RobbieTunes

Sounds like you have a burr or something at the bottom of the slot. Mine took a 27.2 with no problem.
A small engine shop could hone it out smooth in a few minutes, and probably for a very reasonable price.

jet sanchEz

I had a burr in the seat tube of my Tommasini, I just found it with my finger and used a rounded file to smooth it out.

triggahiccups

Would a burr cause the seatpost to suddenly stop but still allow me twisting the seatpost? I can continue to wedge the seatpost in but once it gets more and more stuck until I can hardly twist it at all to take it back out. I will degrease and take a much closer look this weekend.

SJX426 

Buy a brake cyclinder hone and run it in the tube. Some may come with different stones for material removal aggressiveness. May take a little longer to wear the high spot down but better a little at a time than to much to fast!

triggahiccups

So I put power torque cups on the frame and the instructions that came with the crank say to make sure there is a hole for draining water. I'm guessing I need to have this done? Is it bad form to mess with an old frame in such a way?

movingmountain

I just bought one today. I think it's maybe a 86? He thought it was a '90s he couldn't remember. He had bought it new. It's red, has double chrome chain stays, slx sticker,super prestige eddy sticker, cineli de rosa stem, everything else full campy record?blue sapphire? brakes. Don't know much about it. The guy I got it from was a customer of mine that used to race He can't ride any more, cancer. I've been riding only mountain bikes since the mid eighties I saw he had a few vintage rode bikes in his garage. I told him I was thinking about riding road bikes again and had just test rode a carbon fuji. He said he give me a deal on one of his bikes. $600 later it's mine We are about the same height. it's been sitting in his garage for six years I'm cleaning it up right now paint looks good, a few paint chips, all the decals intacked,no rust,chrome cleaning right up. I test rode it for a few minutes, wheels true, shifts pretty clean, tires wouldn't hold air. Pick up some tubes and tires going to lube it up give a minor tune put some pedals on it and take it for a spin tomorrow I think I got pretty good deal. I don't really know. It doesn't really matter. I always thought red De Rosa's are damn sexy. If anybody got any info of what I have or how to tell age which gruppo? be much appreciated . Thanks

RobbieTunes

Try reading this entire thread. Should provide some info.

RobbieTunes

If it didn't need them before, I can see no reason why it would need them now.

triggahiccups

Okay cool. So I cleaned out the seat tube and I don't feel anything extruding, there is some paint in spots but other than that it looks clean. I will file away the paint and see if it fits better. ALSO, my LBS sold me Fulcrum Racing Torq BB cups stating that campy owns fulcrum and therefore the cups are the same or whatever. Anyways I have I Power Torque crank and it's well greased and I tighten it all the way until it wont budge and there is still a little wiggle action going on. Am I missing something? I see online about the Fulcrum cups... "Compatible with Fulcrum RRS chainset with CULT bearing" and the campy website states "requires POWERTORQUE™ BB cups." I'm thinking the dude at my LBS was wrong?

RobbieTunes

Any washers or parts left over? With the Campy cups, you get a little plastic bag with two washers in it. They may actually be what takes up the "wiggle" space, but I lost the instructions and sold the group, so I'm simply not sure.

jiangshi

Aren't Fulcrum Ultra torque compatible, not Power torque?

Chombi

It is also possible that your seat tube might have been slightly distorted from round at one time by a service stand clamp. This could very well cause your seatpost to hang up in the seat tube. Try shining a light up on the seat tube surface to check if the tube is dented in where you think the seatpost hangs up

triggahiccups

The cups came with one wavy little washer. Like this except mine doesn't say "Ultra Torque Only"...


I'm guessing now that they are still meant for Ultra Torque, oh balls.

jiangshi

You need Power Torque cups, not Ultra Torque. They are not interchangeable.

RobbieTunes

At least they're not expensive.

triggahiccups

So I have to thank @SJX426 for the tip. I bought a small cylinder hone and it cleaned up the inside of the tube quick! I didn't even use a drill, just tested the waters by twisting it by hand and it worked perfectly. After re-greasing, the seatpost is in with only minimal resistance. Now I just have to pay to have a shop take my crank off as holy sh*t you need a lot of tools that I don't have to get the arm off. Anyone need ultra torque cups?

RobbieTunes

send me the bike and I'll send the crank arm back to you...

triggahiccups

Send me the tools and I will send the tools back to you

jiangshi

From a simple Google search:

Extractor: T & E Tools 1 ton 2 jaw puller model J1020 available for $24 on Amazon via Apex Tool Co. This small simple tool seems like it was specifically designed to remove PT crankarms. It's easily available in the US, self centering, self grasping, chisel point heads to fit in the narrow area behind the crankarm and is small enough to fit in my standard bike tool box. Plus it does not mar carbon arms and can be modified/extended to pull the PT right crankarm bearing down the road.

Plug: Using small socket with lip that fits securely into the PT fixing bolt (you could also use a strong washer or everyday socket extender). Campy sells a uber expensive plug but it's not needed - unless you have Campy fetish.

Steps:
1) Back out the fixing bolt a few turns to give the crankarm room to move.
2) Slide socket into the fixing bolt
3) Install and snug up the extractor making sure it is straight and aligned.
4) Tighten extractor screw with adjustable wrench till crankarm moves out close to fixing bolt.
5) Remove extractor, socket, fixing bolt and then pull crankarm fully off.

RobbieTunes

I think I had that on a thread, earlier, but not so clear and succinct. Concise, you might say.

triggahiccups

I figured tools exist that I can buy that aren't $60 but I was trying to avoid purchasing them myself as I'm not sure I would use them often enough to justify it and I was hoping it would be cheap to just have a shop do it. Unfortunately, the 3 closest LBS's to me don't have a them or were totally clueless when I meantioned Power Torque, figures.

RobbieTunes

I think $60 would do it. The "standard" external BB cup tool works, 30 seconds at any LBS. A gear puller is $15-$25, which any LBS should have, and the allen wrench, as well. It took me about 15 minutes, which should be about $20 at an LBS. Try to find the oldest wrench in there. This is not Campy-specific labor, it's common sense. If you shop has a question, refer them to BF C&V or they can call me.

triggahiccups

Yeah, I'm just gonna buy the $30 one mentioned earlier (I already have a socket that will work perfectly as a plug) and add to my (growing) collection of tools that I never use. I'm guessing I will need it again someday...

triggahiccups

Final update, here's some pre-ride/pre-final adjustment photos.