Crank spindle length help
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2
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Crank spindle length help
First post, and I'm desperate for help on this issue.
I'm restoring a 1770-71'ish Peugeot Mixte with my GF and we ended up getting these Peugeot branded cranks to upgrade from the crappy cottered cranks that it came with. They are Japan stamped on the back of the crank arm.
It's a French threaded BB, and I'm probably going to purchase one from VeloOrange, but I'm unsure of what spindle length to get. Should I just measure the one that came with the cottered cranks and go off of that? Also, does any one know if these cranks are an ISO or JIS taper?
I really want to nail the spindle length on the first try. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I can't find info on these cranks anywhere online!
I'm restoring a 1770-71'ish Peugeot Mixte with my GF and we ended up getting these Peugeot branded cranks to upgrade from the crappy cottered cranks that it came with. They are Japan stamped on the back of the crank arm.
It's a French threaded BB, and I'm probably going to purchase one from VeloOrange, but I'm unsure of what spindle length to get. Should I just measure the one that came with the cottered cranks and go off of that? Also, does any one know if these cranks are an ISO or JIS taper?
I really want to nail the spindle length on the first try. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I can't find info on these cranks anywhere online!
#2
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,404
Likes: 5,339
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
That's a Peugeot-branded Stronglight crank, so closer to JIS than ISO. Post-1982 production, so it will use a standard 22mm extractor. You're unlikely to get any useful information from measuring your cottered axle. Perhaps Velo-Orange knows what will work?
#3
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2014
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VeloOrange wasn't much help either, unfortunately.
#4
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,404
Likes: 5,339
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
If they're stamped Japan, they're probably Sakae Ringyo. Also JIS. If really "want to nail the spindle length on the first try," err on the side of too long. That way you should avoid clearance issues, anyway. My experience with converting cottered to cotterless involves sitting down with a big bucket of spindles and trying each one until I find the best fit.
#5
curmudgineer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,417
Likes: 113
From: Chicago SW burbs
Bikes: 2 many 2 fit here
Some (maybe most) spindles are unequal length on either side of the bearing races, so that would give you a 2fer using the trial and error method in those cases.
I have one triple crankset that actually lines up better using the shorter end of the original spindle, on the two bikes I've tried it on so far. The slight extra length on the non-drive-side was not an issue, in either case.
I have one triple crankset that actually lines up better using the shorter end of the original spindle, on the two bikes I've tried it on so far. The slight extra length on the non-drive-side was not an issue, in either case.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,128
Likes: 39
Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
Most Stronglight cotterless, double cranksets from the late 70's and through the 80's worked well with 118mm legnth non-symmetrical spindles.
I believe Sheldon Brown agrees on his crankset/spindle tables on his site..
I believe Sheldon Brown agrees on his crankset/spindle tables on his site..





