad! I know it may not be Grubb's top-of-the-line, but I am glad to own my piece of cycling history.





Paul,

Glad you landed the Grubb! The price turned out to be very nice. There is a way to build a 4 speed freewheel from either an old Atom, Maillard, or Regina body and I can help with one. Finding an original 4 speed one could be spendy, so consider this to be a temporary work around. Can't wait to see it built up and hopefully in person.[/QUOTE]

Nothing at all.

I agree, Grand. I tend to "lean" on my left hand and let my right one "float", so I'd rather have the rear brake over on the left side.

That was a good call, The G:
I hadn't even noticed that the brake arrangement was
reversed, in contrast to what is usually done currently.

What's wrong with it, obviously, is that it means you use a brake that has the cable mount on the wrong* side, which means a low end* brake.



*definitions:
right: the way Campagnolo does it.
wrong: the other way.
high end components: the ones marked "Campagnolo."
mid-range components: the ones that imitate the ones marked "Campagnolo."
low end components: the ones that don't even try to pretend.

Congrats! Nice buy.

Funny--- comments of the brakes. Some of us are used to it with two wheelers and a motor. And those Brit's still drive on the wrong side but say's who?

More: Ever try a bike with a single lever operating both front and rear brakes?

I'm always looking for wrong-sided brakes for use on a frame that originally had center pulls and has the stops on the wrong side of the top tube. I'm making do with Tektro 800s. They work fine, but I'd prefer vintage. I could use center pulls, but that would be too easy.

In case you're confused, some of us are talking about the wrong-sided calipers and others are talking about the right lever operating the front brake. One can easily be changed and the other cannot.

Thanks, Crank. I appreciate it.
A lever that controls both front and back?
Wow. That's got to have some stopping power.
Back to steel brake calipers, quill stems, cottered
cranks and toe clips! What a surprise. This is
amazing. I really wasn't expecting this to happen.
The painter quoted a price of about $400, but he is
also going to clean it and polish the chrome.
He has assured me that the frame and forks will look
"sick" when the set is done. That's nothing to sneeze
at!




Congrats! Nice buy.

Funny--- comments of the brakes. Some of us are used to it with two wheelers and a motor. And those Brit's still drive on the wrong side but say's who?

More: Ever try a bike with a single lever operating both front and rear brakes?[/QUOTE]

That's how I do it. Many others do, too.

Most of my bikes are set up with right hand front brakes. Too many years riding motorcycles and I'm too lazy to unlearn it now.

The right sided front brake is a British thing. The theory being that if you are on the left side of the road and hand-signalling to turn right, your left hand is on the rear brake for safer braking. A lot of my friends in the North of England had Grubbs like that one...I had a Clements. Enjoy the ride

Ditto... most of my bikes are set up that way.

Aaron