Converting to vbrakes to accommodate a nitto bosco bar. something like this-



Heard that '83 miyata 610's they don't play nice something about not relying on a pin? Currently on 27" rims, converting next year to 700c wheelset running a Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires tops.


what modern vbrake models & mtb style levers work on this touring miyata?

I can answer part of your question as I looked at an '83 610 just the other day. The canti springs on the '83 are externally coiled. If I was looking at it right and remember correctly, the fork side of the coil didn't actually go into a hole in a tab at the base of the fork mount, but maybe just interated somehow with the fork mount or the fork itself. The later version canti brakes, of course, had/have an internal circular coil with two 90 degree bends, one inserting into a hole in the brake housing and the other inserting into a hole in a tab integral to the canti post on the fork. Below is a pick from velobase



Afraid I can't answer your questions re a modern recommendation.

You really only need a $5 HS mounted cable stop. I have a 1984, it has a pin style canti caliper, with appropriate braze on with a hole for the spring.

I think your only concern, as far as the bike goes, is making sure that the canti mounts have the holes to mount the spring to. Make sure your brake pads will be able to hit the rim and make sure to use V-Brake levers.

As I understand, you'll need levers designed for V-Brakes because the cable pull is different.

BTW, there are different brake levers for V-brake and cantilever brakes; the two styles have different cable pulls. Both levers are available in MTB (22.2 mm) dimensions.

What I'm saying is you can keep the OE cantilever brakes with the Bosco bar, you just have to find the correct brake levers.

I'd recommend keeping the original canti brakes and getting canti-compatible levers:

1) It's cheaper- you just need the levers.
2) It looks more classic (IMO)
3) Might be hard to find V-brakes that are compatible with the narrow spacing (55 front and 65 mm rear) of the existing canti studs. V-brakes are made for MTB's (and modern touring bikes) with wider stud spacing.

to one of the posters that missed in the original post: 83' = 1983

I think cycle_maven is on the right track- just get some koolstop's and good to go. (read about when cantis fail they lock the tire up)

BUT if/when I swap over to 700c/25mm rims think I will have big clearance issues?

Having fixed up a Miyata 610 from a couple years later ('86 I think), I know that bike would not have worked with v-brakes or most newer cantis as the stud spacing was unfortunately too close. Shouldn't be a problem switching to 700c wheels though.

[MENTION=345935]reg[/MENTION], An unrelated question. What's with the multiple spacers in the headset configuration? Is the steerer tube really that long?

Cantis are so much more graceful. V-Brakes are kind of cloddy looking, but outrageously effective.

No idea- just ripped the image off the Riv site to give idea what I am trying to do.

Yes, the steerer is really that long. It's a way to get the bars up high without too much unsupported quill. It's a common practice at Rivendell.

About canti's failing- it's only when the straddle cable pops loose somehow that it can catch in the tread of the tire. Broken brake cable or something like that. You can solve that by adding fenders, or adding reflectors or adding racks so the straddle cables can't drop onto the tires. At least the front- the back tire locking up won't send you over the handlebars. It doesn't happen very often though.

Wow. It's butt ugly. My opinion, of course, but it looks like a clumsy, inelegant kludge by a newbie.

-obviously less the dumb spacers- just the normal quill and handlebars.

This is c&v we hate thread less and spacers.

I guess you like the looks of some extra spacers about as much as I like the looks of linear pull brakes on a road bike.